Help... removing wheel studs
#21
Cool, thanks. I've got air tools but I didn't want to have to disassemble a ton of stuff just to change one stud. I think I'm going to buy a tap and die set and try to repair the thread first.
#22
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now that ive done this on the z33 its very easy...
Basicly just need to tap out the broken stud.. The rear brake dust shield has a cut out where you can push the old stud out and pull the new one through...
Its easy...
Remove wheel... Remove brake caliper, remove rotor... Tap out wheel studs, pull new through... I would put the rotor / caliper back on and then take an open ended lug nut with a few washers under it... Torque it down until it pulls the new studd through...
Put wheel back on... Take car out for a quick spin... re-torque lugs and you should be good togo!
Basicly just need to tap out the broken stud.. The rear brake dust shield has a cut out where you can push the old stud out and pull the new one through...
Its easy...
Remove wheel... Remove brake caliper, remove rotor... Tap out wheel studs, pull new through... I would put the rotor / caliper back on and then take an open ended lug nut with a few washers under it... Torque it down until it pulls the new studd through...
Put wheel back on... Take car out for a quick spin... re-torque lugs and you should be good togo!
#23
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since I have now spent way over $500 in getting wheel studs replaced because of those fn Shank Lug nuts for my prostars I need to learn how to do this myself...I broke one off again today at the track when changing back to street tires.
How do you remove the Caliper and the Rotor in order to get to punch out the stud?
How do you remove the Caliper and the Rotor in order to get to punch out the stud?
#24
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Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
now that ive done this on the z33 its very easy...
Basicly just need to tap out the broken stud.. The rear brake dust shield has a cut out where you can push the old stud out and pull the new one through...
Its easy...
Remove wheel... Remove brake caliper, remove rotor... Tap out wheel studs, pull new through... I would put the rotor / caliper back on and then take an open ended lug nut with a few washers under it... Torque it down until it pulls the new studd through...
Put wheel back on... Take car out for a quick spin... re-torque lugs and you should be good togo!
Basicly just need to tap out the broken stud.. The rear brake dust shield has a cut out where you can push the old stud out and pull the new one through...
Its easy...
Remove wheel... Remove brake caliper, remove rotor... Tap out wheel studs, pull new through... I would put the rotor / caliper back on and then take an open ended lug nut with a few washers under it... Torque it down until it pulls the new studd through...
Put wheel back on... Take car out for a quick spin... re-torque lugs and you should be good togo!
Be sure you knock the stud out of place threw the proper slot designed to let the stud slide out.
#25
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I have to do this project this weekend. Last time i was working on my car on axels, I could not get the rotor off. I think i may have had the parking brake on. Aside from that, is there anything else that will help me get the rotor off easier??
Thanks,
jon
Thanks,
jon
#26
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Originally Posted by JonathanG35
I have to do this project this weekend. Last time i was working on my car on axels, I could not get the rotor off. I think i may have had the parking brake on. Aside from that, is there anything else that will help me get the rotor off easier??
Thanks,
jon
Thanks,
jon
Thanks,
Derek
#27
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remove wheel
disengage parking brake
remove rotor - slides right off
hammer out old wheel studs.
wiggle new studs in
carefully replace rotor w/o knocking studs out
use a lug nut to pull it tight through the slot by tightening the nut down on the lug.
I got some washers to go between the rotor and lug nut to get it pulled all the way through.
Turned out too be real easy
disengage parking brake
remove rotor - slides right off
hammer out old wheel studs.
wiggle new studs in
carefully replace rotor w/o knocking studs out
use a lug nut to pull it tight through the slot by tightening the nut down on the lug.
I got some washers to go between the rotor and lug nut to get it pulled all the way through.
Turned out too be real easy
#28
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When we installed the wheel spacers we ONLY removed 2 bolts on the back of the calipers. We removed the wheel hob without taking 4 bolts. Hammered the studs and it came off easily.
#29
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Originally Posted by JonathanG35
remove wheel
disengage parking brake
remove rotor - slides right off
hammer out old wheel studs.
wiggle new studs in
carefully replace rotor w/o knocking studs out
use a lug nut to pull it tight through the slot by tightening the nut down on the lug.
I got some washers to go between the rotor and lug nut to get it pulled all the way through.
Turned out too be real easy
disengage parking brake
remove rotor - slides right off
hammer out old wheel studs.
wiggle new studs in
carefully replace rotor w/o knocking studs out
use a lug nut to pull it tight through the slot by tightening the nut down on the lug.
I got some washers to go between the rotor and lug nut to get it pulled all the way through.
Turned out too be real easy
Thanks
#30
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No Hub removal !!!--Brass hammer is fine but I use a ball peen and works well for me. Fronts are a snap as said --Just look for that notch so u can pull them out.
The rears are a little more tricky---U really have to get the E-Brake shoes out of the way --Take ur time and lay out ur springs so they go back in the same place, Make sure u lay down ur star adjuster so it goes back the same way it came out. Nows a good time to lube the threads of the adjuster. and make any small adjustment u mite want to adjust the shoes.
This is the important part---Put ur new studs in and rotor. The studs wont go all the way in because they are a press fit. take an old lug nut and thread it in and in sequence titen it there by "pulling " the studs in. Best to put a little antisieze on the knurled part of the stud.After u get them pulled put ur rims back on and torque them down ---I use a 100 ft Lbs. Throw ur torque wrench in the back of the car. Take a ride to ur old ladys place or to Burger King for a double meat cheese whopper extra cheeze no pickles or what ever. Eat it and torque ur lugs again. Go home --go to bed-- get up in the morn and go to work. After work chk the torque one more time.
BTW ---stock stud length is easiest but with the above deal Im generally going back with 50 or 60 mm studs
The rears are a little more tricky---U really have to get the E-Brake shoes out of the way --Take ur time and lay out ur springs so they go back in the same place, Make sure u lay down ur star adjuster so it goes back the same way it came out. Nows a good time to lube the threads of the adjuster. and make any small adjustment u mite want to adjust the shoes.
This is the important part---Put ur new studs in and rotor. The studs wont go all the way in because they are a press fit. take an old lug nut and thread it in and in sequence titen it there by "pulling " the studs in. Best to put a little antisieze on the knurled part of the stud.After u get them pulled put ur rims back on and torque them down ---I use a 100 ft Lbs. Throw ur torque wrench in the back of the car. Take a ride to ur old ladys place or to Burger King for a double meat cheese whopper extra cheeze no pickles or what ever. Eat it and torque ur lugs again. Go home --go to bed-- get up in the morn and go to work. After work chk the torque one more time.
BTW ---stock stud length is easiest but with the above deal Im generally going back with 50 or 60 mm studs
Last edited by Eazzy; 09-13-2006 at 07:42 PM.
#31
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Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
I believe they recomended the Brass because it is a softer metal and will have some "give" in it. The end of the hammer looked like you can see every mark from where they bashed the wheel studs.
You should make sure you are hitting the wheel studs head on and not at an angle so you bend them.
You should make sure you are hitting the wheel studs head on and not at an angle so you bend them.
#32
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Originally Posted by Lawn Dart
Hitting the studs with a steel hammer causes the studs to "mushroom" and widen the hole.
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