Can someone explain how to remove the stock wheel studs?Im trying to install some spacers wich require longer wheel studs.Thank you to whom ever responds.

 

the only way I have ever seen is to bang them out with a hammer, but that was on a GM. Probably the same.

 

Any update?

 

yep... bang the hell out of them with a 5lb sledge hammer...

You have to remove the calipers and rotors to get to the studs

then... spray a little rust remover on them and let that soak in

after that... hammer away!

you will notice a notch in the hub behind the studs... line up the stud with that notch so that you can slide the stud out backwards.

insert the new studs the same way..

I put four large washers over the new stud, put on the OEM lug nut and used my impact to tighten the lug nut onto the stud... keep hitting it with the impact to seat the new stud into its housing


Hope that helps,

PeteH

 

I would not advise you "bang the hell out of them with a 5lb sledge hammer" as you will most likely bend the wheel flange. Most wheel studs should be removed using a hydraulic press which means the hubs will have to be removed from the car and taken to a machine shop. I will look in the service manual to see it is gives some more details.

 

Did the manual say anything?

 

will ask tech on monday.

 

Please keep us advised. I stripped one of my studs on the rear wheel by accident and need to remove it also. Isearched the shop manual and found nothing.

Thanks in advance for the info.
Jeff

 

Bump... Jason?

 

I looked on the FSM and I didn't see anything specific so I am staying with my first assumption.

 

Quote from Performance Nissan:

"
Just got back from talking with 2 different tech's here.

They both say they use a BRASS Mallet. It basicly looksl ike a large rubber hammer with brass on the tips.

They say they just need one good wack and they will come out.
"

 

Thanks for the info. One question, is there a reason the mallet should have a brass on the tip versus a steel hammer etc? I am assuming that brass is used because it is a soffter metal?

Is there anything I should be careful of when I start "wacking" (besides my thumb).

Jeff

 

Someone recommended taking the hubs off first. Sounds like a safe idea if they don't come out easily. Also thus easier to knock in the new studs instead of trying to seat them by screwing on the lug nuts tightly!

Read Audito350Z's post above for some extra insight.

 

How hard is it to remove the hub ?

 

I believe they recomended the Brass because it is a softer metal and will have some "give" in it. The end of the hammer looked like you can see every mark from where they bashed the wheel studs.

You should make sure you are hitting the wheel studs head on and not at an angle so you bend them.

 

PANCHOVILLA, it's not too hard for the front hub. Here are the steps:
1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove 2 caliper bolts at back of caliper (TOUGH). Remove and support caliper to not stretch brake line. Secure bolts later at 95ft-lbs.
3. Remove rotor.
4. Remove 4 bolts at back of wheel hub. For one of them you'll have to pull out the hub a little to finish losening since the steering knuckle gets in the way. Secure bolts later at 65ft-lbs.
The hub will be off now.
5. Place Hub at an angle and hit the studs out with a hammer. I wouldn't place it with the studs straight up and banging down, that will probably break something.
6. Place in the new stud and hammer it in the best you can. I suggest taking the old stud and hammer on that on top of the new stud.

Best done when upgrading your brakes

For the rear, it's harder. Same first three steps but need to remove the parking break first. To get to the bolts for the hub, you need to get past the axle and I didn't figure that out since I don't think I need longer studs on the rear.

 

Wondering if you were able to do this without removing the front hub?

 

I have changed mine a number of times and one shot with a 3 lb short handel hammer and thet pop out. I have done this over the past 2 years with no bearing problems.

 

Did you have to take the hub off the car to do it?

 

The hub removal is overkill. the stud just does't take that much of a hit to dislodge. You do have to remove the caliper and rotors. Orient the stud to remove at an opening and you can nock out the old one and install the new one. I still use the standard length and that is the longest stud that will fit without additional disassembly in the rear of the parking brake. I also use an impact wrench and spacer with a lug to sinch up the new stud.