UTEC affecting fuel when on "ECU" or map 0
#1
UTEC affecting fuel when on "ECU" or map 0
My car has been running rich and throwing an AFR code (1281 or something, forgot at the moment). It cruises around 13.5 AFR when it is in ECU (below TPS threshold) or map 0.
However, if you remove the UTEC entirely, the AFR holds around a nice 14.7. Of course without the UTEC that code is never thrown. The AFR is measured outside of the UTEC in both instances with the same sensors.
I have messed with this several times and done several "cruising around" logs with and without the UTEC and its always like this. Rich with it, fine without.
The UTEC has software version 2.6 and is grounded. The car has a few bolt-on mods (popcharger, Crawford plenum, DC headers, Helix catless pipes). Above my TPS threshold (65% IIRC) the car is tuned to run around 13.5-12.8 AFR and does that fine.
Any input?
Edit: The car is fixed. Did it a while ago but been busy and haven't posted. I solved the problem by editing the 0% load column on the UTEC fuel map, which it uses for any load value below the TPS threshold. I just tinkered with it at various RPMs until I cruised around 14.7 AFR again. No lights in a few hundred miles.
Oh, so I guess that just shows that the UTEC does indeed dick with stuff all the time. I think it mentions the 0% column in the manual, by the way.
Anyway, hope that helps anyone who finds this via search.
However, if you remove the UTEC entirely, the AFR holds around a nice 14.7. Of course without the UTEC that code is never thrown. The AFR is measured outside of the UTEC in both instances with the same sensors.
I have messed with this several times and done several "cruising around" logs with and without the UTEC and its always like this. Rich with it, fine without.
The UTEC has software version 2.6 and is grounded. The car has a few bolt-on mods (popcharger, Crawford plenum, DC headers, Helix catless pipes). Above my TPS threshold (65% IIRC) the car is tuned to run around 13.5-12.8 AFR and does that fine.
Any input?
Edit: The car is fixed. Did it a while ago but been busy and haven't posted. I solved the problem by editing the 0% load column on the UTEC fuel map, which it uses for any load value below the TPS threshold. I just tinkered with it at various RPMs until I cruised around 14.7 AFR again. No lights in a few hundred miles.
Oh, so I guess that just shows that the UTEC does indeed dick with stuff all the time. I think it mentions the 0% column in the manual, by the way.
Anyway, hope that helps anyone who finds this via search.
Last edited by Kiamo; 11-26-2006 at 08:18 PM.
#2
i know it sounds stupid but you have to make sure to move the selector switch on the utec to your map...otherwise it is on 0 and your changes won't do anything. map 0 is the factory setting and will not change from stock.
i know mine was running rich as hell when i first put my utec in...but it was on 0. changed it to map 1 and then worked with the fuel to get it running leaner.
i know mine was running rich as hell when i first put my utec in...but it was on 0. changed it to map 1 and then worked with the fuel to get it running leaner.
#3
No I mean it runs rich when the UTEC shouldn't be doing anything. Map 0 or when its not supposed to be running my map (under the TPS threshold or in ECU portions of the map). I know about map selection and all that. I'm talking rich under light loads... cruising.
#5
Subscribing. I noticed I was running slightly richer with the UTEC installed as well, and on Map 0. I never get any CELs or codes though (knock knock). I figured some impact would be normal since it is a whole new circuit added in, even when bypassed. And I figured if there were no codes then I was a happy camper with that kind of bypass capability.
Plus the difference wasn't much. Only a few tenths richer on average during non-WOT driving.
But if it isn't normal or is a recurring issue in UTECs then I'd like to know.
Plus the difference wasn't much. Only a few tenths richer on average during non-WOT driving.
But if it isn't normal or is a recurring issue in UTECs then I'd like to know.
#6
Originally Posted by Road Warrior
hey kiamo...did you call utec...their support is excellent.
good luck with it...let us know what the problem was if you have already fixed it.
good luck with it...let us know what the problem was if you have already fixed it.
I might try calling them, but I was curious if anyone here had any input first.
#7
I have been gotten a check engine light in my car after I installed the UTEC also. I have taken it out twice to take my car to the dealer and every time I put it back in I get a CEL. I don't know what's up because my car is running great.
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#8
Originally Posted by tabbott
I have been gotten a check engine light in my car after I installed the UTEC also. I have taken it out twice to take my car to the dealer and every time I put it back in I get a CEL. I don't know what's up because my car is running great.
PS: For future reference, just disconnect your batt for a couple hours and the codes will clear. No need to pay the dealer for that one.
#9
Tabbott..
Make sure your switches are flipped the correct way.. I believe both should be flipped toward the harness.. Read the manual for confirmation, but that is usually what most peeps have problems with when they first install the UTEC.. If they are flipped the correct way, then flash the DBW processor.. If you need help with that, call me.. You know how to get my #
Make sure your switches are flipped the correct way.. I believe both should be flipped toward the harness.. Read the manual for confirmation, but that is usually what most peeps have problems with when they first install the UTEC.. If they are flipped the correct way, then flash the DBW processor.. If you need help with that, call me.. You know how to get my #
#10
Today i`ve Connected my Tuner WB, and my car reads like this:
Idle is about 14.7
WOT RPM AFR
4750 12.8
5000 12.2
6000 11.8
6600+ 11.2
all this in stock mode !! its HELL RICH.
Sorry For Thread Hijack, but do i need to recalibrate my WB Sensor ? today is the first time i use it.
P.S. just upgraded my UTEC to Version 2.8d
Idle is about 14.7
WOT RPM AFR
4750 12.8
5000 12.2
6000 11.8
6600+ 11.2
all this in stock mode !! its HELL RICH.
Sorry For Thread Hijack, but do i need to recalibrate my WB Sensor ? today is the first time i use it.
P.S. just upgraded my UTEC to Version 2.8d
#11
Originally Posted by NETSHARK
Today i`ve Connected my Tuner WB, and my car reads like this:
Idle is about 14.7
WOT RPM AFR
4750 12.8
5000 12.2
6000 11.8
6600+ 11.2
all this in stock mode !! its HELL RICH.
Sorry For Thread Hijack, but do i need to recalibrate my WB Sensor ? today is the first time i use it.
P.S. just upgraded my UTEC to Version 2.8d
Idle is about 14.7
WOT RPM AFR
4750 12.8
5000 12.2
6000 11.8
6600+ 11.2
all this in stock mode !! its HELL RICH.
Sorry For Thread Hijack, but do i need to recalibrate my WB Sensor ? today is the first time i use it.
P.S. just upgraded my UTEC to Version 2.8d
Just need to tune as yes you are pretty rich... Not too bad actually but just take some fuel out and you will be fine..
You want to be right at 12.8 at WOT all the way.. 14.7 is normal at idle..
Babysteps..
#12
Originally Posted by Kenk2
No you dont need to recalibrate a thing!!
Just need to tune as yes you are pretty rich... Not too bad actually but just take some fuel out and you will be fine..
You want to be right at 12.8 at WOT all the way.. 14.7 is normal at idle..
Babysteps..
Just need to tune as yes you are pretty rich... Not too bad actually but just take some fuel out and you will be fine..
You want to be right at 12.8 at WOT all the way.. 14.7 is normal at idle..
Babysteps..
What about a Target AFR for UTEC Interface anybody got it working There ? that would be an easy job for beginners to help `em tuning the fuel map.
#13
It sounds like your stock ECU program is just plain rich...which is pretty typical. I dont see anything wrong with the UTEC...unless I missed something else in your thread. You are even idling at 14.7
#14
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
It sounds like your stock ECU program is just plain rich...which is pretty typical. I dont see anything wrong with the UTEC...unless I missed something else in your thread. You are even idling at 14.7
Now, if I take the UTEC out, then it will idle and cruise at 14.7. The ECU is throwing the fuel mixture rich code because it cannot get it to lean out (so I presume) as the UTEC won't let it (also so I presume).
The UTEC is somehow affecting stuff it shouldn't (my TPS threshold is 70). Any ideas for a solution?
#15
Do you have testpipes? Did you space your o2 sensors with an extra bung?
If you dont extend your o2 sensors, and you have test pipes, you WILL throw a code..
Look at the pic, as that is what I did..
If you dont extend your o2 sensors, and you have test pipes, you WILL throw a code..
Look at the pic, as that is what I did..
#16
Originally Posted by Kenk2
Do you have testpipes? Did you space your o2 sensors with an extra bung?
If you dont extend your o2 sensors, and you have test pipes, you WILL throw a code..
Look at the pic, as that is what I did..
http://www.az350z.com/photopost/data...G_2510-med.JPG
If you dont extend your o2 sensors, and you have test pipes, you WILL throw a code..
Look at the pic, as that is what I did..
http://www.az350z.com/photopost/data...G_2510-med.JPG
#17
Try upgrading the UTEC to 2.8 and i hope it will work. i have no problems at all with 2.8 and even though my car is rich at 4k rpm to redline but its way better than your case, my AFR at cruise and idle 14.7-14.5.
about the TPS, turn the Ignition on but don`t turn on the car, connect to the UTEC and go into Dashboard menu and floor the **** gas pedal all the way down and check your TPS if your getting 100-104 its fine that means you can reach the 100% load column if not then you will never reach the 100% load column which means a power loss, now if you didn`t get 100% TPS you must adjust the Maximum/Minimum TPS Voltage in Special Constants to calibrate it, go to logger 4 by pressing 4 on your keyboard, check for T0 and T1 then the calculation should be like this :
Min TPS = T0 / 51 = your min TPS Voltage
Max TPS = T1 / 51 = your max TPS Voltage
after getting those two numbers go to Special Constants and adjust the current numbers with the new values you got from logger 4.
P.S. You can read Appendix A at Page 59 in UTEC Manual.
As Our great Tuners says Read the UTEC manual again and again from the begging and you will learn something new, Right Sharif ? Thanks for the Advice VQ Guru
about the TPS, turn the Ignition on but don`t turn on the car, connect to the UTEC and go into Dashboard menu and floor the **** gas pedal all the way down and check your TPS if your getting 100-104 its fine that means you can reach the 100% load column if not then you will never reach the 100% load column which means a power loss, now if you didn`t get 100% TPS you must adjust the Maximum/Minimum TPS Voltage in Special Constants to calibrate it, go to logger 4 by pressing 4 on your keyboard, check for T0 and T1 then the calculation should be like this :
Min TPS = T0 / 51 = your min TPS Voltage
Max TPS = T1 / 51 = your max TPS Voltage
after getting those two numbers go to Special Constants and adjust the current numbers with the new values you got from logger 4.
P.S. You can read Appendix A at Page 59 in UTEC Manual.
As Our great Tuners says Read the UTEC manual again and again from the begging and you will learn something new, Right Sharif ? Thanks for the Advice VQ Guru
#20
Originally Posted by NETSHARK
Try upgrading the UTEC to 2.8 and i hope it will work. i have no problems at all with 2.8 and even though my car is rich at 4k rpm to redline but its way better than your case, my AFR at cruise and idle 14.7-14.5.
about the TPS, turn the Ignition on but don`t turn on the car, connect to the UTEC and go into Dashboard menu and floor the **** gas pedal all the way down and check your TPS if your getting 100-104 its fine that means you can reach the 100% load column if not then you will never reach the 100% load column which means a power loss, now if you didn`t get 100% TPS you must adjust the Maximum/Minimum TPS Voltage in Special Constants to calibrate it, go to logger 4 by pressing 4 on your keyboard, check for T0 and T1 then the calculation should be like this :
Min TPS = T0 / 51 = your min TPS Voltage
Max TPS = T1 / 51 = your max TPS Voltage
after getting those two numbers go to Special Constants and adjust the current numbers with the new values you got from logger 4.
P.S. You can read Appendix A at Page 59 in UTEC Manual.
As Our great Tuners says Read the UTEC manual again and again from the begging and you will learn something new, Right Sharif ? Thanks for the Advice VQ Guru
about the TPS, turn the Ignition on but don`t turn on the car, connect to the UTEC and go into Dashboard menu and floor the **** gas pedal all the way down and check your TPS if your getting 100-104 its fine that means you can reach the 100% load column if not then you will never reach the 100% load column which means a power loss, now if you didn`t get 100% TPS you must adjust the Maximum/Minimum TPS Voltage in Special Constants to calibrate it, go to logger 4 by pressing 4 on your keyboard, check for T0 and T1 then the calculation should be like this :
Min TPS = T0 / 51 = your min TPS Voltage
Max TPS = T1 / 51 = your max TPS Voltage
after getting those two numbers go to Special Constants and adjust the current numbers with the new values you got from logger 4.
P.S. You can read Appendix A at Page 59 in UTEC Manual.
As Our great Tuners says Read the UTEC manual again and again from the begging and you will learn something new, Right Sharif ? Thanks for the Advice VQ Guru
im working now on my freinds 350z TT and tody, damn the car is more faster then the U-Emanage
goodluck my friend