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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 03:21 PM
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Default ECU reset?

Well my engine threw a SES light after I installed my test pipes. I'm wondering if I should reset my ECU and drive it easy on the interstate for 30 miles and see if it comes back. can anyone link me up with a how to on how to reset the factory ECU? couldnt find anything.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 03:31 PM
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thank ya, sir. I forget to use the miracle that is google sometimes. is it normal for test pipes to throw the SES instead of a CEL?
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 09:00 PM
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anybody else have a SES light throw up after installing test pipes?
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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Do you mean Check engine? I have an SES light showing up, but I have non-foulers. The code is making me think it's coming from the test pipes, because it's saying it's running too lean.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 07:45 AM
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same exact situation with me. I installed non-foulers but it threw up an SES. gonna reset my ECU and go for a highway cruise next time I'm in Ktown.

will Cobb accessport allow buyers to upload different fuel maps on the stock ECU?
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 07:49 AM
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I think we have the same problem, I assume it is that we didn't drill a big enough hole in the non fouler. I was going to drill it out bigger last week and I couldn't get one of them off.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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i sent a half inch drill bit through both...burned one up. ugh...isnt that O2 sensor just there to tell whether or not the cat is worn out? I'm under the impression that the O2 sensors on the collectors on the headers are the only exhaust O2's that actually affect timing and fuel maps.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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I don't know about that, I just figured that was what it was. It hasn't affected my car in any way and I have been throwin the code like once a week for a few months. I just keep disconnecting the battery for 15 min.
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
i sent a half inch drill bit through both...burned one up. ugh...isnt that O2 sensor just there to tell whether or not the cat is worn out? I'm under the impression that the O2 sensors on the collectors on the headers are the only exhaust O2's that actually affect timing and fuel maps.
That is correct. Front O2 is used for closed loop feedback to reach desired AFR. It's critical that the O2 sensor be located BEFORE the CAT, for accurate readings. CATs clean up the exhaust with some chemical reactions which alter the amount of oxygen in the stream. If you measure AFR post-CAT, it will always read leaner than normal. So, if the O2 is behind or in the CAT, it's not used for fueling adjustments. I think you can guess now what the rear O2 is used for ...emissions to monitor the health of the CAT. That is why when you remove the CAT, you get CAT inefficiency code.

Word of advice, before you start clearing codes, you should probably scan the code first to verify it is what you think it is. Just blindly clearing codes and assuming it's a certain one doesn't sound too smart to me. I can recall several instances where I was tempted to do that myself but scanned the code just to be sure and it turned out to be something else. And since Autozone can scan it for you for free, it's really a no-brainer. Good luck.
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:59 AM
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If it is a code stating the air fuel ration sensor that is the one I keep throwing.
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