idk man i tried somthign liek that and it didnt work. all the pulleys were spinning

 

it should lock, thats weird. brake firmly pressed down and car in 6th gear the pulley should lock, it will have a lil play but otherwise it should lock

 

lol u wanna come over and do it for me

 

lol, maybe you could bring it by my place, let me just get some free time

 

when lol

 

Well, I FINALLY got it done! The main bolt was a bit of a bish. I had the breaker bar with a 2 ft pipe over it and had gone pretty much from one side all the way over to the other side and it would not break loose.

I decided to take a break and then went back and managed to fit the socket on one more point to the right and when I came across again, about 3/4 of the way, it popped.

Am going to try and put together a procedure with the best sequence of events (with pics), based on this experience, to save time and effort for anyone else

Was a bit surprised but glad when no noise from any of the belts after I started it up. Learned some more good stuff with this mod, especially about planning ahead.

 

did you use the transmission inspection plate procedure?

 

mike finally got his off too. i sent him over to my brothers autoshop and they broke it loose. it was just tightened on reallly bad. note: to those who install aftermarket pulleys, only tighten them down to the specified torque using a torque wrench. using any other kind of tool will cause u pain later on

 

Actually - many aftermarket pulleys do not come with TQ specs - rather than degree specs - like the UR pulleys. The factory pulley has TQ specs..

Rick

 

I didn't use the inspection plate method though I began to consider it when the first big try did not work. I found the plate but after crawling out from under I figure to give it another go and then great success!

UR came with both a torque spec, as a first step, and then the degree spec.