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Forged Performance: Engine inspection after 25K miles of abuse

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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:14 AM
  #61  
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Cool Sharif. Thanks for sharing. Looks real good.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Quamen
Has anyone tried to o-ring the block yet to get a better seal between the deck and the head gasket?
I don't want to step on somebody else's glory, but there is somebody about to try this in the Mid-A (Northern VA). Maybe they'll chime in, maybe not. But it should be interesting to see it when it's all said and done...
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
In this example, I am refering to the common Darton MID Sleeve. If you referring to Darton liners, than I have no information or claims on those.
Shriaf - my car has the Darton liners in them now, and some quick data logging will definitely show a HUGE improvement in cooling compare to the Darton MID kit. I ran both kits and the Darton Liners for a street/roadrace car is the way to go! The Darton MID kit runs 20+ degrees hotter than the stock block or the Darton liners. Now for all out drag setup where the car is only seeing -10 seconds of full throttle, than maybe the MID or better yet, fully sealed closed deck would be the best option.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:51 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Quamen
Has anyone tried to o-ring the block yet to get a better seal between the deck and the head gasket?
Why? We have found it is not necessary... with a good head gasket like the HKS or Cometic and a set of L19 head studs we haven't had any problems with leakage.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Philthy
Shriaf - my car has the Darton liners in them now, and some quick data logging will definitely show a HUGE improvement in cooling compare to the Darton MID kit. I ran both kits and the Darton Liners for a street/roadrace car is the way to go! The Darton MID kit runs 20+ degrees hotter than the stock block or the Darton liners. Now for all out drag setup where the car is only seeing -10 seconds of full throttle, than maybe the MID or better yet, fully sealed closed deck would be the best option.

who is Shriaf??
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:58 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Philthy
Shriaf - my car has the Darton liners in them now, and some quick data logging will definitely show a HUGE improvement in cooling compare to the Darton MID kit. I ran both kits and the Darton Liners for a street/roadrace car is the way to go! The Darton MID kit runs 20+ degrees hotter than the stock block or the Darton liners. Now for all out drag setup where the car is only seeing -10 seconds of full throttle, than maybe the MID or better yet, fully sealed closed deck would be the best option.
Ah, I completely forgot. The only thing left to do, is to beat the **** out of it on a circuit course to confirm.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 11:05 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Ah, I completely forgot. The only thing left to do, is to beat the **** out of it on a circuit course to confirm.
+100 we vant videos
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #68  
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Great post, Sharif...

Lots of good information in this thread... Looking forward to see how your next engine runs...
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 11:37 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Ah, I completely forgot. The only thing left to do, is to beat the **** out of it on a circuit course to confirm.
LOL listen young padawan, i'll be beating the **** out of you if vids start appearing on the forum of you beating the **** out of my car on a circuit
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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Very informative thread! Is there any specific reason why your changing turbo kits as well? From reading on this forum for a while, I see that the JWT kit is best for road racing, but is the greddy kit actually bad for road racing? I never really see anyone using the greddy kit on a road course and was wondering if theres any specific reason...
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 11:54 AM
  #71  
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sick, just sick. i cant believe how clean that is. i cant wait to get past all this bolt on stuff and really build this car, im so excited. the next 365 days are going to be really awesome. seeing stuff like this keeps me really interested and excited about working on this platform. with the supras it was always the same thing over and over and over and except for Leh King and GSC nobody really built them for road racing which i like. im going to be VERY interested to see how you do once you get your new set up rockin.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Quick question George: I understand your stroker will provide more power at any given psi - but at what power level do you recommend moving to the stroker vs sticking to the stock 3.5 (or 3.54L)? Is heat control issues worth the tradeoff in power? Or is heat not so much an issue at 3.8L?
Well the reason I would upgrade to our crank is just not the power added due to the larger displacement, but the fact the it is lighter, and mainly, the oil design of this crank is superior to that of the stock crank and actually produces higher oil pressure and better oiling of the engine during extended high RPM usage (road course).

That and it looks cool as well

-George
GT Motorsports

Last edited by GTM; Aug 14, 2007 at 01:42 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 12:58 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by George@GTM
Well the main reason I would upgrade to our crank is just not the power added due to the larger displacement, but the fact the it is lights, and mainly, the oil design of this crank is superior to that of the stock crank and actually produces higher oil pressure and better oiling of the engine during extended high RPM usage (road course).

That and it looks cool as well

-George
GT Motorsports
George, tell Sam to ship me a complimentary kit, and I will install it right away.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 01:23 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
George, tell Sam to ship me a complimentary kit, and I will install it right away.
Sharif,

I will call Sam right now
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 01:47 PM
  #75  
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Sharif:
It is always a nice suprise to see mild wear after an engine has gone through anything but mild use! I was pleasantly suprised as well on my last engine that I tore down, didn't have as many miles as yours, but after 12k miles, the bearings just had the superficial coating removed with mild scuffing...

good job
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:17 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by TENGAI
I don't want to step on somebody else's glory, but there is somebody about to try this in the Mid-A (Northern VA). Maybe they'll chime in, maybe not. But it should be interesting to see it when it's all said and done...
Dang you know who it is too.....................and he said dont tell anybody. Btw looks like a mean setup for the track sharif.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:41 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by QuicksilverZ33
Very informative thread! Is there any specific reason why your changing turbo kits as well? From reading on this forum for a while, I see that the JWT kit is best for road racing, but is the greddy kit actually bad for road racing? I never really see anyone using the greddy kit on a road course and was wondering if theres any specific reason...
The Greddy kit was fine when I tracked it. I was just looking to try something a little bit different. I was also thinking that a water cooled/oil cooled GT series BB setup might be a little more reliable than the Greddy setup on the track, but that is speculation on my part.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The Greddy kit was fine when I tracked it. I was just looking to try something a little bit different. I was also thinking that a water cooled/oil cooled GT series BB setup might be a little more reliable than the Greddy setup on the track, but that is speculation on my part.
Have you had problems with bad turbos due to heat?

I think it would be the exact opposite due to the fact that coolant is being cycled through two red hot turbos. Usually water cooled turbos come at the cost of slightly higher coolant temps.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 03:07 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by taurran
Have you had problems with bad turbos due to heat?

I think it would be the exact opposite due to the fact that coolant is being cycled through two red hot turbos. Usually water cooled turbos come at the cost of slightly higher coolant temps.
I went through a couple sets of 60-1's that had upgraded Greddy turbos. That was an expensive lesson. I have had zero "standard" Greddy turbo failures, but a handful when we upgrade to the larger wheels. So we dont upgrade anymore.

It's always a tradeoff, of course....and it will be interesting to find out how much of a tradeoff.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by taurran
Usually water cooled turbos come at the cost of slightly higher coolant temps.
just curious... where have you seen that? because ive always been under the opposite impression as well, it may get a little hotter but the difference shouldnt matter much when compared to the benifit of the added cooling to the turbo. i know a lot of japanese tuners who use mitsu-styled or non watercooled turbos often run them at far less boost pressure during track days than what the car is tuned for, but the tuners using water cooled BB style turbos almost always run them at or very close to what they tune them at.
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