3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Mike, using a SMPTE drop-frame timecode on my video editing software, the quickest lap time that day for me was 2:07. Shaved about 3-5 seconds from my last time out there. Not too bad for noob to that track.

JaE, get me a fresh set of Brembos and I will "professionally stain" them brown for you as well.

Q, yes, the rotors/pads/fluid all need to be replaced. I don't know if resurfacing the rotors will even be worth the time/effort considering my fronts rotors are $50 AutoZone blanks and the rears are Centric blanks.

AllstarE4

iTrader: (5)

Chris - my knowledge and experience are limited on the brake issue, but my two cents:

When we did the track day at ECR in December I remember Pat's brembos doing the same thing. My brakes smoked, but the calipers didn't discolor. I think Mike may be right about the pads being too aggressive. My stoptech street pads smoked like crazy, but didn't heat up enough to discolor the calipers.

With that said, I wasn't pushing as hard as you guys because I was reaching tire limit sooner. However, I still have a hunch it's the pads.

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Damn they sure weren't lying when they said HPDE events are a rich man's hobby.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Here's my take:
The front rotors are $50 AutoZone rotors, which are meant for putting around town and certainly not designed for extreme conditions of track racing. The rears are just Centric blanks. Additionally, ECR has lots of big elevation changes, more so than most of the other tracks I've been on. I've also gotten faster over the years and I feel I pushed the car pretty hard yesterday. All this combined lead to the fronts overheating and they glazed up. The rears probably had to work harder as a result and soon overheated and glazed up themselves.

I spoke to a couple of instructors who saw the aftermath and they said, "time for real pads." Plus, if you guys think HP Plus is too aggressive, you're going to **** bricks if you try true race compounds, lol. I'm fairly certain I just pushed them beyond their intended operating temperature.


edit - After I felt the brakes glaze up, I actually did another relatively-hard lap -- just braked ~100-150ft earlier at each corner to compensate. Lol, and the video footage shows approximately 4-5 second slower lap time. Keep in mind that I've had this same set up for years racing on different tracks with no issues until now.

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Is anybody with at&t uverse and having fairly slow internet connection today? Mines seem to be going at a ultra slow rate.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

dang it was good to be back in my bed saturday night.... the races were a beating walking around so much

Lucky736

Damn. That is crazy. Definitely not orange anymore. Burnt orange?

Lucky736

Definitely the rotors that caused this. I know many like the slotted and drilled look but these are meant to be various ways of dissipating heat. With nowhere to go the heat transferred to the pad, the backing, and then to the caliper, on top of the heat that got back to the caliper in the other direction as well. I have to say though, I have NEVER seen powder/paint bake on a caliper like that even in true race cars. That is crazy.

fithamoto

iTrader: (24)

Q, what did you do to the G ? And your Garage is empty....what kinda work could ya do ?

------------

I agree with Eric, I have had several track days also and I have heated my brakes & pads up to the point where they are smokin also....but never have my Caliper's gotten discolored....YET !

Maybe is the way you guys are breaking to long or something...???

ppat1989

iTrader: (5)

HP plus is just an aggressive street pad but it's still a street pad. Not a race pad... Great for autox but if you brake like park does. Here ya go Chris lol

travlee

iTrader: (8)

check this out

faiz23

Just finished a drain and fill coolant from wifeys camry. $22.50 each for premixed long life toyota fluid...so ghey. I opened up the drain plug along with engine block drain plug to remove as much as possibly. Too lazy to open up the back drain plug on the engine since it only yields half a cup. Now I don't have to worry about the coolant for a while and plan to do the transmission fluid in couple weeks. I really do not want to do the serpentine belt on her car alone and might convince jake to do it with me.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

^ You need to get the drain pan that looks exactly like that but with an open top. No splatters anywhere and you still get the funnel end with handle on the other side. AND, you can clean the inside, unlike the one you have there.

ppat1989

iTrader: (5)

I have both. I lie the open to better as well and it's cheaper but doesn't matter if you already own the closed top one lol

faiz23

Quit beings wussies and just drain it already (that's what she said). Just be glad that I bottled it all up and plan to take it down to the auto parts store for proper disposal. A little bit of paper towels will clean it all up and a nice hot shower after a 9-6 job along with date night with antifreeze.

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

They just need to make the radiator with a drain valve. I've used the open top ones and some how it still splashed every where.

mikes10

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...=454109&page=3

fithamoto

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for that site Mike.

Ben is already on that site.....it has a little bit more activity than the others.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

so i have a squeak coming from my dash area that is driving me crazy, when jake and i were coming back from austin we were trying to figure out where it is coming from but it was hard as hell to try to track it down..... anyone else have this, or have an idea where i can start to try to find it

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

I think it's pretty common Travis. It might be near windshield try sticking foam/mf towels in between windshield and dash. Either that or the rear view mirror rattles. The back cover of it.

Chris filth I don't have too much in my garage. Enough to where I can DIY. I was putting on rear mud guards.