lol

 

yea thats the thing. I wouldnt really trust a machine shop if they dont even have any experience on the vq. So in the long run its more cost effective and less down time as well. Thanks for the advice.

 

No sweat. Oh another helpful tidbit of info, BAX Global is the only company that will ship the used engin off island. Every one else wont touch it. Found that out the hard way, about 2 months waiting.

 

iight man imma contact bzm and see what kind of packages he is offering.

 

You have to get the bottom end and heads seperate now which leave you with just a minor assembly and timing that you can do on your own really (cheaper too) or have Sonic do it. Too many people screwing up the installs and trying to blame it on BZM. Me and Pun both had cam problems that had nothing no to with BZM but they covered the all costs.

 

so now a longblock dosent come pre assembled? thats really not a problem. The only thing im worried about is the crazy shipping cost. I sorta need to get my priorities straight. Twin Turbo kit first or built motor. its either or right now cause i have no where near the amount of cash to get both at the same time.

 

Since when did this happen, its news to me. HMMMMMM

I'll drop Todd a line and see whats up with that.

Diz, If you get with built Z tell him Mike sent you. You should get a decent deal. Been sending him several people and he takes good care of them.

EDIT: Just FYI one step ALOT of people dont follow is the retightening the head bolt after about 500 miles. Its a pain in the *** because you have to pull the cams to do it.

 

is it due to the studs stretching or the head seating better??? im curious as to why cause im still learning.

 

A little of both actualy. The same reason you are suposed to retorque the lugs on your wheels after about 50ish. When you tighten them there is a slight heat that occures and the metal gets soft. On a molecular level here now mind you. You give it 50 miles because the rotation and pressure seat the wheel and the studs cool back to where they were before. Then you retorque. I've noticed any where fro 2 to 4 foot pounds of diffrence in the past.

 

Hey Diz,

You are the one gonna be placing the order of the engine, right? If so let me know I'll drop Todd your name (Kamu right?). I'll at least let him know you'd be contacting him, well thats unless you already did. If so then um totaly ignore those last 3 sentences.

 

if i was ryan, i would get retuned, so i wasnt running 13.6 AF prior to pushing 420rwhp

 

shes going back in for a retune.

 

yea thanks for that. im still not sure which to get first. twin turbo ill make use of the forged internals i have already or built motor and still run my very lacking s/c. Honestly what would you do if you was in the same situation?

 

I see what I marked in red you said you have forged internals already. In Red you are talking about building an engine. Am I mising some thing here? If you have forged internals already no need to build. All you would need is to beef up a few things in your engine.

Well I already did what you did. If you find my old a$$ thread going ***** deep, I had an original build list that included a procharger headers and a few other things after I bought it all I did more research and found out that the ATI was SEVERLEY over rated on power. So I changed my order to a Greddy set up. I was lucky the changed one for one. So my TT Kit was $4500 shipped .

You have forged internals already? Or did I just read that wrong? If you already have forged internals you should be good. If you dont have the Timecerts and 1/2" studs you can easily do the L19's, they are higher tensil strength and wont stretch as easy. They fit the standard holes.

If you have lower compression pistons in before the turo's your gonna HATE the car. Its definately a bad thing to run 8.6 or 9.0 to 1 NA. So I would say Buy the TT, sell the SC which will offset the cost of the TT. You can always stay below 450whp until you get built (if no internals already)

If you already have the forged internals in, I'd say just change out the studs and put on the pathfinder rear cylinder bypass cooling mod. Blitz boost controler, HKS 1000cc injectors, the fuel return with walbro 255 pump, and modify the gates to recirulate down the exhaust or atmo (not back up stream likes its designed now). All that and a reliable EMS will net you well over 500 easy. Step up the the multi layer SS head gaskets, 1/2" studs, half shaft, and a few other gizmoes the limit is either your clutch or your tranny.

I'd say plan out what you want to put down in the end and do the little research and work back wards from there.

 

^^wow that was really helpfull. yea by forged internals i was talking about just rods and pistons. built motor i was talking about the whole works sleeves headwork everything. sorry for not clearing that up. My goals would be high 500 to low 600 on pump gas water/meth. I doubt the block would stay intact without sleeving it. If you think the block will stay fine as is, i will be ordering the twin turbo very soon. in a couple more months. Seems that you sir have really done your research, something that i am lacking. Imma try and price out those parts that you listed. You wouldnt happen to have any hookups?

 

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/134818-my-big-project.html
you mean this old thread

 

Sleeves are not needed. The motor runs hotter and a lot of people are running 600+ with open deck so waste IMO.

 

Yep that be the one.


With those power levels you wont realy need sleeves. The stock sleeves have been god for some to over 650whp so your good on that end which save you about 3 to 4k. What are your intentions with the car? Sleeves have been shown to actualy rais engine temps signafacantly under track conditions because it SEVERLEY restricks circulation arround the sleeves them selves. They are good for drags though because no prolonged heat soaking. There are some out there that flow better, there was a thread a year or so back by trav(somthing or rather I forgot the rest) with some sleves with mo better flow. I knew the guy back on the B15 sentra forums, he's out of Louisiana. REALY knows his ****. If you sleeve thats probably the better way to go. But again not necessary at your power goal. Plus a waste for 96mm pistons too.

Hell, my block is not sleeved and no plans on it. My goals are 2 fold... 1) 500whp low boost every day tune and 2) high boost pump gas limit tune. So what ever the limits of pump gas and or turbo's then thats where its at. It should be pretty high considering the extensive head work and valve train (predicting high 600's pretty easy). I realy dont need a 3 inch exhaust because I have atmo dumps so at max boost I have open headers esentaly. That flows WAY better than a full 3 inch full dual.

As for hookups the only real bonafide one I have is Todd, but that due to the business I've sent him. Every thing else was hours and hours of research and browsing. Todd has some pretty good deals on heads. He realy only did the assembly because he pimped out the head work to his shop. It was DAMN NICE. I got pics, if you want, of the whole process. All my Ferrea valve train I got at less than half price total. Its as easy as going to the manufacture sight and finding out what retail is; then just start searching.

As for your internals, you already have them; so when you get your engine built you will have to send them all to Todd before he can build. They bore match the sleves for each individual piston so you have actualy 6 diffrent bore sizes to match each piston. If your getting the engine built by Todd might as well tack on the 1/2" studs and HKS layered SS head gasket. No stud stretch and definatly no blown head gaskets. From what I've heard to get 550 to 600whp its not necessary to get cams. I only got them because they were a damn good price.

If you do you homework right you can save your self several thousands of dollars easy. Hell on my initial order alone I got about $15,000 of stuff for exactly $10,000 shipped. The biggest thing is work with as few vendors as possible, making as little purchases as possible. So lump several things to gether and make a buy. You can nickle and dime shipping too if you work it right. The first thing I paid for shipping on is my wheels. Most every thing, no shipping. That in it self will save you ALOT of money.

 

DAMN!! You beat to it because Im a wordy ****. I was typing up my last responce for about 20 minutes.

 

lol

Well I am going to get tuned in January so I will post a dyno sheet from Florida.