Anyone have direct port on a hr engine planning to do a direct port
11-14-2012, 12:29 PM
#21
I don't know it all. but what I do post is from experience. I do believe my time slips speak for my setups. I started with a 50 dry shot and went to a wet shot and then to a 2 stage wet/dry shot and then to the direct port. I prefer simple setups and try to stay away from programmers/timers/window switches. etc. and after tuning on several dynos I do believe I have the dry direct port setup perfected.
several members have pmed me asking questions and have replied with argument. I'm more than happy to answer questions and provide help but don't ask if your gonna argue with the answer.
several members have pmed me asking questions and have replied with argument. I'm more than happy to answer questions and provide help but don't ask if your gonna argue with the answer.
Last edited by 2bad240; 11-14-2012 at 12:31 PM.
11-14-2012, 12:36 PM
#22
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I don't know it all. but what I do post is from experience. I do believe my time slips speak for my setups. I started with a 50 dry shot and went to a wet shot and then to a 2 stage wet/dry shot and then to the direct port. I prefer simple setups and try to stay away from programmers/timers/window switches. etc. and after tuning on several dynos I do believe I have the dry direct port setup perfected.
several members have pmed me asking questions and have replied with argument. I'm more than happy to answer questions and provide help but don't ask if your gonna argue with the answer.
several members have pmed me asking questions and have replied with argument. I'm more than happy to answer questions and provide help but don't ask if your gonna argue with the answer.
11-14-2012, 09:09 PM
#23
how about i let you in on a little secret, ITS A ENGINE, people just dont seem to get it they argued before "but its a 350z your wrong the engines magical and dosnt like boost" well guess what what i said worked like i knew it would and the same applies here. honda, nissan, I4,I6, v6, v8, w16 they are all engines and all operate on the same exact principles. show me someone who had a nitrous backfire with a wetshot because you show me that and ill show you guarantee where he was trying to spray too low or screwed up the install somehow. the vq35 is 97% volumetric efficient thats why the de respond so little to add ons, even the hr the only reason it responds better is because it revs higher(its not really responding better its responding the same just at a higher rpm so it makes it seem like it is) spray above 3k and you will not have a nitrous backfire unless you screwed something up.
cubano like i said if your solenoid has failed you either got a used one that was abused, a new one from a crap china company, or you/whoever you paid screwed up the install and its probably a loose wire. you say YOU have never seen an injector fail but unlike you i have built many engines, worked on many many more then that and watched 10 times that number ive seen, worked on, or built at LEAST 400 nitrous engines and ive NEVER seen a solenoid just fail i think ive seen 2 fail and bother where the operator/installer(both where loose crimp connections) in that same time ive seen more injectors fail then ive seen nitrous engines. just because YOU are lucky dosnt mean thats normal you have a much higher chance of a injector failing then a solenoid. since you dint know the difference between a radial and bias ply tire im hoping you did not do the install yourself because if you did thats likely the problem right there.
if you actually had read my post though you would see that TWO of the stages on the outlaw 10.5 cars are 300 hp single nozzle wet shots, if they arnt backfiring and blowing thing sheet metal intakes you wont either with 165 shot.
2bad might not like safety devices but thats on him they where made for a reason although timers and progressive controllers are honestly just to help traction most of the time, window switchs, wot switchs and spark retard are just to make sure you dont blow the engine
cubano like i said if your solenoid has failed you either got a used one that was abused, a new one from a crap china company, or you/whoever you paid screwed up the install and its probably a loose wire. you say YOU have never seen an injector fail but unlike you i have built many engines, worked on many many more then that and watched 10 times that number ive seen, worked on, or built at LEAST 400 nitrous engines and ive NEVER seen a solenoid just fail i think ive seen 2 fail and bother where the operator/installer(both where loose crimp connections) in that same time ive seen more injectors fail then ive seen nitrous engines. just because YOU are lucky dosnt mean thats normal you have a much higher chance of a injector failing then a solenoid. since you dint know the difference between a radial and bias ply tire im hoping you did not do the install yourself because if you did thats likely the problem right there.
if you actually had read my post though you would see that TWO of the stages on the outlaw 10.5 cars are 300 hp single nozzle wet shots, if they arnt backfiring and blowing thing sheet metal intakes you wont either with 165 shot.
2bad might not like safety devices but thats on him they where made for a reason although timers and progressive controllers are honestly just to help traction most of the time, window switchs, wot switchs and spark retard are just to make sure you dont blow the engine
Last edited by jerryd87; 11-14-2012 at 09:23 PM.
11-14-2012, 09:19 PM
#24
since your admitting you have no idea what your talking about how about you quit talking **** and actually listen to the people who have built and worked on more race cars then you have owned? the kits are different because of jet size and number of nozzles required. go look at a basic single nozzle wet system the only difference you are going to find is jet sizes and fuel adapters to tap into the fuel system. there are dry vs wet because a dry shot is perfectly fine under 50 hp, thats why 90% of dry kits only go to 50 hp out of the box but you can buy a 600 hp wet kit.
the mere fact that you suggest the same jets would work for every car just shows you know nothing on how a car generates power, the amount of power generated is greatly affected by the stroke of the engine alone(try to get 200 ft lbs of torque on a 6 inch wratched then try the same on a 24 inch breaker bar. same exact principle its not magic since some 4 cylinders have rather larger strokes also its just physics) thats not even touching volumetric efficiency nor rpm operating range. its nothing special about the engine its just physics, which dont care how many cylinders the engine is in nor what car it is in nitrous increases power by introducing a purer oxygen into the engine, 33% oxygen vs about 21% for the normal atmosphere.
bs on running dry easier on other cars that stupid you wont see high power dry kits except for a few places(such as one person who had space constraints and even then it would make most people nervous.) because its dangerous for the engine. i dont think wasting my time on you will help though you will be back in a couple months because you refused to listen and then tryed to piece some crap together yourself and blew your engine. then we will tell you we told you so
the mere fact that you suggest the same jets would work for every car just shows you know nothing on how a car generates power, the amount of power generated is greatly affected by the stroke of the engine alone(try to get 200 ft lbs of torque on a 6 inch wratched then try the same on a 24 inch breaker bar. same exact principle its not magic since some 4 cylinders have rather larger strokes also its just physics) thats not even touching volumetric efficiency nor rpm operating range. its nothing special about the engine its just physics, which dont care how many cylinders the engine is in nor what car it is in nitrous increases power by introducing a purer oxygen into the engine, 33% oxygen vs about 21% for the normal atmosphere.
bs on running dry easier on other cars that stupid you wont see high power dry kits except for a few places(such as one person who had space constraints and even then it would make most people nervous.) because its dangerous for the engine. i dont think wasting my time on you will help though you will be back in a couple months because you refused to listen and then tryed to piece some crap together yourself and blew your engine. then we will tell you we told you so
Never said I knew anything about Nitrous which I why I'm posting on the forum so please get off the other dudes nuts. This would be my first nitrous car to be honest so instead of buying parts and being pissed that I got not enough or too much I am educating myself.
Also my thread is talking about 150 2 stage and I'm trying to get a good feel for what's going to be better in the long run and it looks like DP. As you can see other have posted very fruitful info and others keep talking about their V8. If it was all the same then why are kits most of the time model specific? Why are there dry vs wet kits? If nitrous was the same all around then would only make one kit and make it cylinder specific (inline 4, inline 6, V6, V8 ect)
No one between this thread and mine has asked about 5 stage anything, at best 2 stage. Principal is not the same because on most set up for Z's you have to run a wet kit vs other cars you can use dry much easier. This is based on what I've read in these forums.
Also my thread is talking about 150 2 stage and I'm trying to get a good feel for what's going to be better in the long run and it looks like DP. As you can see other have posted very fruitful info and others keep talking about their V8. If it was all the same then why are kits most of the time model specific? Why are there dry vs wet kits? If nitrous was the same all around then would only make one kit and make it cylinder specific (inline 4, inline 6, V6, V8 ect)
No one between this thread and mine has asked about 5 stage anything, at best 2 stage. Principal is not the same because on most set up for Z's you have to run a wet kit vs other cars you can use dry much easier. This is based on what I've read in these forums.
11-15-2012, 01:54 AM
#25
my nitrous backfire happened at 7k rpm. and my setup was installed correctly. just the result of fuel pooling in the lower plenum as I stated before.
and I didn't go with the dry direct port due to space constraints I did it because adding the fuel with the injectors is much more precise than with wet nozzles. think about it I don't have a huge shot I'm spraying 6 25 shots. I'm actually thinking of running a two stage dry direct port setup when I get my other engine built which will consist of a custom set of nozzles very similar to wet nozzles. and ill run a 150 on wot switch and 100 on a rpm switch and all fuel will be added through the injectors.
and I do believe there is a member that copied my setup idea except with a wet shot so there is room for it.
and I didn't go with the dry direct port due to space constraints I did it because adding the fuel with the injectors is much more precise than with wet nozzles. think about it I don't have a huge shot I'm spraying 6 25 shots. I'm actually thinking of running a two stage dry direct port setup when I get my other engine built which will consist of a custom set of nozzles very similar to wet nozzles. and ill run a 150 on wot switch and 100 on a rpm switch and all fuel will be added through the injectors.
and I do believe there is a member that copied my setup idea except with a wet shot so there is room for it.
11-15-2012, 05:39 AM
#26
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since your admitting you have no idea what your talking about how about you quit talking **** and actually listen to the people who have built and worked on more race cars then you have owned? the kits are different because of jet size and number of nozzles required. go look at a basic single nozzle wet system the only difference you are going to find is jet sizes and fuel adapters to tap into the fuel system. there are dry vs wet because a dry shot is perfectly fine under 50 hp, thats why 90% of dry kits only go to 50 hp out of the box but you can buy a 600 hp wet kit.
the mere fact that you suggest the same jets would work for every car just shows you know nothing on how a car generates power, the amount of power generated is greatly affected by the stroke of the engine alone(try to get 200 ft lbs of torque on a 6 inch wratched then try the same on a 24 inch breaker bar. same exact principle its not magic since some 4 cylinders have rather larger strokes also its just physics) thats not even touching volumetric efficiency nor rpm operating range. its nothing special about the engine its just physics, which dont care how many cylinders the engine is in nor what car it is in nitrous increases power by introducing a purer oxygen into the engine, 33% oxygen vs about 21% for the normal atmosphere.
bs on running dry easier on other cars that stupid you wont see high power dry kits except for a few places(such as one person who had space constraints and even then it would make most people nervous.) because its dangerous for the engine. i dont think wasting my time on you will help though you will be back in a couple months because you refused to listen and then tryed to piece some crap together yourself and blew your engine. then we will tell you we told you so
the mere fact that you suggest the same jets would work for every car just shows you know nothing on how a car generates power, the amount of power generated is greatly affected by the stroke of the engine alone(try to get 200 ft lbs of torque on a 6 inch wratched then try the same on a 24 inch breaker bar. same exact principle its not magic since some 4 cylinders have rather larger strokes also its just physics) thats not even touching volumetric efficiency nor rpm operating range. its nothing special about the engine its just physics, which dont care how many cylinders the engine is in nor what car it is in nitrous increases power by introducing a purer oxygen into the engine, 33% oxygen vs about 21% for the normal atmosphere.
bs on running dry easier on other cars that stupid you wont see high power dry kits except for a few places(such as one person who had space constraints and even then it would make most people nervous.) because its dangerous for the engine. i dont think wasting my time on you will help though you will be back in a couple months because you refused to listen and then tryed to piece some crap together yourself and blew your engine. then we will tell you we told you so
Last edited by HarleyDobbs; 11-15-2012 at 05:43 AM.
11-15-2012, 08:09 PM
#27
i did in my last post here let me quote it again since your adhd kicking in.
the only difference between the kicks for different cars is jets, and guess what jackass your the one posting complete bs and trying to pass if off as truth. you have mentioned several times "this is a 350z not a v8" and repeatedly talk about how we dont know what we are talking about. where have i used any big words, my bad forgot your 12 and anything involving more then 5 letters is a "big word" im not trying to impress anyone, you and the op both posted incorrect information which i corrected, if your going to get butthurt about it then dont post here you wont be missed and can join the line of hundreds of others who already took the hint.
Originally Posted by HarleyDobbs
Never said I knew anything about Nitrous which I why I'm posting on the forum so please get off the other dudes nuts. This would be my first nitrous car to be honest so instead of buying parts and being pissed that I got not enough or too much I am educating myself.
Also my thread is talking about 150 2 stage and I'm trying to get a good feel for what's going to be better in the long run and it looks like DP. As you can see other have posted very fruitful info and others keep talking about their V8. If it was all the same then why are kits most of the time model specific? Why are there dry vs wet kits? If nitrous was the same all around then would only make one kit and make it cylinder specific (inline 4, inline 6, V6, V8 ect)
No one between this thread and mine has asked about 5 stage anything, at best 2 stage. Principal is not the same because on most set up for Z's you have to run a wet kit vs other cars you can use dry much easier. This is based on what I've read in these forums.
Never said I knew anything about Nitrous which I why I'm posting on the forum so please get off the other dudes nuts. This would be my first nitrous car to be honest so instead of buying parts and being pissed that I got not enough or too much I am educating myself.
Also my thread is talking about 150 2 stage and I'm trying to get a good feel for what's going to be better in the long run and it looks like DP. As you can see other have posted very fruitful info and others keep talking about their V8. If it was all the same then why are kits most of the time model specific? Why are there dry vs wet kits? If nitrous was the same all around then would only make one kit and make it cylinder specific (inline 4, inline 6, V6, V8 ect)
No one between this thread and mine has asked about 5 stage anything, at best 2 stage. Principal is not the same because on most set up for Z's you have to run a wet kit vs other cars you can use dry much easier. This is based on what I've read in these forums.
Please stop talking...honestly. Never said the same jets work on the same cars so please show me where I said that dummy. We understand you are the king of Nitrous. Will that make you shut the f up now? Stop trying to impress everyone with your big words because you want to look cool. If I blow my engine/motor what ever the hell it's called IT'S NOT YOURS!!! Please follow this icon --->
11-15-2012, 08:50 PM
#28
I had a solenoid fail, it burned out and wouldn't open. No biggie, just couldn't use my nitrous until I replaced it. they usually only stick open when they get crap stuck in them, keep your install clean and use a filter on your bottle, and they won't stick open.
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