Cheap spring install in dfw please
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From: McKinney Texas
Anyone have any recomendations for spring installers in DFW? Or if anyone has the skills/tools to do, theres a $100 and a case of beer in it for ya.
he..he... ya, i might be able to help ya out Friday, depends if im going out of town Friday or not........
but i would suggest this thing! Allstar has one and he used it on his spring install and it was soo soo simple using it for the front springs......(you only need it for the fronts)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43753
oh, and ignore that it says MacPherson struts......its just advertising that you can easily do MacPherson struts style cars with out removing everything, (ON OR OFF THE VEHICLE - see where it says that on the site)
A spring compressor is a spring compressor and it does the job just fine.....see pic below of a 350z front spring being compressed with it....(OFF THE VEHICLE - get it)
at that point in the picture, you just remove the top plate, slide out the spring with device attached.......release pressure by backing off ONE screw and then do the same thing in reverse order to put the new spring on......its actually very easy.....and depending on what after market springs you get, you wont need the spring compressor to get the aftermarkets back on, since they are shorter to accommodate the drop wanted....
so you pretty much only need the spring compressor to remove the two front oem springs.......thats it...
- Jason
but i would suggest this thing! Allstar has one and he used it on his spring install and it was soo soo simple using it for the front springs......(you only need it for the fronts)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43753
oh, and ignore that it says MacPherson struts......its just advertising that you can easily do MacPherson struts style cars with out removing everything, (ON OR OFF THE VEHICLE - see where it says that on the site)
A spring compressor is a spring compressor and it does the job just fine.....see pic below of a 350z front spring being compressed with it....(OFF THE VEHICLE - get it)
at that point in the picture, you just remove the top plate, slide out the spring with device attached.......release pressure by backing off ONE screw and then do the same thing in reverse order to put the new spring on......its actually very easy.....and depending on what after market springs you get, you wont need the spring compressor to get the aftermarkets back on, since they are shorter to accommodate the drop wanted....
so you pretty much only need the spring compressor to remove the two front oem springs.......thats it...
- Jason
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Dec 16, 2008 at 05:46 AM.
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just in case you werent aware. nf's will drop you a hair more than 1.5" inches. you alignment will run way out of spec. your tires will wear very very quickly unless you get a camber kit and get alignment. you can get lignment for without the camber kit but more than likely, they still be out of spec, just not as much. just a fore warning.
^^ yes, NEXX is right.......doing that drop will put you out of spec for sure....you will need the rear camber arm and toe bolt...
-J
Here is toe bolt install: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...-protocav.html
Camber arm is pancake install....
-J
Here is toe bolt install: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...-protocav.html
Camber arm is pancake install....
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Dec 16, 2008 at 12:14 PM.
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From: McKinney Texas
Well that'd be awesome, ill take you up on that offer once i get them installed, i was told that i wouldnt necesarilly need camber links just an alignment.I heard its different based on each car.
Yeah man, I eventually needed a rear camber kit for my weak drop(Hotchkis springs). The NF's will definitely need a kit pretty quick if you want to save your tires. They run pretty cheap(well...compared to the front kits haha).
^^ yes sir........
how long has your car been lowered........if its been a while, turn the front wheels all the way out and look at the inside first few inches.........should see some noticeable wear....
then go to the rear and look at the first few inside inches of the tires..
-J
how long has your car been lowered........if its been a while, turn the front wheels all the way out and look at the inside first few inches.........should see some noticeable wear....
then go to the rear and look at the first few inside inches of the tires..
-J
what you buy is up to you..........as far as brand, but what you would need is
FRONT:
After market upper control arm - http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc...-07-front.aspx
REAR:
Rear camber arm - http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc...-40-to-40.aspx
Aftermarket toe bolt. - http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc-61309-124-SPC.aspx
INSTALLING - UP TO YOU, ITS NOT HARD.
ADJUSTING: ALIGNMENT SHOP
-J
FRONT:
After market upper control arm - http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc...-07-front.aspx
REAR:
Rear camber arm - http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc...-40-to-40.aspx
Aftermarket toe bolt. - http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc-61309-124-SPC.aspx
INSTALLING - UP TO YOU, ITS NOT HARD.
ADJUSTING: ALIGNMENT SHOP
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Dec 17, 2008 at 01:19 PM.
It all depends how your alignment looks. Did you get an alignment afterwords phiooz? They should of given you a print out of what they made/changes. I'm lowered on NF210, I didn't necessarily needed any camber kit. I was off but I was borderline. Not really enough for me to spend money on camber kits. I did do the rear because I wanted to eventually lower it more so I wanted to fix it anyways and have better adjustment.




