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What made you go with one airbox instead of two smaller ones?
good question ... a few things / background / I hope this all makes sense??:
I crossed a bridge about a year ago where I decided that I was going to keep this IC long term. I considered a vertical flow (lower left & lower right IC inlet and a top center IC out) and pair it with something like a corvette/LS engine intake manifold / CJ Motorsports intake plenum as it'd be far less charge pipe (less weight and less turbo lag). But I didnt want to re-engineer (what I believe) is a pretty efficient intake manifold/plenum, cost, hassle factor, etc.
I got on a kick of feeding the engine as cool of air as possible...which means taking air from the front of the car. The passenger side is going to be too congested with the two IC inlet charge pipes.
Also, trying to balance intake track:
SINGLE BOX
Filter to turbo:
Passenger Side = Long
Drivers Side = Short
Turbo to IC:
Passenger Side = Short
Drivers Side = Long
TWO BOXES
Filter to turbo:
Passenger Side = Short
Drivers Side = Short
Turbo to IC:
Passenger Side = Short
Drivers Side = Long
Lastly - I have my previous setup (greddy air filters & 3" intake pipes sitting behind the radiator) and I can/will dyno with each setup to see how engine output differs between intake charge source.
It won't really matter until you get higher up in whp numbers, but will be a good experiment!
yes and no ... I can feel a noticeable difference when I drive the car in 30* weather vs. 90* weather - are these extremes, yes, yes they are... and yes, an experiment for sure - that's all I'm doing! did you see my ambient:intake temps graph?
In reviewing your posts, I saw the AEM device somewhere before. This is a nice read (take with a grain of salt as always as they are pushing their own very expensive pump) on water injection. I used to run an elaborate aquamist fuel-injector signal driven methanol injection system. When I switched to flex fuel I sold it all. The only real way to make power is to increase boost and lean out AFRs but you have to hope that your delivery of water/meth is not interrupted at a bad moment. I was always worried about it. As an extra safety and to cool the intake charge for more consistent power, which is what I think you're using it for, I think it's a great tool.
In reviewing your posts, I saw the AEM device somewhere before. This is a nice read (take with a grain of salt as always as they are pushing their own very expensive pump) on water injection. I used to run an elaborate aquamist fuel-injector signal driven methanol injection system. When I switched to flex fuel I sold it all. The only real way to make power is to increase boost and lean out AFRs but you have to hope that your delivery of water/meth is not interrupted at a bad moment. I was always worried about it. As an extra safety and to cool the intake charge for more consistent power, which is what I think you're using it for, I think it's a great tool.
Raj (I have not formally met you - I'm James) I take everything you (and other high-value members ) pretty serious - your builds and experience exceed mine so it'd be foolish to write-off your advice/guidance.
yea, the water/methanol is a turn-key AEM setup.
With that being said, I dont want to completely 10,000% rely on it as it'll ****-out the one time I need it. I think of it as insurance and a method to keep temps down and do a little cleaning action.
Good deal james. Not knocking what looks to be a solid approach; just providing a source for more data on the subject. Cheers.
Your comments and insight are/is always welcome
Originally Posted by yosip1115
Does your ambient vs AIT graph include only old setups?
yes, the graph is mostly the abnormal greddy filters/pipes combo that sit behind the radiator. I also included (last few data logs) of 3" pipes coming off the turbos with the greddy air filters right behind the radiator.
The new data will overlay on that same graph using different colors ... should be interesting.
I had some issues fitting my oil cooler and two turbo-to-IC pipes so I had to modify a little bit but I should be ready to drive the car by the weekend.
In reviewing your posts, I saw the AEM device somewhere before. This is a nice read (take with a grain of salt as always as they are pushing their own very expensive pump) on water injection. I used to run an elaborate aquamist fuel-injector signal driven methanol injection system. When I switched to flex fuel I sold it all. The only real way to make power is to increase boost and lean out AFRs but you have to hope that your delivery of water/meth is not interrupted at a bad moment. I was always worried about it. As an extra safety and to cool the intake charge for more consistent power, which is what I think you're using it for, I think it's a great tool.
So I've had issues twice now with water entrapment in my intake system.
Yes I'm running a MAF and you aren't, but I wanted to share my experiences since you are running meth injection and the new intake box so close to the ground (yes you don't drive when it's wet, but sht happens sometimes).
Anyway, a few months ago I was talking with you about how I had to take a long drive in torrential downpour, with a missing wheel well since I didn't check the weather for that weekend away. Drivers side greddy intake took in a lot of water that time, like probably 10 fl oz. Once I cleared it out, all was good.
Just this weekend I was cruising around in the rain (with a wheel well this time so I thought I would be fine) and water came in through the seam between the hood and the front bumper then through the radiator support hole since I removed the plastic baffle piece... Much less water than last time luckily. Since it was raining, the car never built boost, and I didn't know there was an issue until the other day when I opened 'er up.
Both cases caused the car to fall on it's face just as boost kicked in, since the water had settled in the IC. It's very violent, and sometimes triggers limp mode. I feel lucky that it has not caused any damage.
To me, this seems extremely dangerous, as a slug of water could make it's way into a cylinder under the right conditions. I think it would be more likely for you, since my car falls on it's face as soon as the MAF gets wet.
For you, the car would keep boosting and pushing a potentially large, uncontrolled amount of settled water into the engine all at once.
So be aware that the water settles in the intercooler, especially when it isn't warm enough to evaporate it like it has been.
Another thing to consider if you are going for pre-turbine injection.
I hear what you're saying...to think the car will never see water is foolish but I think in my case it's unrealistic to think I'll see so much water that it stands in the system and under the right boost combination it ingests into the engine. And in the instances where I do get caught in rain or inclement weather I don't think I'll be pushing the car into serious amounts of boost. But I appreciate what you're saying and it's something to think about when there is moisture around.
Took the car into work Wednesday morning, around 7am ambient temps were 33 to 35 degrees (per the Nissan tri-guage) and my intake air temps were 46 degrees per the haltech. Used about 16 fluid ounces of water/meth between the drive to and from work.
sons of b!tch ... developed a small hairline crack in an oil cooler ... it may be because of some heat related stress when I welded a few bracket holes closed ... regardless...went to put a small tack on the weld and the excess heat (apparently) broke open the core ... so it's scrap...I'll look to replace it pretty quick here. I think I'll look at a setrab to match my pre-turbo cooler but I hate how they are black...
Let me know what you find, I'm still looking to replace my questionable mishimoto "dual pass" that doesn't have the diversion plate from what I can tell.
I'm not sure that this style is a good idea, but ARC makes these and charges $2600 bucks for them lol. Oil to water exchanger like the OEM one on the G35's. I like the thought of being able to mount it anywhere though. Not sure if it would be beneficial or detrimental to implement.
with the new intake track in place, my previous 16" cooling fan was too fat / big. I've already been looking at two smaller fans rather than one large fan. I came across these 6" spals off an Aprilia RSV1000.
Disclaimer - they may be too small (exactly what everyone is thinking) They pull 600cfm where my 16" was 2100cfm ... but on my initial run with them they brought the engine temps down at idle. Caveat being ambient air temp was in the 50*-60* ... so the jury will be out for a while.
Still in the process of fab'ing the bottom portion of the bracket (hence the wire-tie mount)
Let me know what you find, I'm still looking to replace my questionable mishimoto "dual pass" that doesn't have the diversion plate from what I can tell.
I'm not sure that this style is a good idea, but ARC makes these and charges $2600 bucks for them lol. Oil to water exchanger like the OEM one on the G35's. I like the thought of being able to mount it anywhere though. Not sure if it would be beneficial or detrimental to implement.
I'm really not a fan of mixing oil & coolant for the benefit of cooling - my old man had a early 90s MB E190 with a oil to coolant heat exchanger and something inside broke and it seized up his engine...I'll spend $200 on a heat exchanger and $2400 on other things before I buy that particular heat exchanger...I'll get a simple setrab 16 or 25 row replacement.
I'm not a huge fan of mishi stuff in the first place ... are you talking about a oil cooler yea?
02-01-2018, 04:25 PM
