GTM: never too late for another SC kit
What cams are you running now? With your car and how much air it flows and can flow well, I think you could go bigger. I am not trying to influence you but I would love to see your power band keep going
The nexus is going to totally be what Paul walker had in FF 1 with the NOS computer but brought up to modern day
I hope you don't lose a floor pan and blow your engine only to speed away from the cops and watch your car get blown up by Asian gangsters
The nexus is going to totally be what Paul walker had in FF 1 with the NOS computer but brought up to modern day
I hope you don't lose a floor pan and blow your engine only to speed away from the cops and watch your car get blown up by Asian gangsters
http://www.camshaftshop.com/uploads/...cart/189-C.pdf
You are right, i can build power the other way by extending the rev range and going with a larger pulley. As it is right now i'm overspinning it already at 7200rpm. I rather shift the power band lower to the left and forgo some topend. I somewhat have a feeling that i might do this in vain, but I can't help but try anyways. As a point of ref. The e92s that are running this same blower hit 600whp with 11psi at 8k.
If all things fail then i'm gonna NOS. Wonder if i can download that app Paul has on the Google Play Store.
Sup Gabe, Glad you got your ride back! You know Rob will take care of business. Hopefully, he can have it ready for you when you return. We need to get lunch and catch up. I will hit you up when you return from your trip.
Some update. I'm off to Asia again for a month so I dropped off my car to Zcargarage to get some work done. Don't think they will have time to finish all of this but this is what they have on their plate
Maintenance/Preventive Actions
• silence the BPV
• replace leaking mishimoto radiator with koyo 36mm vcore
• install JWT oil spacer and drain plug
• install Cosworth oil baffle
• replace exhaust hangers
• install poly rack/pinion bushing
• replace SPL solid diff bushing with Whiteline poly bushing
• install Berks HFCs
Upgrades
• install Stoptech trophy BBK
• install RJM clutch bracket
• install Nardi steering wheel and Works hub, relocate cruise control
• install ST800
Sensors
• remove the Greddy Infotouch and all its sensors
• install additional PLX sensors (AIT in manifold, EGT to driver side, oil pressure and temp, water temp pre radiator, boost in manifold)
• install Nexus 7 as main gauge display
• relocate 60mm PLX gauge next to the rear view mirror
Performance
• test the 96mm pulley again
• contemplating change to tomei 264 cams
• rewire the Racelogic harness
Maintenance/Preventive Actions
• silence the BPV
• replace leaking mishimoto radiator with koyo 36mm vcore
• install JWT oil spacer and drain plug
• install Cosworth oil baffle
• replace exhaust hangers
• install poly rack/pinion bushing
• replace SPL solid diff bushing with Whiteline poly bushing
• install Berks HFCs
Upgrades
• install Stoptech trophy BBK
• install RJM clutch bracket
• install Nardi steering wheel and Works hub, relocate cruise control
• install ST800
Sensors
• remove the Greddy Infotouch and all its sensors
• install additional PLX sensors (AIT in manifold, EGT to driver side, oil pressure and temp, water temp pre radiator, boost in manifold)
• install Nexus 7 as main gauge display
• relocate 60mm PLX gauge next to the rear view mirror
Performance
• test the 96mm pulley again
• contemplating change to tomei 264 cams
• rewire the Racelogic harness
Last edited by unvmyg35; Aug 14, 2013 at 10:13 PM.
It seems like everyone over spins their superchargers...
that is a pretty large cam, so I see what you are aiming at here now. Bigger pulley, smaller cams and better mid range, trying to make it do more in the RPM range, I like it.
I hope that this next stage does some good things for optimizing your car.
that is a pretty large cam, so I see what you are aiming at here now. Bigger pulley, smaller cams and better mid range, trying to make it do more in the RPM range, I like it.
I hope that this next stage does some good things for optimizing your car.
Hey Gabe,
I just read the spec sheet for the kelford cams. If the GTM stage3 have the same lobe centers and lift @TDC, the exhaust valve is way to much open for making boost with a sc. You can adjust the exhaust lobe center more backwards to reduce overlap but lose a bit torque when exhaust side opens earlier or go with JWT C8 items. Much better profil for boosted applications.
Patty
I just read the spec sheet for the kelford cams. If the GTM stage3 have the same lobe centers and lift @TDC, the exhaust valve is way to much open for making boost with a sc. You can adjust the exhaust lobe center more backwards to reduce overlap but lose a bit torque when exhaust side opens earlier or go with JWT C8 items. Much better profil for boosted applications.
Patty
It seems like everyone over spins their superchargers...
that is a pretty large cam, so I see what you are aiming at here now. Bigger pulley, smaller cams and better mid range, trying to make it do more in the RPM range, I like it.
I hope that this next stage does some good things for optimizing your car.
that is a pretty large cam, so I see what you are aiming at here now. Bigger pulley, smaller cams and better mid range, trying to make it do more in the RPM range, I like it.
I hope that this next stage does some good things for optimizing your car.
Thanks.
Hey Gabe,
I just read the spec sheet for the kelford cams. If the GTM stage3 have the same lobe centers and lift @TDC, the exhaust valve is way to much open for making boost with a sc. You can adjust the exhaust lobe center more backwards to reduce overlap but lose a bit torque when exhaust side opens earlier or go with JWT C8 items. Much better profil for boosted applications.
Patty
I just read the spec sheet for the kelford cams. If the GTM stage3 have the same lobe centers and lift @TDC, the exhaust valve is way to much open for making boost with a sc. You can adjust the exhaust lobe center more backwards to reduce overlap but lose a bit torque when exhaust side opens earlier or go with JWT C8 items. Much better profil for boosted applications.
Patty
That is one of the reason why i'm thinking of changing cams as well. I'm almost certain that the overlap is having some negative effect. I believe the preset VTC angle is already maxed out. I'll have to see once I am back or ask zcar to check.
Another possibility that might cause this are the piston rings not holding boost past a certain level. Maybe a partial explanation for the blow by. Might have to do a leak down test. Anyone know how it might be possible to perform a leak down test with pressure in the cylinder?
Just found out that Sam lost or stole my ballast and ignitier for my drivers side headlight=390.00...also, oil filter adaptor was gone as previously described HR water cooling mods...having my car at GTM cost me 1.5 yrs, bad built block (no crank clearance for stroker), about 3000 in lost/stolen parts....everyday I find something new missing since my car was at GTM...
All of you Dissatisfied GTM Customers should band together, and write up a special thread just for this. Everone needs to know!!!!!
Last edited by OldManZ350; Aug 17, 2013 at 04:21 PM.
Gabe,
acc. to cam spec and hp with your sc just a few easy calculation to compare with the c38/91 compressor map.
For 500rwhp the engine should flow about 0,5kg/s air. Pressure ratio with 9PSi boost and let's say 15% parasitic losses is 1,7:1.
When you put this 2 references on the rotrex map, you can recognize, that you are near the choke line of the map. For better efficiency and more air flow, higher pressure ratios will be better.
Conclusion, the blower has enough air to support even higher hp goals but with your cam timing most of the air directly blows by through the exhaust and you are not able to build more boost. Without a higher boost level, the engine is not able to produce more power and the blower is on it's choke line.
You should check these things with your engine shop before changing cams & pulleys.
Patty
acc. to cam spec and hp with your sc just a few easy calculation to compare with the c38/91 compressor map.
For 500rwhp the engine should flow about 0,5kg/s air. Pressure ratio with 9PSi boost and let's say 15% parasitic losses is 1,7:1.
When you put this 2 references on the rotrex map, you can recognize, that you are near the choke line of the map. For better efficiency and more air flow, higher pressure ratios will be better.
Conclusion, the blower has enough air to support even higher hp goals but with your cam timing most of the air directly blows by through the exhaust and you are not able to build more boost. Without a higher boost level, the engine is not able to produce more power and the blower is on it's choke line.
You should check these things with your engine shop before changing cams & pulleys.
Patty
Last edited by Patty; Aug 19, 2013 at 06:27 AM.
Gabe,
acc. to cam spec and hp with your sc just a few easy calculation to compare with the c38/91 compressor map.
For 500rwhp the engine should flow about 0,5kg/s air. Pressure ratio with 9PSi boost and let's say 15% parasitic losses is 1,7:1.
When you put this 2 references on the rotrex map, you can recognize, that you are near the choke line of the map. For better efficiency and more air flow, higher pressure ratios will be better.
Conclusion, the blower has enough air to support even higher hp goals but with your cam timing most of the air directly blows by through the exhaust and you are not able to build more boost. Without a higher boost level, the engine is not able to produce more power and the blower is on it's choke line.
You should check these things with your engine shop before changing cams & pulleys.
Patty
acc. to cam spec and hp with your sc just a few easy calculation to compare with the c38/91 compressor map.
For 500rwhp the engine should flow about 0,5kg/s air. Pressure ratio with 9PSi boost and let's say 15% parasitic losses is 1,7:1.
When you put this 2 references on the rotrex map, you can recognize, that you are near the choke line of the map. For better efficiency and more air flow, higher pressure ratios will be better.
Conclusion, the blower has enough air to support even higher hp goals but with your cam timing most of the air directly blows by through the exhaust and you are not able to build more boost. Without a higher boost level, the engine is not able to produce more power and the blower is on it's choke line.
You should check these things with your engine shop before changing cams & pulleys.
Patty
Came back from Korea last week and picked up my car from Zcar garage. Got a few misc things done before we tackle the performance aspect of things.
-Installed Personal steering wheel with WB quick release - grip feels nice and the slightly smaller diameter needs some getting used to.

-Installed Stoptech Trophy BBK on all four corners - tested them around the road and the feel is much more linear with less initial grab compared to the OE brembo and you can't beat the looks.





-Replaced the Mishimoto radiator with Koyo 36mm radiator - eventhough they were the same thickness the Koyo kept my water temp lower then Mishimoto, at around 210 max vs 225.
-Replaced the GTM TP with Berk HFCs - car is much quieter with less rasp and drone. Doesn't seem to have affected power much or any at all.
-Replaced SPL solid diff bushing with Whiteline poly bushing - this was a great decision for a weekend car. I like the SPL but the whining noise on decel was annoying me. This got rid of all those unwanted NVH.
-Replaced the OEM TC bushing with Whilteline poly bushing - didn't know I needed to replace these until zcar installed the BBK. I use to have this strange vibration while going down hill and turning right aggresively. I initially thought it was an alignment issue but this got rid of that.
-Replaced the OEM exhaust hangers - One of my exhaust tips was higher than the other side and touching my bumper. This fixed the issue.
-Replaced the OEM rack/pinion steering bushing with Energy poly bushing - Not sure whether it was the steering wheel, these bushing or both that change the feel but there is definitely more feedback coming from the ground to your hands. Something I also need to get used to, but so far I'm neutral about the feeling.
-Installed JWT oil spacer - this extra qt of oil in the pan made a big difference for temperature. Temp stays well below 215F vs 230F.
-Installed Cosworth Oil Baffle - can't say much about this. I decided to get this since it was cheap and the oil pan was out.
-Installed the RJM clutch pedal bracket version2 - great modification when the car is warmed up. On cold start the engagement point is extremely low and short, after running the car for 5-10 minutes things are much better compared to stock.
-Installed Personal steering wheel with WB quick release - grip feels nice and the slightly smaller diameter needs some getting used to.

-Installed Stoptech Trophy BBK on all four corners - tested them around the road and the feel is much more linear with less initial grab compared to the OE brembo and you can't beat the looks.





-Replaced the Mishimoto radiator with Koyo 36mm radiator - eventhough they were the same thickness the Koyo kept my water temp lower then Mishimoto, at around 210 max vs 225.
-Replaced the GTM TP with Berk HFCs - car is much quieter with less rasp and drone. Doesn't seem to have affected power much or any at all.
-Replaced SPL solid diff bushing with Whiteline poly bushing - this was a great decision for a weekend car. I like the SPL but the whining noise on decel was annoying me. This got rid of all those unwanted NVH.
-Replaced the OEM TC bushing with Whilteline poly bushing - didn't know I needed to replace these until zcar installed the BBK. I use to have this strange vibration while going down hill and turning right aggresively. I initially thought it was an alignment issue but this got rid of that.
-Replaced the OEM exhaust hangers - One of my exhaust tips was higher than the other side and touching my bumper. This fixed the issue.
-Replaced the OEM rack/pinion steering bushing with Energy poly bushing - Not sure whether it was the steering wheel, these bushing or both that change the feel but there is definitely more feedback coming from the ground to your hands. Something I also need to get used to, but so far I'm neutral about the feeling.
-Installed JWT oil spacer - this extra qt of oil in the pan made a big difference for temperature. Temp stays well below 215F vs 230F.
-Installed Cosworth Oil Baffle - can't say much about this. I decided to get this since it was cheap and the oil pan was out.
-Installed the RJM clutch pedal bracket version2 - great modification when the car is warmed up. On cold start the engagement point is extremely low and short, after running the car for 5-10 minutes things are much better compared to stock.
Last edited by gabe3d; Sep 30, 2013 at 02:16 AM.
All those little fixes probably add up to feel like a new car.
I didn't like the Berk HFC's. I had really bad drone until I switched to Motordyne ART pipes. Now I have virtually no drone.
Was there a reason you went with the 36mm Koyo instead of the 53mm? Everybody thinks it won't clear a Vortech but it will if you trim a tiny bit of fan shroud.
I wonder if the newer 3.2 revision of the RJM would fix the cold operating issue.
I didn't like the Berk HFC's. I had really bad drone until I switched to Motordyne ART pipes. Now I have virtually no drone.
Was there a reason you went with the 36mm Koyo instead of the 53mm? Everybody thinks it won't clear a Vortech but it will if you trim a tiny bit of fan shroud.
I wonder if the newer 3.2 revision of the RJM would fix the cold operating issue.
All those little fixes probably add up to feel like a new car.
I didn't like the Berk HFC's. I had really bad drone until I switched to Motordyne ART pipes. Now I have virtually no drone.
Was there a reason you went with the 36mm Koyo instead of the 53mm? Everybody thinks it won't clear a Vortech but it will if you trim a tiny bit of fan shroud.
I wonder if the newer 3.2 revision of the RJM would fix the cold operating issue.
I didn't like the Berk HFC's. I had really bad drone until I switched to Motordyne ART pipes. Now I have virtually no drone.
Was there a reason you went with the 36mm Koyo instead of the 53mm? Everybody thinks it won't clear a Vortech but it will if you trim a tiny bit of fan shroud.
I wonder if the newer 3.2 revision of the RJM would fix the cold operating issue.
Maybe i'll look into the ART pipes, i used to run them when i was NA but switched to LTH. Minus the drone, was the car quieter with or without the HFC?
No particular reason why we didn't go with the 53mm. My car never had any overheating issues with the previous 36mm so we decided to stick with the 36mm. Also the G's radiator hole alignment are slightly different from the Z.
I'm hoping this funky clutch pedal is related to adjustment rather than hardware. I'm actually used to it already, so if worst comes to worst... i guess i will live with it.
If I were you, i'd pull the trigger. Even if it is a permanent problem, which it doesn't seem to be, the benefits far outweigh those 5 minutes.
Finishing up the clusterfk that GTM created for me in the 1.5 yrs my car was there...I find now, in addition to previously mentioned missing parts, that my headlight wiring harness and turn signal socket on drivers side are gone...also recic pipes weren't included as paid for, exhaust manifold heat shields were taken and MORE items that were ceramic coated are flaking and engine has never run! GTM fkd me bad..don't let them do the same to you...I have lost approx. 5k in lost parts and poor coatings from GTM...
They suck!
They suck!
Last edited by ogiehooker; Oct 2, 2013 at 06:40 PM. Reason: spelling
I have taken flak in the past for my constant bashing of GTM but I don't care...hope I help someone along the way...
Yes, GTM is a hug RIPOFF! My threads are elsewhere, you can read them...Sam at GTM took my 26K for a long block/TT setup and after 1.5 yrs, he only had a shortblock finished....Got a lawyer, he gave me my **** and took the car elsewhere...In the 1 yr since then, I have lost/had stolen, over 5k in parts from GTM. Sam even built my stroker block w/o proper clearance and the engine wouldn't even turn over after it was installed by another shop....WHAT A COMPLETE A-HOLE. He had PAINTED items I asked to be ceramic coated thereby cheating out of more money..I had to recoat all the parts...He wouldn't retun my HR conversion cooling system to fit my DE and when the other shop asked for it, he replied "why should I help him"? CAUSE IT'S THE RIGHT THING TO DO MF'R!!! Never did get those parts (900) and new shop had to remake them....headlight ballast and wiring was missing, c,losed dumps for waste gates were missing starter was missing etc etc....
Don't believe the hype and BS Sam puts out....I continue to bash his azz cause I have no way of collecting my lost money/parts...(attorney wanted 5k just to begin looking in to it)...
So, this is how I extract my freaking pound of flesh sam Coksukr Zawahara...U f'd me over so until the day I die I will CONTINUE TO bash ur azz everytime I get the chance......
U need some lead n ur diet but I ain't goin' that far...
STAY AWAY FROM GTM FOLKS...LEARN A LESSON FROM ME!!







