For those of you who've had your engines built in the PNW, who do you recommend I take my project to? An Oregon builder would be preferable. I've got all this stuff waiting to be installed:



I've talked to and met with Scott from SVRT who was going to build my spare block a while back (before we figured out it was FUBAR), but I know he has a lot of projects on his plate already and dont know if he'd be able to fit me in now that its going to involve pulling the existing engine out of the car.

Anyway, I'm ready to get rolling on the build once I collect the parts for the heads.

 

Don't Go To Vrt...

 

If Scott can't do it then have your car trailered to Rancho Cucamonga (GTM).

 

lol, yeah I think I will avoid VRT

 

i am moving right next door to my shop in just a couple days which will give me alot more time to be there at night and weekends. give me a call and we can prolly work something out. btw- not sure what parts you need for the heads, but i do have quite a few extra parts.

503-504-1037 scott

also, take into consideration the parts you have there. they will work for 500rwhp and less, but an upgrade to the 1/2" head studs and hks headgaskets are gunna be mandatory for anything more. believe me, i know first hand, lol.

 

Yeah, listen to the guy, 1/2" studs and a HKS are keeping me safe .... Also, a pair of Scott's wastegate dumps will help reduce stress on the engine and also release up a bunch of HP ...

Colin

 

Shooting for 450whp, so I'm sure I will be fine.

Going out of state for about a month, but I will give you a call when I get back Scott, and hopefully we can work something out.

 

Famous last words.

Trust us, it doesn't matter if you are shooting for 450whp, do it right the first time...

 

Dude, there are guys running 550whp+ on the stock block, and you think I'm going to have problems running 450 on a block with forged rods and pistons, cometic HG's, and ARP hardware throughout? Please explain your logic and let me know how I'm not "doing it right the first time".

 

Show me someone that is claiming to daily drive a 550rwhp car and I'll politely explain that my d*i*ck goes all the way down to the floor ...

 

Spoils, it all comes down to piece of mind. If you are going to have the engine out then why not spend a few hundred extra now to upgrade to the HKS gasket and 1/2" SVRT headstuds?

I would rather spend a little now than spend a lot later...obviously it is your project so I am just offering friendly advice

 

sounds good. that will give me a chance to get my cars wrapped up and me settled in.
there is a couple places you can pick up the hks head gaskets for $300 shipped now. the cometics are basically just a stock gasket with viton material on the whole gasket rather than just around the cylinders like stock, which is really the only place it is needed anyways. i could have gotten ya stock gaskets for about $35 each. btw-performance motorsport ran up to 900crank hp on stock gaskets, lol. the hks gaskets are 3 layer with a 4th layer just around the cylinder to act like the block or heads are o-ringed. this creates a huge spike in gasket pressure and sealing ability around the cylinders.
the first vq35's to be built were using all the same parts you have. most all now have had to be rebuilt because of part fatigueing. i stretched my stock sized arp's and am just about done doing the upgrades on my motor finally after well over a year of actually needing to be rebuilt. just hate to see ya run into problems and have the potential of needing to do it again (block and heads can only be surfaced a small amount and you can only bore twice also, then a new block will be needed)
now, on the other hand, i know bruce (redleader) hasn't had any problems at his normal around town boost setting (460rwhp iirc, maybe he will chime in) and i believe he has the cometics gaskets and stock size arp's. but if ya plan on putting your foot into it on a regular basis, you can very easily have probs.
i can build it any way you chose, but the addition of these couple parts is worth looking into returning the others and then the cost difference is relatively small compared to potential problems that could force another rebuild before it's time. i wouldn't recommend it if it hadn't happened to my own motor.

 

^

Listen to the man! You are a pretty serious racer, no? I would just hate to see this thing give on you after a few months of abuse