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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #61  
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Can't go wrong with the RC1. I have no experience with the YN trigger.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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Anyone have any input on the Canon 10-22 vs Tokina 11-16 or maybe some other wide angle option?
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:16 PM
  #63  
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I have a Promaster wireless remote. Works well with my 7d so far. Haven't used it that much since I haven't had the camera long.

Anyone have the New Tamron 10-24 lens? Thinking about picking one up.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:53 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by BallZ6Spd
I have a Promaster wireless remote. Works well with my 7d so far. Haven't used it that much since I haven't had the camera long.

Anyone have the New Tamron 10-24 lens? Thinking about picking one up.
From DPR's Lens review

Conclusion - Pros
■Equal widest angle in its class, and largest zoom range (by a whisker)
■Low distortion
■Generally good resistance to flare

Conclusion - Cons
■Soft wide open (low local contrast)
■Soft corners at all focal lengths and apertures
■Wide diameter lens hood takes up lots of space in a bag
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by kukles
Anyone have any input on the Canon 10-22 vs Tokina 11-16 or maybe some other wide angle option?
Heard alot of good things about the Canon, not so much about the Tokina.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by stu46
Can't go wrong with the RC1. I have no experience with the YN trigger.
Thanks! Another question is for lighting. I'm going to be doing quite a bit of cars/portraits that will require external lighting. I've read up ALOT but still can't seem to grasp most of the stuff they're talking about. I'm a hands on person and will understand once I can actually use it and see the results first hand. I found a couple Sunpak 383's on ebay for around $35 and was going to pull the trigger. My only hesitation is from my lack of knowledge. I know I still need a few other items IE: some sort of diffuser, stand, etc. Should I just get them and go from there or work with the existing light on shoots?
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #67  
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You will almost always need a strobe or two (ideally 3 with a strong guide number). Even in good existing light. Get in the habbit of using strobes to fill areas of the car that have shadows alowing you show the details.

Last edited by Zazz93; Jan 18, 2010 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by kukles
Anyone have any input on the Canon 10-22 vs Tokina 11-16 or maybe some other wide angle option?
If you shoot indoors and need the 2.8, go with the tokina. For landscape, the canon is better since it's more resistant to flare and a little wider.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:45 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by stu46
If you shoot indoors and need the 2.8, go with the tokina. For landscape, the canon is better since it's more resistant to flare and a little wider.
+1.

I sold my Sigma 10-20 (old version) because I got the Tokina and kind of regret it. 11mm vs 10mm makes a huge difference. Plus, the Tokina magnification numbers lag behind the others, so you can't really get too close to focus.

Call me crazy, but I was supposed to get the Canon 10-22 to compliment my Tokina 11-16.

I was one of the first to get the Tokina when it was released, and did this quick test vs. Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6, and Sigma 10mm Fisheye.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...0&changemode=1

What the Tokina will have the advantage of is low light situations obviously, and less DOF. So it'll make for a better portrait lens and better in concerts, parties, moving objects/people, etc. You could do it with the Canon now also, with high ISO performance improving in these newer bodies.

But the Canon I feel will be better for shooting static stuff like cars. It also has better distortion control, as well as way less CA.

I tried replicating this shot taken with the Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6, and the Tokina can't replicate it. With wide-angle lenses, if you want to exaggerate distortion, or exaggerate depth, the Tokina does not do as well as the others.



In the end, be like me and just get both. I'm going to have to wait 'till summer for mine Buying too much car parts right now.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 07:30 AM
  #70  
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I have the 10-22, I really like it.. just wish it was a tad bit sharper.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 07:56 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by ni$mo350
Can anyone suggest a good remote trigger to use. I've gotten responses on POTN from cheapo korean "x" brand to the Canon RC1. I'm going to be doing quite a bit of long exposure and star trails, etc.
do you want something wired or wireless? i bought a cheap wired remote from ebay for $4 shipped and i'm pretty happy with it.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:23 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by ni$mo350
Thanks! Another question is for lighting. I'm going to be doing quite a bit of cars/portraits that will require external lighting. I've read up ALOT but still can't seem to grasp most of the stuff they're talking about. I'm a hands on person and will understand once I can actually use it and see the results first hand. I found a couple Sunpak 383's on ebay for around $35 and was going to pull the trigger. My only hesitation is from my lack of knowledge. I know I still need a few other items IE: some sort of diffuser, stand, etc. Should I just get them and go from there or work with the existing light on shoots?
I shot this with a 2002 model Canon D60, and Speedotron Strobes.



I used one softbox overhead, and one small fill with a grid, on the wheel. Go to places like Alien Bees, and look into getting a couple low cost units to start with.

If you have any questions, just PM me!
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by davidc81
do you want something wired or wireless? i bought a cheap wired remote from ebay for $4 shipped and i'm pretty happy with it.
I prefer wireless. I've heard a couple stories about having wired and kids/pets getting snagged on the wire and the end result wasn't so pretty. Also wireless would come in handy for rolling rig shots. Do you have the name of the one you have?

Originally Posted by ZRated67
I shot this with a 2002 model Canon D60, and Speedotron Strobes.


I used one softbox overhead, and one small fill with a grid, on the wheel. Go to places like Alien Bees, and look into getting a couple low cost units to start with.

If you have any questions, just PM me!
I'll deff do that, thanks for the help!

Last edited by ni$mo350; Jan 19, 2010 at 10:17 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #74  
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i've got 2 AB800's that i haven't even pulled out of the box due to moving and just being flat out too busy in general but from what i hear they are the cat's meow for the price. i'm eager to try them now that it's warm outside again...
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 12:19 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by HKYStormFront
i've got 2 AB800's that i haven't even pulled out of the box due to moving and just being flat out too busy in general but from what i hear they are the cat's meow for the price. i'm eager to try them now that it's warm outside again...
Not sure if I can justify $300 for an AB when the SB's are going for so cheap, especially while I'm learning to use lighting. I'll look into them though, thanks!
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 12:09 AM
  #76  
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The 383 for $35 is a great price. I owned 3 of them and ctwentytwo owns a few. Speedlights are very capable for automotive photography. They're cheap, portable, can use rechargable AA, and powerful enough to light a car before sunset. I prefer a minimum of 3 lights for automotive and as many as 6. The advantage that strobes have over speedlights is that they provide more power to combat the sun which will allow you to shoot earlier in the day as well as use a higher f-stop to obtain more depth of field without a higher ISO and sacrificing IQ. But they cost more, weigh a lot (since you'll need a portable power source), and take up a lot of space. I prefer bare bulb flashes like the Sunpak 120J oppose to traditional speedlight since the quality of light is much better. In addition to lights, you'll need good stands, mounting hardware, and triggers that add to the overall cost. So factor those into the equation when deciding on which platform you're looking at. No diffusers or any other light modifiers are needed.

I shot my friend's STI with 3 Alien Bee strobes.


Here's a member's Z shot with 5 bare bulb flashes.

Last edited by stu46; Jan 20, 2010 at 12:11 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #77  
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Thanks for the comparison and nice to see examples with pics. If I had the budget set aside for the AB's I'd go for them in a heart beat. Like you said, I have to take into account the stands (which I found new from B&H for $20 each) and umbrellas along with triggers. If I get 3 AB's I'm looking at $750.00 just for those over 5 383's which would cost at most $150.00. We'll see what happens. I dont want to "cheap out" but it seems like you and ctwentytwo had pretty good success with them for everyday equipment.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 05:52 PM
  #78  
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Don't go too cheap with the stands either. The smaller the foot print, the easier for it to tip over and break the flash. The Alien Bee 13' HD stands are very good for their price. Impact has a 13' stand for a little over $50 that is good as well.

Umbrellas are not preferred for shooting cars. Bare flash is the way to go.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Zazz93
Heard alot of good things about the Canon, not so much about the Tokina.
i used both and i like Tokina much better. Color rendition on Tokina is beautiful. Constant f/2.8 help quite a bit. Here is a sample of Tokina 11-16.



some of the samples i use with canon 10-20 during my trip to Zion few years ago:

http://aphanphoto.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=1

Sample using Sigma 12-24:

http://aphanphoto.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=12

Last edited by Bubble; Jan 23, 2010 at 11:33 AM.
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