Putting in the full UR pulley set. Need some help. Anyone in the 310/562/714/949 area available today or tomorrow?

I Can't get the main pulley nut to break, using a breaker bar and helper.
Also having trouble getting the alternator out. Not a big job for anyone with experience but a chance for some qwik cash.

 

try this trick:

using a breaker bar, put it on the pulley nut and lower it close to the ground. The end should be on the left side of the car (driver side). Lower the car a bit so that the bar is sitting on the 3-5 o clock position and in firm contact with the ground. Sit in the car and give it a few clicks on the ignition. dont turn it too long as to start the car. It should loosen the nut within 3-4 trys.

warning tho! I installed a ur pulley about a yr or so ago and im now unable to remove it with a 4ft bar or the click method. I used anti seize when i installed the bolt originally.

gl and let us know how it goes.

 

Friend has an impact wrench and compressor. Taking it over there in the morning. Put everything else back together again but now belts squealing like a banshee. Very loud. The tensioner on the right is about where it was when I started, alternator one was never touched. Any suggesions?

 

in order to get the impact on there youll have to take the fans out. You will have to disc a rad hose and will drop some coolant. I tried to get my impact wrench on mine but it was too long and wouldnt fit w/o taking the radiator out as well.

As far as the tensioner, you have the adjuster bolt on the bottom and the bolt on the face of the pulley. Loosen the bolt on the pulley and then tighten the bolt on the bottom to add tension on the pulley. tigten the nut on the pulley and crank the car. do it in increments until the belt doesnt squell.

 

I took the fan out when I got started and yeah, had to disconnect rad hose. It's all put back together now. The squealing stopped after a bit, I figure maybe was from the coolant that splashed around... but now the heater doesnt work.... wtf? I put coolant in to fill it up and ran the car for awhile, no unusual temp indication but no heat coming out of the heater...

Then I noticed the Service engine light come on but realized I had started the car w/o the MAF sensor connected. Disconnected the battery, reconnected the MAF sensor, reconnected the battery and that went away.

I decided I'm going to take it to Super Autobacs and have them do it. I'll have to pay but I'll have more confidence that it was done right and if something were to go wrong at my friend's place, well that would be a real suck fest.

I know on the one hand, that it would probably be real ez to get done, esp with the impact wrench, but after today, with nothing really accomplished, I'm feeling this is the better way to go.

I'll check for belt noise in the morning and if it comes up, I'll follow your suggestion to eliminate it. I didn't understand the part about loosening the bolt on the front of the idler pulley, but makes sense now.

 

when i had to refill my rad i ran the car with the radiator cap off and filled from the cap. got the air out and worked fine.

So did you get the impact wrench on there? Is it air or battery?

Imo, id sell the UR pulley and not even deal with it. Itd be more of a headache then its prolly worth. Ill give mine away to anyone that can get it off with no harm to the crank/car. I want it off that bad.

 

Thats how I re-filled it, let the air bubble out... After letting it run for awhile, I noticed some steam coming off the front, figured it was from water on the radiator.. then remembered I had forgot to plug in the fans... shut down, plugged them in, still no heat. Temp gauge at normal position so I figure nothing is damaged.

Impact wrench is compressor driven, but at a friends place. Was going to go there tomorow but figured to go to west covina nissan instead. Same friend recommended super autobacs for the install but they won't install it unless they sell it. They want another $100 more. screw that.

Why do you want to get rid of the pulley? I'm thinking maybe just return it and forget about it.

 

im going with a vortech sc, which underdriving it kinda defeats the purpose of a sc.

I mean, what kind of gain will you really get from it? I wanted to go all out n/a but just got dissapointed from the lack of solid gains for the $.

 

I've read that it's anywhere from 5 - 12 HP. I think it was more about wanting to work on the car this weekend and I've read good things in the postings...

I guess the upside is I learned about belts and a little bit more about my Z. I sent a PM to Jeff at West Covina asking for a quote on the labor, just to see.

Probably take it all back and put the money into an exhaust...

 

took me awhile to get the nut off too but with determination and the right amount of force it will break loose. spray some wd-40 and make sure the car is cool. if all else fail attach a pipe to the end of the bar for more leverage.

 

I've decided to give it another go using a pipe and a big a$$ breaker bar with a 3/4" drive. Thanks for the tip on the WD40. Also, as part of my lack of prep yesterday, I didn't have anti-sieze compound on hand and I didn't have a plan to deal with the alternator bolt.

The instructions say to remove the alternator for ease of removing the bolt. I don't have a vice, not sure how I'm going to get that thing loose as the alternator will surely turn, but there's a pep boys within walking distance. Going to check in there first thing and see if they will be able to get it off for me if I walk it in. Looks like the bolt is a 21mm but not sure. Maybe I'll try it while it's still mounted...

 

no need to remove the alternator. u have to use the 3/4 inch drive breaker bar. youll break the bolt and the u have to pull it off. sometimes it will slide right off and sometimes you have to stick a screwdriver in between the pulley and the block and just screw around with it. get under the car and all sides of the pulley, sometimes it can be a *****

 

I'm doing all 3 pulleys, not just the main. Will I be able to get the pulley off the alternator without removing the altnerator? Do you know the size of the bolt on the alternator holding the pulley on? It's bigger than the 19mm that is holding the main on but I don't have anything bigger than 19mm. Have to go buy one and wanted to know the size before I go.

 

WAIT!!!

NEVER try to do the engine click-over to break the pulley loose. You'll blow the keyway out and more!

The proper way to do this is via the transmission inspection site. This is located on the drivers side of the car, front part of the trans, lower right area. It's basically round with 2 single bolt holding the plate on.

Remove the plate - wedge a breaker bar in the gears and then undo the pulley nut. A breaker bar works well.

Cranking it over with a breaker bar is a really bad idea, can cause the engine to skip teeth on the timing chain, etc...

Rick

 

Thanks. I'll take a look at this. Was not going to attempt the engine click over method. Getting the breaker bar in there like you describe, would I then just need a decent 3/4" wratchet to break the bolt loose?

 

Yep - remember that pulley's factory TQ is over 170'lbs...

 

Thanks. Yeah, I have a torque wrench.

170 lbs? Instructions say 29-36 ft-lbs for the first step and then the additional 60-66 degrees rotation.

 

rick, got any pics?

can you describe the wedge a bit more?

 

That's correct....for the UR pulley - they don't specify actual TQ - just degrees. The factory pulley spec is about 172'lbs.

Rick

 

I don't sorry...it's the flywheel inspection plate - lower right side of trans facing toward the froint of the car.

Rick