My A-pillar trim is broken into two pieces. I plan to "glue" the pieces together and put a fiberglass patch on the back. What adhesive should I use for gluing the two pieces together? For now, I'm planning to use the same epoxy that I use for the patch. Thanks.

 

I recommend Loctite HY 4070 for bonding the two pieces back together. Fiberglass patch seems like a lot more work. I suggest plastic welding with some wire screen mesh as a reinforcement for the back side. This method really depends on how thick the plastic piece is, you don't want to melt through and deform the painted outer section. But I have had excellent results plastic welding broken interior pieces. Very strong repair when used with wire staples or wire mesh. If you can, I would recommend finding a used replacement A-pillar piece from a salvage yard.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

How in the world did the A-pillar get broken in the first place?

 

Thanks. That product looks pretty good. It's expensive so hopefully it can be stored. I think the part is too thin to weld.

 

The HY 4070 worked great, although only time will really tell. I also put a couple fiberglass patches on the back to add strength. When I removed the trim, I learned that five clip housings were broken and the plastic was separated all along the trim (see picture). I used the HY 4070 to "tack" along the separated plastic and then standard JB Weld for the repair. I'm going to try to replace the clip housings with some plastic pieces I got at the hardware store and modified with a Dremel. I'm nervous about gluing those on because if they aren't lined up just right the trim might go back on crooked. I also bought some replacement rubber trim to fit between the A pillar trim and roof, but need to refinish the glue seam before applying it.

 

Interesting 1121.43 before taxes & s/h

 

Glad your A-pillar repair worked out well, but still curious how it was broken in the first place? I'd just like to know in order to avoid such damage in the future.

 

How is everything now?

 

Both mine ended up braking due to weight/pressure.. 1st was me leaning against it (cracked near the end and almost sepereated the entire lip), did not put much pressre at all.. 2nd was with my small nephew getting out the window (after loading it on a trailer) and applying pressure on the pillar - split down the center.

Guess the plastic pillars dislike 15+ years of Florida sun and being touched..

 

Hey there!I think using epoxy adhesive is a really solid idea, Epoxy holds strong, and adding fiberglass patch on the back will reinforce it even more, Just make sure both pieces are clean before you apply itIt’s good to wait for full curing time, By the way, be careful not to over do it with the glue, as it might ooze out and look messy, Once it’s dried, you can sand it down nicely, Good luck!

 

Thanks, I have to use that piece to help pull myself through the rollcage of the Z33 racecar. I try not to put too much pressure on it as I pull past the side impact bars, but there's nothing else to reach to egress. The racecar usually lives in the garage or trailer, but I bet lots of UV exposure will weaken the composite material.

 

I'm not completely done with the repair so can't report on how well it went back on or if it holds up. I just epoxied the replacement clips onto the trim and still need to sand and paint the exterior of the crack (and fill some small holes where paint chipped off) and replace the rubber trim that goes between the trim and roof.

As to why it broke, I don't really know. I expect it is some combination of 21 years of sun on black paint and the earlier improper removal. My son first noticed the crack after his girlfriend slammed the door, but that was probably the straw that broke the camel's back rather than the root cause.

 

I've head excellent results with HY 4070. I used it to repair a spun nutsert on a Honda plastic valve cover (among many other things). It's still holding strong. Obviously treat anything glued back together with some caution & care. HY 4070 is less brittle than most Epoxies on the market, but it it still doesn't like to be flexed/bent. I especially like the precision applicator tips that mix the solution, this makes it ideal for small piece repairs. You can also build it up as a gap filler and when cured it can be cleanly sanded smooth.

My typical repair method on plastics is to use the 4070 as the initial bonding agent to hold the pieces back together, then I follow-up with my plastic welder for a strong permanent repair. As mentioned before, these sill panels are extremely thin, which doesn't make them a good candidate for plastic welding. I really wish some aftermarket companies would step up and start producing replicas of these pieces. The OEM prices are outrageous, making salvage yards the only reasonable option, but still has major risks. Simply removing one of these panels without prior knowledge/experience is a daunting task. There's a very high chance of cracking/breaking the piece if you don't know exactly where to apply pressure, and how much. You also need the right set of panel removal tools. You cannot rush the process. I'm sure that when new, these pieces were more flexible/elastic, but due to age and UV exposure they have the consistency of a Pringles Chip.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Icer, What do you think of using that Loctite to fill a small hole like in the picture? Would Bondo glazing and spot putty be better? Thanks.

 

Yes, you could use the Loctite for something that small, no issue. Might take 2-3 layers of application. You could probably achieve the same results with some kind of Bondo filler. The Bondo will sand back easier vs. the Loctite, so it all depends on what level of quality finish you want, are you planning to repaint?
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Thanks. I think I'm going to go with the Bondo as there are probably other small holes along the crack and it will be easier to spread Bondo along the crack than to try to fill holes with the Loctite. The car is wrapped, so I just need a smooth and non-absorbent finish for now.