Oil drip from bell housing.
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Not good
Sounds like the rear main seal. It will drain between the block and fly wheel and collect in the bottom of the bell housing. Since there is not a seal there it will drip out slowy.
My suggestion is pull the tranny, clutch, and flywheel and take a looka at the seal. You've pulled it enough it should be quick, so to speak.
Good new you should be able to tell if its a rear main seal. Check in the service manual and it should show you how to replace it. I'll check it out to see what it intails.
Bad news if it isnt a rear main seal then I have no clue what the hell it could be.
As for your oil pan you'll have to drain the oil and reseal it. Thats what I hate about spacers you have 2 times the surface area to seal and 2 times the chance of leaks.
I'll get back to you if I find any thing else out.
My suggestion is pull the tranny, clutch, and flywheel and take a looka at the seal. You've pulled it enough it should be quick, so to speak.
Good new you should be able to tell if its a rear main seal. Check in the service manual and it should show you how to replace it. I'll check it out to see what it intails.
Bad news if it isnt a rear main seal then I have no clue what the hell it could be.
As for your oil pan you'll have to drain the oil and reseal it. Thats what I hate about spacers you have 2 times the surface area to seal and 2 times the chance of leaks.
I'll get back to you if I find any thing else out.
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The page your looking for is EM 77 for the instalation and removal of rear oil seal. Here is a copy for you.... Cant copy the pictures.
Removal and Installation of Rear Oil Seal ABS000PW
REMOVAL
1. Remove oil pan (upper). Refer to EM-26, "OIL PAN AND OIL STRAINER" .
2. Remove transmission assembly. Refer to MT-15, "TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY" (M/T models) or AT-
188, "TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY" (A/T models).
3. Use a seal cutter (special service tool) to cut away liquid gasket
and remove rear oil seal retainer.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to damage mounting surface.
NOTE:
Rear oil seal and retainer form a single part and are handled as
an assembly.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove old liquid gasket on mating surface of cylinder block and oil pan using scraper.
2. Apply liquid gasket to rear oil seal retainer using tube presser
(special service tool) as shown in the figure.
Use Genuine RTV Silicone Sealant or equivalent. Refer to GI-
48, "RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS AND SEALANTS"
.
Assembly should be done within 5 minutes after coating.
3. Install rear oil seal retainer to cylinder block.
4. Perform steps in the reverse order of removal for the following operations.
EDIT: This is what you will need if you do have a leaky seal. And it looks like it can be done while the engine is in. But it looks like a **** load of work. Hell Chevy V-8's are MUCH easier: pull tranny, replace seal, put tranny in, END OF STORY! With this you have MUCH more work ahead of you. Well since you have to drop the pan it means you gotta pull the timing covers, might as well retourque the head studs while you were at it.
Removal and Installation of Rear Oil Seal ABS000PW
REMOVAL
1. Remove oil pan (upper). Refer to EM-26, "OIL PAN AND OIL STRAINER" .
2. Remove transmission assembly. Refer to MT-15, "TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY" (M/T models) or AT-
188, "TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY" (A/T models).
3. Use a seal cutter (special service tool) to cut away liquid gasket
and remove rear oil seal retainer.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to damage mounting surface.
NOTE:
Rear oil seal and retainer form a single part and are handled as
an assembly.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove old liquid gasket on mating surface of cylinder block and oil pan using scraper.
2. Apply liquid gasket to rear oil seal retainer using tube presser
(special service tool) as shown in the figure.
Use Genuine RTV Silicone Sealant or equivalent. Refer to GI-
48, "RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS AND SEALANTS"
.
Assembly should be done within 5 minutes after coating.
3. Install rear oil seal retainer to cylinder block.
4. Perform steps in the reverse order of removal for the following operations.
EDIT: This is what you will need if you do have a leaky seal. And it looks like it can be done while the engine is in. But it looks like a **** load of work. Hell Chevy V-8's are MUCH easier: pull tranny, replace seal, put tranny in, END OF STORY! With this you have MUCH more work ahead of you. Well since you have to drop the pan it means you gotta pull the timing covers, might as well retourque the head studs while you were at it.
Last edited by punish_her; 03-29-2007 at 12:28 AM.
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