My '05 Track Z pics
The black nose mask is to protect the front of the car from all the rocks on the roads here (because of all of the road construction).
The clear mask will help, but is thin enough that a big enough rock could still damage the nose. With the combination of both the black (to protect against rocks) and the clear (to protect the paint from the black mask), the nose on the Z should be relatively "safe."
The clear mask will help, but is thin enough that a big enough rock could still damage the nose. With the combination of both the black (to protect against rocks) and the clear (to protect the paint from the black mask), the nose on the Z should be relatively "safe."
I see, well that makes sense. I had a leather bra on an older car before and it scratched the hell out of the paint, so it became a permanent edition to the car. Now I have a clear bra and luckily no road construction or dirt roads I have to go through.
Trending Topics
PDX Racer,
Will we see you up here of the SCCA#2 at Packwood? It looks like the OR region is going to hold events at Packwood as well. Wait until you see the pit area... covered... way cool.
BC
Will we see you up here of the SCCA#2 at Packwood? It looks like the OR region is going to hold events at Packwood as well. Wait until you see the pit area... covered... way cool.
BC
Originally Posted by BA Cutler
PDX Racer,
Will we see you up here of the SCCA#2 at Packwood? It looks like the OR region is going to hold events at Packwood as well. Wait until you see the pit area... covered... way cool.
BC
Will we see you up here of the SCCA#2 at Packwood? It looks like the OR region is going to hold events at Packwood as well. Wait until you see the pit area... covered... way cool.
BC
I was there for the practice/event last fall. Way cool! I'm looking forward to all of the Packwood events!
Still waiting for 710s to come in a decent size. Picked up a set of Hoosier S04s (275s) on closeout (I figured I couldn't go wrong at 40% off).
The tire pressure discussion is interesting. It makes me think about those things from a scientific viewpoint.
The tire pressure discussion is interesting. It makes me think about those things from a scientific viewpoint.
PDXRacer,
The the stock shocks sure were junk, are you going with Konis or are you going big time?
And given the lack of chamber adjustment... it's nice to have a very stiff sway bar to prevent losing even more chamber while cornering. What bar are you considering? I have the 350EVO bar.
BC
The the stock shocks sure were junk, are you going with Konis or are you going big time?
And given the lack of chamber adjustment... it's nice to have a very stiff sway bar to prevent losing even more chamber while cornering. What bar are you considering? I have the 350EVO bar.
BC
Installing the Koni SA fronts tonight (and the Eibach front sway bar). If I have time tonight, I'll get the rears installed too.
I found "the secret" to getting the front struts out -- disconnect the front sway bar.
I found "the secret" to getting the front struts out -- disconnect the front sway bar.
Originally Posted by BA Cutler
Oh, aren't those front struts a fun installation?
With the FSB disconnected, it took about 10 minutes to get the shock out.
No, my neighbor is.
Actually, after struggling with the left front for hours, my neighbor got back from a DSM meet, and I asked him for any suggestions. His first suggestion was, why not disconnect the FSB? I was going to do it anyway to replace it, but I thought that with both front tires in the air, that it wasn't going to buy me a whole lot. I was wrong.
I disconnected the FSB from the left front, and it took me about 15 minutes to figure out how to get the U on top of the lower arm (hint: loosen -- but don't remove -- the outside and frontmost upper mounting insulator nuts, use a small pry bar to walk the U on top of the arm). Remove the nuts on the insulator, a quick pry, and it was free.
Once I got the left back in (which was even easier than getting it out, just reverse), I went around and got the right front out in about 15 minutes (5 to disconnect everything, 10 to walk the RF strut out).
Props go to my neighbor for figuring out that I was still working against the sway bar. Disconnect that, and there's just enough space to get the strut out.
Actually, after struggling with the left front for hours, my neighbor got back from a DSM meet, and I asked him for any suggestions. His first suggestion was, why not disconnect the FSB? I was going to do it anyway to replace it, but I thought that with both front tires in the air, that it wasn't going to buy me a whole lot. I was wrong.
I disconnected the FSB from the left front, and it took me about 15 minutes to figure out how to get the U on top of the lower arm (hint: loosen -- but don't remove -- the outside and frontmost upper mounting insulator nuts, use a small pry bar to walk the U on top of the arm). Remove the nuts on the insulator, a quick pry, and it was free.
Once I got the left back in (which was even easier than getting it out, just reverse), I went around and got the right front out in about 15 minutes (5 to disconnect everything, 10 to walk the RF strut out).
Props go to my neighbor for figuring out that I was still working against the sway bar. Disconnect that, and there's just enough space to get the strut out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lt_Ballzacki
Brakes & Suspension
39
Aug 6, 2021 06:19 AM
350Z_Al
Exterior & Interior
133
Oct 29, 2020 07:44 PM








