Forged Performance: Engine inspection after 25K miles of abuse
Originally Posted by Quamen
Has anyone tried to o-ring the block yet to get a better seal between the deck and the head gasket?
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
In this example, I am refering to the common Darton MID Sleeve. If you referring to Darton liners, than I have no information or claims on those.
Originally Posted by Quamen
Has anyone tried to o-ring the block yet to get a better seal between the deck and the head gasket?
Originally Posted by Philthy
Shriaf - my car has the Darton liners in them now, and some quick data logging will definitely show a HUGE improvement in cooling compare to the Darton MID kit. I ran both kits and the Darton Liners for a street/roadrace car is the way to go! The Darton MID kit runs 20+ degrees hotter than the stock block or the Darton liners. Now for all out drag setup where the car is only seeing -10 seconds of full throttle, than maybe the MID or better yet, fully sealed closed deck would be the best option.
who is Shriaf??
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From: Marietta, GA
Originally Posted by Philthy
Shriaf - my car has the Darton liners in them now, and some quick data logging will definitely show a HUGE improvement in cooling compare to the Darton MID kit. I ran both kits and the Darton Liners for a street/roadrace car is the way to go! The Darton MID kit runs 20+ degrees hotter than the stock block or the Darton liners. Now for all out drag setup where the car is only seeing -10 seconds of full throttle, than maybe the MID or better yet, fully sealed closed deck would be the best option.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Ah, I completely forgot. The only thing left to do, is to beat the **** out of it on a circuit course to confirm.
Very informative thread! Is there any specific reason why your changing turbo kits as well? From reading on this forum for a while, I see that the JWT kit is best for road racing, but is the greddy kit actually bad for road racing? I never really see anyone using the greddy kit on a road course and was wondering if theres any specific reason...
sick, just sick. i cant believe how clean that is. i cant wait to get past all this bolt on stuff and really build this car, im so excited. the next 365 days are going to be really awesome. seeing stuff like this keeps me really interested and excited about working on this platform. with the supras it was always the same thing over and over and over and except for Leh King and GSC nobody really built them for road racing which i like. im going to be VERY interested to see how you do once you get your new set up rockin.
Originally Posted by rcdash
Quick question George: I understand your stroker will provide more power at any given psi - but at what power level do you recommend moving to the stroker vs sticking to the stock 3.5 (or 3.54L)? Is heat control issues worth the tradeoff in power? Or is heat not so much an issue at 3.8L?
That and it looks cool as well

-George
GT Motorsports
Last edited by GTM; Aug 14, 2007 at 01:42 PM.
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From: Marietta, GA
Originally Posted by George@GTM
Well the main reason I would upgrade to our crank is just not the power added due to the larger displacement, but the fact the it is lights, and mainly, the oil design of this crank is superior to that of the stock crank and actually produces higher oil pressure and better oiling of the engine during extended high RPM usage (road course).
That and it looks cool as well
-George
GT Motorsports
That and it looks cool as well

-George
GT Motorsports
Sharif:
It is always a nice suprise to see mild wear after an engine has gone through anything but mild use! I was pleasantly suprised as well on my last engine that I tore down, didn't have as many miles as yours, but after 12k miles, the bearings just had the superficial coating removed with mild scuffing...
good job
It is always a nice suprise to see mild wear after an engine has gone through anything but mild use! I was pleasantly suprised as well on my last engine that I tore down, didn't have as many miles as yours, but after 12k miles, the bearings just had the superficial coating removed with mild scuffing...
good job
Originally Posted by TENGAI
I don't want to step on somebody else's glory, but there is somebody about to try this in the Mid-A (Northern VA). Maybe they'll chime in, maybe not. But it should be interesting to see it when it's all said and done...
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From: Marietta, GA
Originally Posted by QuicksilverZ33
Very informative thread! Is there any specific reason why your changing turbo kits as well? From reading on this forum for a while, I see that the JWT kit is best for road racing, but is the greddy kit actually bad for road racing? I never really see anyone using the greddy kit on a road course and was wondering if theres any specific reason...
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The Greddy kit was fine when I tracked it. I was just looking to try something a little bit different. I was also thinking that a water cooled/oil cooled GT series BB setup might be a little more reliable than the Greddy setup on the track, but that is speculation on my part.
I think it would be the exact opposite due to the fact that coolant is being cycled through two red hot turbos. Usually water cooled turbos come at the cost of slightly higher coolant temps.
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From: Marietta, GA
Originally Posted by taurran
Have you had problems with bad turbos due to heat?
I think it would be the exact opposite due to the fact that coolant is being cycled through two red hot turbos. Usually water cooled turbos come at the cost of slightly higher coolant temps.
I think it would be the exact opposite due to the fact that coolant is being cycled through two red hot turbos. Usually water cooled turbos come at the cost of slightly higher coolant temps.
So we dont upgrade anymore.It's always a tradeoff, of course....and it will be interesting to find out how much of a tradeoff.
Originally Posted by taurran
Usually water cooled turbos come at the cost of slightly higher coolant temps.



