CFZ

iTrader: (7)

Hello, I am trying to get my emanage working together with a j&s safeguard.
On my first attempt I hooked up the eu to th ecu with autosport harness and j&s was already connected to the factory harness (eu ig. signals feed j&s). No start, so I took the j&s out of the ig. signal line and it started. Still wanting the function of the j&s I tried hooking up the j&s before the eu (j&s between ecu and eu) it started and ran fine for about 40 miles before the eu displayed ig. sig. error #2,3,4,5,6. Engine still ran fine but eu ig. sig. error woulden't go away. I then took the j&s out of the line and error went away. I now only have j&s tapped to the ig. sig. wires so as to have the knock monitor on the j&s working. Th j&s is only 3ch so it uses a waste spark system and I have tried hooking up the eu converting group ig. to individual ig. only to get no start (3ch in 6ch out). Then just for fun with same wiring I set the eu for 6ch in 6ch out. engine started but only 3cyl. were firing. BTW I had updated from v1.14 to v2.0 between eu ig. error no ig. error but the error did not show up for some time after the update.

Hope this is not to confusing but was wandering if anyone had any input on this. Is it ok to run with ig. sig. error or does anyone have experence getting these two working with each other.
Thanks

westpak

iTrader: (19)

We haven't done this yet so not sure but why are you hooking up the EU ignition wires if you want the J&S to do the timing retard?

CFZ

iTrader: (7)

I wanted to have the tuneabilty of the eu and the j&s as a backup in case of knock. The j&s only has a start(PSI),rate(-deg.)**** and a switch for2,4,6,8(-deg)that starts at 5250 all in at 6250. Being new to tunning I'm not sure if that was good enough. Which brings me to my next eu problem. In the datalogs my rpm spikes downward randomly at critical moments. So if this is what the eu sees wouldent it momentarily use the wrong location in the map. For now I may just use the j&s as it seems to do a good job at stopping the onset of even the slightest knock.
Does anyone else experience the rpm spikes with the eu? Is this normal?
Thanks

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Yes the safe guard is a back up like; a safety net but it pulls TIMING by delaying the ignition there for adding or removing timing. On top of the ECU and before the EU it will add delay when it compares your timing pulse to a knock source that just occured. With this method it pulls timing on the next ignition cycle for that cylinder that just knocked.

Mine throws the same codes. The JS system tells you to put the modual block in line with your ignition lines. Make sure you have the wiring right. from the top its: 1,4,2,5,3,6. Thats is the same for both sides, DO NOT WIRE THEM BACK WARDS(from top: 6,3,5,2,4,1)!!! Your enging will try to rotate the oposite direction. the car doesnt seem to like that.

I was going to experiment when I get off the road with moving it from the input side of the ignition of the EU to the output side of the EU. You lose the ability to datalog the timing the unit pulls but you "in theory" will not throw an EU code.

CFZ

iTrader: (7)

The j&s has been installed and working properly for many months before I added the eu. I hooked the eu up with a autosport harness so the j&s was on the output side of the eu. With the j&s wired on the output side of the eu the engine wouldn't start. Don't really know why. So I hooked it up on the input side of the eu and engine started and ran fine. After a day and a half of driving the eu put out an ig. sig error that would not go away although the engine still seemed to be running fine. I took the j&s out of the loop and error went away but no j&s

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

When you hook it up on the out put side its easy to switch it arroud. Especialy if you follow the directions. Normaly you hook the input of the JS to the input feed into the and have it inline there. So the input is away from the EU side of the Autosport. When on the output side the input of the junction block is next to the EU side of the harness. This is by far the most common mistake I've seen. Just giving you some thing to look out for.

I also had problems with the wiring instructions on the EU from the dire off the Greddy site. The pinouts were all fugged up they had some numbers back wards and the injector section was labled as the ignition section and visa-versa.

westpak

iTrader: (19)

When you had the J&S hooked up what were your settings for it?

CFZ

iTrader: (7)

The settings on the j&s were 10deg max, all cyl, 2deg rpm retard, and no boost retard.

westpak

iTrader: (19)

Not assuming anything so no offense but the start boost ****, is it all the way to the right or max to avoid it coming into play since you want only the knock safety?

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Actualy the start boost **** should be all the way left or 0 retard. Mid way is 5 psi and all the way right should be 10 psi. Please correct me if Im wrong its been 2 months since I fiddle with it so I may have forgotten how it works (um yeah that sounded kina wrong). The rate is like 0, 1 deg and 2 deg.

This should help clear some ify questions up: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/6cylNissan/350z.html

westpak

iTrader: (19)

You are right in theory if all works fine, I was just wandering if even at 0 retard that if the start is at 0 that it will have an effect on the signal, I guess only John can explain, but I was thinking if it is all the way CW or 10psi then he can test if it runs fine below 10 psi.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

I've data logged my tuneing sessions with the JS I can definately attest that with the vac unplugged and the *** at 0 there is no timming pulled. This is one reason I kinda like it on the front side but you get that annoying reed LED blinking on errors.

His may be a mesed up (hope not) but if every thing was full CCW I would tune from there and have max sensitivity set. Have some one drive your car and tune that thing your self. pretty easy all together.

CFZ

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, the boost retard ***** are set for 10psi start, and 0deg ret. rate so there is no boost retard. The rpm retard is set for 2deg. starting at 5250 and all in at 6250. Unfortunatly this is one of the older ones and 2deg is the least amount of rpm retard you can select. That would explain why I was able to drive around for awhile before getting the eu error which showed up after doing some high rev driving. So does the eu still operate normally when the error warning light is on? I am going to try the j&s before and fter the eu again and see what happens. I would like to know why the engine would not start when the j&s was hooked up after the eu.
Thanks for the help.

IceY2K1Max

iTrader: (1)

Contact John.

IIRC, the older J&S units had resistors on the inputs to keep the stock ECU from throwing an ignition code, however with the EU before the J&S, it is pulling down the voltage to low or something like that.

John has talked about how he changed his units to be EU friendly after a certain production date.

IceY2K1Max

iTrader: (1)

Here's his post:
https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...8&postcount=43