Anyone have a UTECtiming map for an NA Z
Hey guys,
Here are the mods, I would like to tune myself with the UTEC but need some timing maps. I would like to do timing for 94 octane only.
Here is what I have. Rev-up motor, Short ram intake, Mrev+ with 5/16 spacer, strupp headers, UTR test pipes, Injen SES dual Exhaust.
Help and Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
Here are the mods, I would like to tune myself with the UTEC but need some timing maps. I would like to do timing for 94 octane only.
Here is what I have. Rev-up motor, Short ram intake, Mrev+ with 5/16 spacer, strupp headers, UTR test pipes, Injen SES dual Exhaust.
Help and Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
you already got a good answer in post #3 - that, and datalogging, then making changes as needed (I doubt you'll need any) are a FAR better way to start than randomly plugging in someone else's numbers
true that, but i think its gonna be very informative to know others maps, not to copy and paste their settings but to see what is possible and what is not, will definately help. especially for people with different cams, pistons, fuel etc etc.
i bet people dont really want to share their maps because it cost them to have their cars dyno tuned by someone.. 'my maps not gonna work for you' is just an excuse, using someones map is entirely upto the person.
its good to help tuners make more money by hiding their maps but there are many people who want to tune their cars themselves because of different reasons.
I currently run 2002 fairlady z (imported) tomei 268 cams, jwt valve springs, stillen intake, header, y pipe, cat-back with/without cats on 98octane gas at 7200rpm. I am doing my bodykit right now so its gonna be a while but once I get my car 'finished' with the tune, I am going to post my map here so people can at least get an idea of what the map should look like with those mods.
and I hope there are more people who are keen to share their maps, i believe this community exists to share information, not to brag about their cars or how much money they had to spend.
i bet people dont really want to share their maps because it cost them to have their cars dyno tuned by someone.. 'my maps not gonna work for you' is just an excuse, using someones map is entirely upto the person.
its good to help tuners make more money by hiding their maps but there are many people who want to tune their cars themselves because of different reasons.
I currently run 2002 fairlady z (imported) tomei 268 cams, jwt valve springs, stillen intake, header, y pipe, cat-back with/without cats on 98octane gas at 7200rpm. I am doing my bodykit right now so its gonna be a while but once I get my car 'finished' with the tune, I am going to post my map here so people can at least get an idea of what the map should look like with those mods.
and I hope there are more people who are keen to share their maps, i believe this community exists to share information, not to brag about their cars or how much money they had to spend.
Last edited by bleunetizen; Sep 5, 2007 at 02:54 PM.
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Every car/ engine is different, and many perform optimally with different tuning variations. But I'd be happy to share & help the community where I can. Take these maps for what it's worth, your mileage may vary (so to speak)... :-)
These self-tuned maps are working best for my setup (even better than the professional tune I got a few months ago), and are constantly evolving as I tweak this or that (I need to get a life).
I've done my own tuning with a TXS Tuner Module & AEM AFR Gauge - and I rent dyno time at a local shop to tune on... And have a few select stretches of open road to road-tune on as well.
As Adam mentioned above; Data logging and dyno time are indespensible when tuning to see what works best for your setup, and what doesn't work so well. Otherwise you're just guessing, probably badly.
Contrary to what some may say - Tuning is not magical. Just takes time to learn the idiosyncrasies and experiment a little. Always tune in small increments, so it's easy to back track if something doesn't work so well. And know the safe operating envelope of your vehicle to ensure you don't damage anything.
My goal of tuning: Take it as close to the edge as possible, while still maintaining as close to 100% reliability as possible.
My current NA breather mods & Maps:
'06 Revup 6MT
06 Airbox w/ Amsoil Dropin
MD ISO 5/16 Spacer
MD MREV 2 Lower Collector
Nismo R-Spec Headers
Random Tech Hi Flow Metalic Cats
HKS Hi Power Exhaust w/ X-Pipe fabrication
DIY Passenger-Side CrankCase Oil Catch Can
DIY Driver's-Side CrankCase Breather Filter
UTEC / TXS Tuner/ AEM AFR
Next Mods: Going internal.
Ported/ polished Heads
Tomei 268 cams
Beefier valves/ springs/ seating/ etc
Stroker Kit
I'd like to hit 300+whp NA by this time next year~ :-)
I'm staying NA for now... I'm not interested in FI being that it just isn't reliable enough (for me).
* This fuel map keeps my AFR's between 12.5~13 across the RPM/Load spectrum from about 3000 to redline.
* The timing map is about as much as I can advance timing before starting to pick up some knock (with fairly sensitive knock constants).
* I have my TPS Threshold set to 25%. But the loadpoints don't engage below 40%. Hence the tune only going as low as 40%. But the loadpoints do engage much more quickly with the TPS threshold set to 25%, so I left it there.
* Setting the TPS Threshold to 25% gave me some shift knock. So, I set the Open to Closed Loop Delay to (2) to better accomodate the loadpoint's quicker engagement(s). No more shift knock.
* As far as RPM threshold - I don't see any reason to engage the UTEC maps below 2000, so I let the factory ECU handle that.
Anyway, Enjoy the maps. Might be a good starting point if you have a similar setup~
These self-tuned maps are working best for my setup (even better than the professional tune I got a few months ago), and are constantly evolving as I tweak this or that (I need to get a life).
I've done my own tuning with a TXS Tuner Module & AEM AFR Gauge - and I rent dyno time at a local shop to tune on... And have a few select stretches of open road to road-tune on as well.
As Adam mentioned above; Data logging and dyno time are indespensible when tuning to see what works best for your setup, and what doesn't work so well. Otherwise you're just guessing, probably badly.
Contrary to what some may say - Tuning is not magical. Just takes time to learn the idiosyncrasies and experiment a little. Always tune in small increments, so it's easy to back track if something doesn't work so well. And know the safe operating envelope of your vehicle to ensure you don't damage anything.
My goal of tuning: Take it as close to the edge as possible, while still maintaining as close to 100% reliability as possible.
My current NA breather mods & Maps:
'06 Revup 6MT
06 Airbox w/ Amsoil Dropin
MD ISO 5/16 Spacer
MD MREV 2 Lower Collector
Nismo R-Spec Headers
Random Tech Hi Flow Metalic Cats
HKS Hi Power Exhaust w/ X-Pipe fabrication
DIY Passenger-Side CrankCase Oil Catch Can
DIY Driver's-Side CrankCase Breather Filter
UTEC / TXS Tuner/ AEM AFR
Next Mods: Going internal.
Ported/ polished Heads
Tomei 268 cams
Beefier valves/ springs/ seating/ etc
Stroker Kit
I'd like to hit 300+whp NA by this time next year~ :-)
I'm staying NA for now... I'm not interested in FI being that it just isn't reliable enough (for me).
* This fuel map keeps my AFR's between 12.5~13 across the RPM/Load spectrum from about 3000 to redline.
* The timing map is about as much as I can advance timing before starting to pick up some knock (with fairly sensitive knock constants).
* I have my TPS Threshold set to 25%. But the loadpoints don't engage below 40%. Hence the tune only going as low as 40%. But the loadpoints do engage much more quickly with the TPS threshold set to 25%, so I left it there.
* Setting the TPS Threshold to 25% gave me some shift knock. So, I set the Open to Closed Loop Delay to (2) to better accomodate the loadpoint's quicker engagement(s). No more shift knock.
* As far as RPM threshold - I don't see any reason to engage the UTEC maps below 2000, so I let the factory ECU handle that.
Anyway, Enjoy the maps. Might be a good starting point if you have a similar setup~
Last edited by gothchick; Sep 7, 2007 at 02:20 PM.
Originally Posted by gothchick
* This fuel map keeps my AFR's between 12.5~13 across the RPM/Load spectrum from about 3000 to redline.
* The timing map is about as much as I can advance timing before starting to pick up some knock (with fairly sensitive knock constants).
* I have my TPS Threshold set to 25%. But the loadpoints don't engage below 40%. Hence the tune only going as low as 40%. But the loadpoints do engage much more quickly with the TPS threshold set to 25%, so I left it there.
* Setting the TPS Threshold to 25% gave me some shift knock. So, I set the Open to Closed Loop Delay to (2) to better accomodate the loadpoint's quicker engagement(s). No more shift knock.
* As far as RPM threshold - I don't see any reason to engage the UTEC maps below 2000, so I let the factory ECU handle that.
Anyway, Enjoy the maps. Might be a good starting point if you have a similar setup~
* The timing map is about as much as I can advance timing before starting to pick up some knock (with fairly sensitive knock constants).
* I have my TPS Threshold set to 25%. But the loadpoints don't engage below 40%. Hence the tune only going as low as 40%. But the loadpoints do engage much more quickly with the TPS threshold set to 25%, so I left it there.
* Setting the TPS Threshold to 25% gave me some shift knock. So, I set the Open to Closed Loop Delay to (2) to better accomodate the loadpoint's quicker engagement(s). No more shift knock.
* As far as RPM threshold - I don't see any reason to engage the UTEC maps below 2000, so I let the factory ECU handle that.
Anyway, Enjoy the maps. Might be a good starting point if you have a similar setup~
I was using cipher to log AFR and its tricky because it reads off of both widebands so you dont know which to use for your actual AFR tune. I tried to get both as close as possible to 13.0.
One bank will read higher than 13.0 and the other will read lower.
Any suggestions?
You can increase the redline I believe only in speed density mode. Remember that you can datalog in map 0 and "see" what the stock ECU does and then make adjustments from there based on A/F and power output.
gothchik thanks for sharing these useful info !! thanks alot man 
rcdash,shifty711: you can enable it at Open Loop Fuelling in the Parameters, just look at the Factory manual page 33, rcdash you can chose the fuel mode in the Open Loop Settings either Mass Air or Speed Density, both will work if you want to Adjust the Rev Limiter.

rcdash,shifty711: you can enable it at Open Loop Fuelling in the Parameters, just look at the Factory manual page 33, rcdash you can chose the fuel mode in the Open Loop Settings either Mass Air or Speed Density, both will work if you want to Adjust the Rev Limiter.
Gothchick, rcdash (and anyone else this applies to):
What are your temp correction settings for timing? Are you tuned at ~70F and pull timing for hot temps, or are you tuned at ~100+F and add timing for cooler temps?
What are your temp correction settings for timing? Are you tuned at ~70F and pull timing for hot temps, or are you tuned at ~100+F and add timing for cooler temps?
Being that I'm in Atlanta... I've got my Base Temp Comp Parameters tuned for 21C - 30C Column (69F - 86F) set to (0).
In the 31C - 40C Column I ratchet the timing back (1) Degree and add 1% Fuel.
In the 41C - 50C Column I ratchet the timing back another degree and add 1% more fuel.
So the aggregate changes to my Fuel/Timing is that as the ambients get hotter, (-2) degrees of timing and (+2%) more fuel.
I wish the 31C - 40C Column had better resolution, becuase I don't really need any adjustments until the ambients hit @ 35C... so I'm still playing with the best settings.
I haven't had the chance to tune for cooler ambient temps yet... But fall is coming! :-)
In the 31C - 40C Column I ratchet the timing back (1) Degree and add 1% Fuel.
In the 41C - 50C Column I ratchet the timing back another degree and add 1% more fuel.
So the aggregate changes to my Fuel/Timing is that as the ambients get hotter, (-2) degrees of timing and (+2%) more fuel.
I wish the 31C - 40C Column had better resolution, becuase I don't really need any adjustments until the ambients hit @ 35C... so I'm still playing with the best settings.
I haven't had the chance to tune for cooler ambient temps yet... But fall is coming! :-)
Last edited by gothchick; Sep 11, 2007 at 11:56 AM.
Hmmmm, I'm not sure how accurate the factory knock sensors are, but mine's still oem. I was pondering maybe getting the TXS knock sensor/ light combo... :-)
Here's my knock map settings below:
Here's my knock map settings below:
Last edited by gothchick; Sep 12, 2007 at 07:21 AM.
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