Hello,

I wanted to know whether I should pay the extra and get a Dyno tune, or just get the reflash. Most likely I was going to take it down to TechnoSquare in torrance and have them do it, I just havent had the chance yet.

How much power do you guys think I might be putting out before and after.

Below are my mods.

I have:
Pop Charger
5/16" plenum spacer w/ iso
UR Pulley
JWT Flywheel & APC Clutch
Nismo Headers
Random Tech Hiflow cats
Greddy Evo2 Catback Exhaust


Thanks in Advance.

 

i didn't know they made a 3/16 spacer?

 

if you are going to do a reflash, go to Technosquare and do it on the dyno.

For the price though I would just do a Utec and be done with it. If you decide to go FI in the future you will already have it.

 

I meant 5/16.

 

Since you are local, I would probably just take it to TS. Eventually you should get it checked out on a dyno with air/fuel sniffer, to see how the tune is doing.

If possible, get the dyno done at technosquare (if they have a dyno now??)

 

Check any of the 10 threads exactly like this one that have been started this week.

 

hahaha dang Fluid take it easy on em!! but hes right just search I mean I know were lazy!! LOL when I first joined I did the same thing now I just call bobby and matt and bother them at CIN HAHAHA but there the SHI*!!! See ya the 28th dawg

 

The only recent person I found that had a similar setup recently was shanecrosby. but he doesnt have a lightweight flywheel.

 

Flywheel won't change or affect your tune in any way

 

So would 270whp be a good estimate? or generous?

 

with a good tune I would think that would be possible.

 

Thanks for the insight guys. I hate it when the more you read, the more you cant decide what to do.

Reflash or UTEC. I am leaning towards UTEC, but I doubt I am going to be doing any more mods and will stay N/A.

 

I'd say go UTEC. You'll have the ability to street tune the car which is huge in my mind. Dyno tuning is OK but from experience, I'll tell you that you just can't perfect the tune without doing street tuning afterwards anyways. I think every experienced tuner will tell you that as well. Most good shops take the car out on the road and make adjustments after a dyno session anyways. So, given your choices, I'd say UTEC is much better suited for you. Also, generally, dyno tuning is more effective in obtaining max power with FI because there's an extra variable in that equation. Dyno will tell you when you go past that efficiency range and start loosing power on most moderate size setuups so it's worth using a dyno in that case to extract max power out followed by a street tune.

With NA tuning, it's much simpler and pretty straightforward. On pump gas, you will always be limited by the octane and will never overtake the MBT mark before you induce detonation. So, there's your mark and you don't need dyno to tell you when you're making max power. Set your fueling to where you want to be first, preferably for max torque, and then run as much timing as you can get away with. That's about it. Pretty simple. Dyno will be a waste of money since you get the same results without it on a NA car. Good luck.

 

If you are going to go the ECU route, I would definitely have it dyno tuned by TS.
UTEC is also a good route to go for your mods, and they are selling faster now that people are getting the Fcon

 

If you're really not gonna do anything else then the technosquare will probably do, but with the utec you get the ability to retune after adding/deleting parts. i consider the technosquare just labor and the utec an actual additional part (which requires more labor ie tuning.)

utec will have some resale value in the future, but you can't easily sell your reflashed technosquare ecu since we have that immobilizer thing tied in to our keys.

 

Also, to follow up on the comment above, tuning a car 1000 miles away by doing just a reflash is actually hard to get right. The tune ends up being very conservative because it has to be. There's no feedback system so you have to play it safe. With most off-the-shelf tunes that I have seen, you awlays end up leaving power on the table. UTEC, UTEC, UTEC!!!!

 

Yeah that's why I like the idea of the l-spec which just changes the redline and does some funky drive by wire remapping but leaves fuel and timing alone.

i think it'll be worth the 345 bucks if i can get to sub 13.500

tuning can get real expensive but it its truely the only way to squeeze every last drop of power out of there

if i planned on keeping my z for more than 2 years i'd prob go utec .. but that new g coupe is lookin real sweet to me.

 

Bare with me on this one guys.

I need to sell my car, I am moving to NJ for 6 months on business.

I am listing my car for sale and have a quick question

Engine HP w/ my mods. Would it be 320hp? any reasonable estimates will do. Most people out here looking for cars look look at rwhp imo. I'm gonna list whatever I think the engine is.

Thanks in advance.

 

If people are looking for RWHP, then why do you want to know what your crank HP is? Either way, estimating crank HP is just dumb. Go run it on a dyno, and see what your WHP is.

 

Weak.

I havent had time this whole month to get a dyno, and if I did I would have already taken my car in for a tune.

Nonetheless, I asked for an answer to a simple question. Not a criticism.

Thanks.