mikes10

hmmm..... - i would assume they would simply apologize and ship you a new one, - take your old one back and sell the platinum or get a refund from their supplier - or both - but meh... maybe to much time has passed or installation is in question or something ... dunno -

If you cat is damaged it will fall out in pieces or chunks is what they are proposing - this is assuming it is damaged in such a way that chunks could fall out, and assuming whatever has broken out hasn't blown out the tailpipe.

i bet locally you are looking at like a 60 dollar job to repair it, that includes adding a tab and any other supports needed.

I'm thinking about using Pat's guy - my guy Kens closed

travlee

iTrader: (8)

i bought them straight from kinetix racing, so i am dealing with manufacturer... he said that unless the inside is damaged they would just reweld and send it back. so looking back my rattling that i thought was the ceramic was prob just the weld breakin and the two pieces moving. i am going saturday to have alamo autosports pull it off (only charging $40) and if nothing is falling out i am going to have them reweld it, i have all the emails from kinetix saying it is okay for a shop to weld and it wont void warranty.

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

I'd say that's shitty of kinetix. I've read around that they aren't good test pipes. I'd just get a different set.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

one of the reasons i went with them was the "lifetime" warranty, but it is what is it now, i can ***** and complain or just fix it.

if i send it in, i will have to wait for them to reweld it and get it back, or i can just have someone local reweld it for prob the same amount that shipping would be and have it done that day.... makes more sense to do that.

not to mention i am really tired of my check engine light being on!

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

^What I've been saying from the get go.

And from my experience (I'm on my 6th test pipes, all except last of which have been broken and rewelded multiple times before being replaced), the brace doesn't help.
Why would any self-preserving business want to apologize, let alone ship him a new one, for something he broke? It's highly doubtful that the crack happened by itself.
You didn't expect any more than that, right? Warranty doesn't mean you get free replacements.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

yeah you were right (as usual), and really on the brace???? that sucks, and no i didnt expect more.... i wasnt sure what i was expecting to be honest

i am not sure how the crack happened, and at this point it really doesnt matter, i baby my car and there is only one little scuff on the cat itself so its not like i bottomed out on anything, maybe the exhaust swinging before i secured it caused the crack, who knows

i dont have the means to take the cat off myself and take somewhere to get welded so i am going to have to pay someone to take it off, weld and reinstall

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

^ That must've been some bad luck, considering you baby your car and never bottomed out. Travis, I don't know exactly where the crack is or what it looks like, but for the most part, you should have enough room there for the welder to do his job. Unless the pipe is completely severed or the crack has almost made its way around, you can leave it on the car and just take it to a shop.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

here are a couple of pics, my guess it is might have to be dropped

https://my350z.com/forum/9889730-post26051.html

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

The top of the pipe might be harder for the welder, but doesn't look like taking off the part will be a necessity. Since it's driveable, why not take it to a local exhaust shop and see what they say? They'll put it on a lift, take a look at it, then give you an estimate.

You can fix this 3 ways:
- MIG weld: cheap or free, 1 or 2 minutes to weld, not the prettiest result
- TIG weld: slightly more $, part needs to be taken off, takes slightly longer, better looking weld, some TIG welders don't properly TIG weld to save time/effort
- completely replace: most expensive, most time consuming, cleanest result

AllstarE4

iTrader: (5)

I've seen the cat and it's cracks. It's coming apart at the weld (the factory weld). It will have to be removed to get a proper weld on it to seal it all the way around. It's really just the same problem that almost all 350Z cats from an early design had. There's no flex joint in there so the weakest point is going to give. I don't believe the internals are falling apart at all - that's a whole other nasty sound.

It is slightly disappointing that Kinetix is handling it the way they are. So much for a "warranty".

For what it's worth, I've had Ultimate Racing HFCs on my car for over 5 years. Only complaint with them is they're a little bit "pingy" when cold. Kind of exotic sounding though.

AcidJake75

iTrader: (64)

^^^UR HFC's are the best IMO - I could never find them used though..

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Travis, f*ck it, just get the ART pipes. With all the OT you do, I'm sure you can get it in your hands soon enough!

Personally, I think they're going to crack at or around the new welds sooner or later.

mikes10

Hey Chris - there are a ton of angles to expect and so on - I was thinking just on the idea that there was a failure at a weld they did themselves - they would be curious to do some QC and provide some worry free customer service - which does two things, shows they care - and made it easy for the customer. - Granted that isn't cheap - so you'd have to assume that cost was planned and rolled into the sale price. - very high level opinion but one I thought would be common place -

At any rate - I think there are many who would hear and see those pictures - listen to what was done and think to themselves.... hmm maybe i buy elsewhere - which - ultimately may be what kinetix wants haha

good greif how long have you guys owned your cars - I think chris said he was born in his

travlee

iTrader: (8)

so the art pipes are the way to go huh..... and no doubt ont the OT, i had 20 hours of it last week alone and when i left work today i was already at 29 hours for the week, should hit ot at 4p tomorrow. i would jump all over them in a couple weeks, should be a fat check... BUT going on vaca first week in dec so all my toys are put on hold for now

here is something i have thought about, if going from cats to test pipes, would i have to re-tune?

Mike - i have had my car 15 months

mikes10

i'm gaining on you! --- I think test pipes and an osiris tune are the way to go Trav -- or at least thats my plan

fithamoto

iTrader: (24)

Yikes....Here comes another Pat !

AllstarE4

iTrader: (5)

Travis - Yes you'll want to re-tune with test pipes.

On a side note I just listed my bike on Craigslist
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/mcy/3296686756.html

travlee

iTrader: (8)

is that a challenge mike?!?!?!?! i am more than likely not going to swap to test pipes, once i get that re-welded it is going to be fine for now, when it cracks again then i will see what my other options are.

mikes10

i have no plans to drive a genesis device - http://en.memory-alpha.org/wiki/Genesis_Device -

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

LOL, I might as well have.
Considering how long I've had it, not to mention the time/effort I've put into it, I'd be very sad if I ever let it go. It's my baby.
I only recommend ART because of the R/D that Tony@Motordyne has done. It's honestly the only real cat-replacement part that has any real engineering behind it. Not only that, Tony will explain the basic principles and theories for his designs, which is pure awesome if you're into learning and understanding the technical ****. This is in addition to having a top notch service and actually having a product that makes more power than just test pipes. With that being said, however, I personally wouldn't buy it -- not enough gains/$ over test pipes for my cheap ***.

A tune is not a necessity for most basic bolt-ons and it won't yield much extra horsepower at the peak or under the curve. Without getting too technical, you're simply relieving the system of back pressure when you switch from cats to straight pipes, which ultimately results in your engine running slightly leaner. However, the change isn't all that drastic for NA applications, especially on our Zs and can be handled by the factory tune, thus it isn't enough to warrant a complete retune. Save that for last.

It certainly is preferable, yes, but you know how I'm all about efficiency (which also translates into value). A tune will not yield enough gains to be cost effective at this point for you, imho.