your OEM are 330cc at 3.5 bar if theyre the fbjc100 like they should be. if i were you i would look for some in the 350-370 range. however, if you cant find any for a reasonable price then its not the way to go, the only reason to do this is because if you get good injectors for cheap, then youve basically found a way to beat the system

 

changing parts without the knowledge base of why you need them or what their net results is going to be is a waste of money, no matter if its $60 or $6000. There is absolutely 0 need for larger injectors on your setup, or even a setup with substantially more power than yours

Uprev happens to be right. The biggest downside to the SAFC and similar tuning tools is they are inconsistent, and they affect more than 1 parameter at a time, without any means of visualizing the changes that are being made in a real time environment.

 

Larger maf housing would be a better solution and might have less ill effects when in open loop

 

rather than spending money on maf housings, injectors, when he has such a basic level of mods, etc, if he just got a proper tune, he would be in FAR better shape, with consistent results (IMHO)

 

also forgot to say this, before you go make a purchase, make sure you understand the theory and why it works. read several threads pertaining to this so that you know what youre doing. it will also help you size the injectors if you decide to go that way.

Z1: its not that he needs bigger injectors, he certainly does NOT need bigger injectors. its about the timing he will pick up. most people here dont really know this because it only works on a small selection of z's/g's. and yes, a real tune would be better, always. its more about a starting point. plus, if he gets a tune later he can still get more timing over the tune, which typically will work just fine with the tunes ive seen. he could get pinging obviously if he gets tuned AND runs the extra timing, but then its just 30 mins to replace the injectors

try starting here: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...g-advance.html

 

I understand the theory, I just don't think it's worthwhile that's all. I've spent more time on the dyno with my car than I can even count at this point. I've played with all sorts of timing figures, for hours and hours at a time during each tuning session I've done. I've yet to see any meaningful changes on pump gas. Running 8 degrees more timing than stock might sound cool on a chat forum, but unless it nets you a repeatable difference on the dyno, what's the point? My max advance now is 28 degrees IIRC. I picked up nothing my running more than that on pump gas. But I totally understand what they are going with; we used to do the same tricks to the GVR4/1G DSMs

 

its been repeatable for me, guess its different for every car, but taking out 10% (~ adding 3 degrees timing) gave me a serious business gain on the dyno, but more importantly it gave me .2 at the strip. and i would agree that 8 degrees is certainly too much. even the guy that was getting 8 degrees said it was too much, he was pinging up top

also thought to mention that the 17* timing trick or 2* advance of base timing was dyno proven to add HP everywhere on the curve, but think we can all agree that timing is good for HP

 

I've followed Matt's threads on .org. Definately a pioneer. He did these mods in 05 or so. Before there were easily aquired ecu mod solutions. I think one would need a pretty good working knowledge in order to do this types of mods (going around the ecu). I think in later years, using the larger maf netted the same timing advance w/o having to use injectors and lower fuel pressure.

But given the relative timing/fuel etc.. alteration ease the G35 has access to, I'd question doing these type of run arounds vs just getting something like a reflash.

I suppose one could still do it cheaper with a SAFC and playing around with dif sized maf housings until one got the desired basic timing curve. But you are sorta boxed in to one set of curves per maf size. One maf housing might be great for low but ping up high. And another might get you good high end but not enough low end timing etc.....

 

He is talking about the tail sniffer. My dynoshop also uses the tail sniffer but because it way in the back and if you have CAT the number will read Lean. I asked my dyno operator why the number is to lean and he said don't worry about it coz once the pull is done, they right A/F will be displayed on the dyno. Are you telling me that the A/F that is being read at the end of your muffler is the same A/F you will see if let say you have an 02 sensor plugged just a few inches away from the exhaust manifold?

SAFC does alter the MAF signal but you don't really have full control of the timing to really squeeze more power on the Engine. If that is the case then we should all stop playing with the ignition and just tune the fuel table.

 

no, what I am saying is that the dyno does not adjust the AFR location based on whether or not the car has a cat. The dyno has no way to know whether the car has a cat, or a testpipe, nor does it know where you are putting that sensor. It simple takes the info that the sensor sends back to it and plots it on the chart. Obviously the farther the sensor is from the engine, the leaner it will read, but the dyno has no way to compensate for that location. It simply will display whatever value the sensor tells it

I understand how the SAFC works very well. Because it alters timing as a byproduct of altering fuel, and because it does so in an inconsistent fashion, is just 1 of the reasons why its not exactly a precise method of tuning at all.

 

/\ I just basically answered the OP's concern regarding the tailsniffer. I just basically said not to worry coz the operator probably did what ever adjustment so what ever he see in his Dyno sheet is the actual A/F he's getting.

 

actually the MAF mod was more or less shown to not advance the timing. the reason for this is that although the MAF initially reads a low percentage because of the increased area for the air to flow, the MAF voltage is corrected back to the actual in order to avoid 17:1 AFR's. however, it did show gains and the consensus was more or less that the increased flow ability was the reason. also, this was more or less the reason that the mod died out, many people werent really taking advantage of the flow, just thinking they would get some timing, but if you were already tuned and didnt take advantage of the flow then you were essentially where you started, just with an extra ID change or two in the intake.

all that is of course unless youre lucky like me and doing the BBMAF actually caused your AFR to go really rich, for w/e reason. think pegged WB on the dyno

 

https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...ed-only-4.html
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...-plenum-2.html

These guys have been modding MAF sizes since Matt was.

And no, I did not see any timing advance via Cipher when adding the larger MAF. The only time I saw it was when subtracting fuel via SAFCII.

The A33B MAF mod helps 'off the line' and low end torque.

There needs to be a correction factor installed electronically that compensates for the added MAF size, whether it be an AFC or standalone or anything in between. In any case, it's WAY too inconsistent w/ an AFC, as was stated prior.

 

I hate you ^. I thought it was safc correction after that made the timing advance? What are you using to correct the maf size/fuel?

 

That may have come out wrong.

What I meant was ... The Cipher confirmed I did not have any advance as a result of the larger MAF housing. The Cipher is a very nice data logger and cannot tune my ECU.

I saw an addition of about 3-5º timing when I was subtracting 10-12% fuel via SAFCII, so the AFC was responsible for that, not the larger MAF housing.

I'm still in the stone age using the SAFCII IN/OUT settings.

I AIM'd UpRev alst week about the A33B ECU, and it looks grim, so I might have to do a Jime-like move and go w/ UTEC or rewire the Z ECU and make it happy for my car, hack job and look into Osirus.

 

so let me get this sraight,,,
I could achieve richer running condition by installing larger diameter MAF housing? because velocity would slow down,,,so than I could subtract things with SAFC for timing advance and some power...

 

Will someone just post the link to the eBay chip? It does the same **** as all this nonsense and it's like $12 shipped. Buy ten of them, you'll make 400whp.

 

if you have nothing usefull to say don't say anything

 

you cant be serious, can you? nonsense would be us talking about something that doesnt give anything, like the ebay chip. sense would be considering all your options and understanding them all, like the ability to add timing by tricking the ECU into thinking there is less air than there is.

and no, a bigger MAF housing will NOT make you run richer. you will run lean unless something goes completely nuts like my car. however, once corrected by the safc its just like before, so unless you plan to make a custom intake then the bigger MAF housing is not for you.

 

yea ur right it will be leaner since bigger MAF would mean less velocity registered so less fuel added by ECU