Yes, they should, but you can't tell which wire is connected to what pin (at least on the OEM connector). The UTEC connector may be different, but I do know the UTEC connector only uses one color of wire, which makes it hard to find particular wires.

 

Color me confused, but take a look here at the lay out that jim wolf put out
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...NG_Z33_ECU.pdf

If you notice; the evap can vent control valve, evap can purge control valve, and valve timing control solenoids are all on the same circuit.

But it looks like pins 117 and pins 46... or is it a 45, I seriously can't read that. But they do the evap control vent and purging.

 

Just out of curiousity, what was the gain settings you used during your attempts at closed loop BCS? Comming from the WRX world we would never touch the open loop BC except for the time we were waiting for closed loop to be released. One thing of note though in regards to gain, I found that <44 gave me horrendous boost spikes, hell 45 gave me a 1psi spike. >50 however game me no boost spikes but a weak and often nonrepeateable boost ramp up. I ended up staying at 48 as it had a predictable buildup and minimal spike up top. a lot of others have expressed the 45-50 gain sweet spot as well.

As for the temp corrections I ran 3 boost maps, one for winter, one fall/spring, and one summer.

 

I obviously started at the default value around 80. I ran all the way to zero and boost response never changed. I then went all the way to 100 (I believe that is the top) and again boost response never changed. This is using the latest firmware out (the firmware that corrected the "bug" that prevented the boost control solenoid from working at WOT). Like I said, in my experiance changing the gain control doesn't effect the way the boost controller works. This may be different on the WRX platform.

 

KP, can you take a look at that link i posted for the ecu harness and see if you got the same impressions i did?

 

117 is the Evap canister vent control valve and is a gray/blue wire

45 is the Evap canister purge volume control solenoid valve and is blue/yellow

 

They share the same hot wire, but the (-) control wire on each solenoid is unique to that solenoid.

 

so the pins i listed are the positive sides? or the control sides??? I am sorry I dont fully follow.

 

The pins are the (-) control side.

 

so really pins 117 and 45 (was my sight correct on this) just need to be jumped past the UTEC??? The UTEC does not monitor these signals for anything does it?

 

That would be a start - they are emission controls so I can't imagine the UTEC using them for anything.

 

anyone throwing this code able to test this?

 

Hey KP.... those covers at the end of the wires for the UTEC, are those rubber surrounds or plastic???

 

I believe they are plastic, but I'm not 100% certain.

 

I run 16psi in closed loop.

 

I know this will sound 7 sorts of the ghetto way of modding a car, but in theory, couldn't one put a wire in on that pin, and than put the Utec on, and the pressure hold the connection there? Than, just cut the wire from the ecu harness and solder it to said wire we just horribly installed?

 

installing utec month end and heard so many bad thing about the boost control, i am about to get a boost controller. you sound confidant maybe i should just get the boost solenoid and try it. i live at 4000ft and extreme climate changes. i am doubting this utec the more i read.

 

did anybody ever find a solution to this? i got the p1444 code after the utec install. im in vegas at 2100 ft of elevation