OK. Understood. Thanks

If I take the inspection route, I'll take pics and post.

 

cant find it in the service manual. I need to get my ur pulley off!

thanks Ibz! Id greatly appreciate it

 

OK -

Item 17 in the attached....Rick

em 28.pdf

 

Found a 18" breaker bar, 1/2 drive, and got a 24 inch pipe to use as a handle. Bolt on the alternator pulley appears to be a 24 mm, 22 mm too small. Pepboys said they would swap the pulleys on the alternator if I brought it down there.

Neighbor not available to help out with the brake and I don't have the time today. Will do a procedure with pics next week as I will be better prepared.

 

thanks! so i just feed a breaker bar through the hole to lock the gears up? any fluids to deal with? how strong are the gears?

 

I almost started bawling, cuz I couldn't take the crank pulley off, not with a breaker bar, not with a harmonic balancer wrench... I tried for hours... took it to performance nissan.

 

Yes - with just enough pressure to not allow it to turn as you break it loose.

No fluids - and they can handle plenty of power - considering they have to handle about 170-180lbs for torqueing...done it many times...no issue.

Rick

 

It takes two people - or a good vise if off the car. You can use large channel locks with a towel to protect the ribs on the pulley. Have someone hold the pulley as you break it loose. You can do it on the car, from underneath.

Rick

 

i tried takin out my UR pulley today and failed. i called wcn and they said leave the car on the ground in 6th gear, have someone hit the breaks while another guy just breaks it open with a breaker bar. but it didnt work, idk what else to do, HELP

 

same for me! rear end just raised up. Sucks ***

 

idk what to man, i need to take it out really soon and sell it

 

Have you tried to wedge a pry bar into the instpection plate and go from there?

 

...que??? what plate???

 

abla english????

 

Post number 23 -

BTW - between PM's and thread responses - you're getting this in stereo!

 

Underneath the car on the transmission there is a hole where you can view the clutch. That's what he's talking about above.

 

It's actually on the block, driver's side...where the trans housing bolts up and you can see the flywheel teeth...that's where you wedge the pry bar.

You can also put the car in reverse and keep the break on - same thing really, better to use the inspection plate.

IF ALL ELSE FAILS - you don't want to take it to a shop or tow it, etc...you CAN always do the ignition click method - though as I've said, I would NEVER advise of it.

Rick

 

Sorry, block not tranny.

 

No prob!

I've changed the pulleys in my car about 7 times - really! When Na - I went from UR pulleys, back to stock, to a custom set of UR's and back to stock (that's 4), to the KJR when first FI, and then to UR stock size, and finally back to stock...(that's 7).

The first 2 times we did this - we did the ignition click method - on the 2nd removal - they key-way was toasted and the timing gear on bank 1 jumped a tooth. Well - 5 days later when we got the car back together again (including a new chain, guides, adjusters and sprockets), we learned of the inspection plate. I tell ya - expensive and time consuming lesson there!!!

I still have 2 crank pulley's and an accessory set too...

Rick

 

this worked for me. i just put a 2x4 against the brake pedal and it took me a good 30 minutes of strenuous yanking put it finally popped off....keep trying