yea and brake boosting or is that brake torquing? i read that but i thought people said it didnt work or you needed some sort of device to simulate the signal in between the ecu and the brake sensor. Well that is besides the fact. Ill send that pic right now. thanks

EDIT:AHAHA was going to ask for your email but my eyes seem to be getting worst right now. Didnt see it the first time around.

 

I've read mixed results about 101 so Im gonna read it again. But yes break boosting too. I guess the break torquing is a hold over term from my LT1 days. But yeah same principle. Preloading the drivetrain, creating a load. With turbo's that creats boost. With a SC your already building boost in your preload, but your preventing the back lash putting excess strain on your drivetrane. Thats when you see those Race cars, that have a torque brake/ transbrake kinda walk up alitle on the tires. The torque is passing through and yada yada yada. I ramble.

 

After reading all the pages and taking notes of KP's test with and with out the 101 pulled. The cruise control is disabled when the 101 is open. Long reason but there have to be 2 signals present at inverse ratio's. Well thats realy the only down side is the code being thrown dissabeling CC.

Well if drive around with an OBDII code reader in your car, then thats fine. Just clear that code when your done racing or what not. If you dont already have the reader or your just too lazy to clear the code; then the modual is good.

So in summery:

cut 101 & CEL code = brake boost/ brake torque + no CC
Switch 101 & no CEL code = brake boost/ brake torque + OBDII reader
KP Module no CEL code = brake boost/ brake torque + $25ish

EDIT: Where exactly am I looking in your photo? I dont see much in the box.

 

woops didnt check this thread. the wrapper in the box could give hint to what brand it is. i just dont know. We are going to be installing a switch in between the line this weekend. I will let you know the results. This is going to be fun. Never brake boosted in a z before.

 

Well you may be defeating the original intent for break boosting. It's to provide a load for the engine, producing more exhaust gasses, thus allowing a turbo to spin up at a lower RPM. The catch 22 man is maybe more obvious now, you cant break boost a SC.

Its actualy counter productive on an SC. It lowers your revs and puts more strain on your engine, with zero benifits involved. Because you are SC the only real way this will be helpful is if you need to burn out or get a stron launch via torque breaking an automatic. Since you are no longer an auto, the only thing you can take advantage of is the burnout. Well maybe certain trail braking techniques where you keep on the gas in a turn while you break.

So any percieved benitfit you may see brake boosting an SC isnt from the brake boosting. Again slightly more obvious, when you have your foot on the gas and brake, then remove the brake, all you have left is the gas down.... Yeah your going to accelerate.

 

that was such a complicating post it blew my mind >.<.

 

bwahahaha. i should of been more clear. I was talking about ryans car. Not mine.

 

Yeah you kinda switched gears talking about your car than Ryan's. In that case, YEP IT WILL WORK! Definately let us know how it goes.

Even in that original post; KP, the guy that made the moduel, is saying it would be easier to just wire a switch and clear codes.

An interesting note for your car though. The 101 switch does not work with the 5AT. That being said, your car was converted from a 5AT to a manual. Since you still have the 5 AT ECU, this may not work on your car if you try it out. The ECU may still have that control over the timing since it still thinks its a 5 AT.

You may want to read up on the symptoms prior to trying this. In a nut shell it triggers the 5 AT ECU to go into a limp mode.

 

huh very interesting... I don't know how my dad got it to work with the Auto ecu. Cause it went directly into limp mode once it detected the auto trans wasn't there. Not any more. My car is confused because it keeps racking up mileage but it never goes out of park.... or so it thinks. Yea ill make a thread in here with pics on the install for any one that wants to do it.

 

This may help bring some light on your Transexual Tranny. Page AT-91 park/ neutral position switch position switch DTC code P0705. Along with AT-71 Trouble shooting section, item "vehichle runs with transmission in P position"

This gives a little insite into tricking your AT ECU. It looks like with the switch grounded out out, it is possible to drive the vehicle in park. Which meens remove the AT, ground out the input lead, vehicle registers park. The TCM (transmision control modual) is basicly ignored, or from what I gathered. So if you do a DTC read out you may have a code floating in there, not sure. But its possibel you vave the P0705 DTC code stored in there.

But yeah, from the diagrams and reading: when the input of the PNP switch is grounded out (0v static), switch position's 1 2 3 and 4 are not registered. Then Poof! You have a TCM that is receptive to the man.tran. Again this is all surmised from the reading, and there may be another viable solution that was used.

EDIT: Just read several passages about your fail safe mode. When PNP shitch voltage does not match pressure switches out put vehicle goes into a fail safe mode. So with out the PNP input being grounded, its still returning a signal. Since the output signals are still there and not bypassed by grounding it out, it goes failsafe or "Limp Mode". AGAIN... I could be WAY off on this one but that's what it looks like is happening. Im currious to see what your dad did.

 

You and me are in the same boat... He gave me an answer but i didnt really understand it. O yea on a side note i forgot that it doesn't say its in park anymore. The screen is blank now but i know its not in "limp" mode. Its weird. Ill ask my dad what he did. We will be trying to install the switch for brake boosting later today. Should be interesting!