I purchased a used Tuner and am a bit confused on the connections. The TurboXS manual is for the Pro, which is completely different.

Since mounting this thing in the cubby below my headunit would be a pain, I was maybe going to stick to using my Innovate DB gauge if I can figure out which wires are the analog 0-5v output.

Image 1
Long Red & White wires - those the power and ground wires, or 0-5v output?
2-prong connector - what is this for? 0-5v output?


Image 2
Red circle - 0-5v output or input?
Yellow circle - knock sensor input? I thought this was only on the Pro
White - used only for a 9v battery hookup?



I'm thinking the long red/white wires are for power, the 2-prong connector is for wideband gauge output (0-5v), and the red circled connector in image two is for a 0-5v input. I'd rather not blow things up trying though

As for the 0-5v input, would this allow me to add something like an EGT sensor to my UTEC logs? Or does the Tuner only add AFR to the normal UTEC logs?

Thanks guys!

 

The red circle in the 2nd pic around the 2 pin molex connector is a 0-5V output. TXS will send you a cable that plugs into that for $10 I think.

 

I found this. When I got it they had the red/white wire hard wired to the UTEC. I would say the white wire is the ground. I didn't have any instructions either, because their website wasn't ever updated with this tuner. I just emailed them and they were pretty good about helping me out with it.


Connect the red lead on the POWER lead to a switched and fused +12V supply (2amps). Connect the black lead on the POWER lead to a good earth.
Note: It is highly recommended that a hardwired connection to a switched +12V
power supply and ground be used. The use of the cigarette lighter is not
recommended due to the possibility of a poor connection

 

Well it's a little more complicated than that. You want the tuner to be powering the O2 sensor ONLY when the car is running. The only convenient power source to tap for that is the fuel relay wire leaving the IPDM behind the battery (need to find it in the FSM for your car). If you hook it to accessory you have to be careful not to leave the car in ACC without it running, without then letting the sensor cool off before starting the car. Otherwise the cold water vapor from a cold start will shock the preheated O2 sensor.

 

Alright, that makes sense. I'll contact TurboXS for that cable.

Thanks Matt for the great deal!

 

On your first pix the red and white wire is your ground and power. The 2 prong is for your knock sensor. I have that too but I don't have the knock sensor so its not connected on mine.

 

First of all this is the Link for the 2nd Gen Tuna (am lucky its on the CD dunno why they didn`t put it on their website ?!)

<a href="http://www.4shared.com/file/67544681/c34ed374/Tuner_Gen2_Users_Manual_Supplement.html" target=_blank>Tuner Gen2 Users Manual Supplement.doc</a>


No need to get the cable only from TurboXS u can find it anywhere just search for this:

Molex Micro-Fit Cable 2 Circuit

and use a DC Voltmeter to check which one is the positive and which one is the negative, if u saw - minus sign on the multimeter that means u have to switch the Positive and the Negative if it only reads voltage that mean ur ok the red one is the + and the - is the black, if you want to hook it with the Innovate DB Gauge do the follow:

DB Gauges got 4 wires

Red (this one should be connected to a ignition switched 12v source)
Black ( this one goes to the Negative terminal on Tuna its the ground of the 0-5v Analog Output )
Blue ( this one goes to the Positive terminal on Tuna which is basically the 0-5v signal )
Purpule ( this one should be hooked to the positive side of the parking lights or the Cigarette lighter light so it will activate the dimming feature during the night time, if you don`t want this feature just connect this wire to the ground )

ok once you finished from the wires u have to go to the user settings in the Tuna and chage the scale of the 0-5v do the follow :

** i took these scale values from Innovate DB Manual **

Analogue Output Minimum (0V) AFR: 7.35
Analogue Output Maximum (5V) AFR: 22.39

and make sure the analogue output is set to wide band by doing this

Analogue Output Mode (0 = Wideband. 1 = Narrowband) : 0

finally just do the Free Air Calibration and ur ready to roll

 

You guys rock, thanks!!

I was just going to hook up the Tuner power to IGN switched source, like I did with my Innovate LC-1. I'll just try not to leave it in the ON position too long before starting it up. And if I do, for loading maps on to the UTEC or whatnot, I'll be sure to turn it off for a bit to let it cool down.

 

Thanks again netshark!

Hopefully one last question - does anyone know if this O2 sensor is the VW one or the Bosch one? It looks the same as the one that came with my Innovate LC-1, except for the numbers/letters on it. I was just hoping to reuse it since it's in my cat already, but I don't know how different the VW one is. I know you can get the Bosch or the VW Tuner, and didn't know if there was anything different other than the O2 sensor and cable connecting to the Tuner.

 

the VW one is made by Bosch fwiw, bt fitment is the same with any brand

 

Anybody ever figure out how to bring an RPM signal into the tuner? I have the AEM UEGO piped into the tuner's 0-5v analog input, so I would love to compare both banks w/ RPM in the tuner... The digital input can do pulse per revolution, I never tried it w/ the input from coil #1 off the ECU.

 

I called TurboXS today, and they are shipping me out a 2-pin and 4-pin cable for $8

 

I sent a message to mw9, the previous owner, to ask this same question, but I figured I would see if you guys might know the answer...

I finally installed this today, but it's not interfacing with my UTEC at all. That extra option to switch to "UTEC mode" doesn't come up on the terminal. I verified that the serial port works on the UTEC, but I'm not so sure about the Tuner's port.

Is there something I'm missing - something I have to set or change in order to get it to work?

 

Just want to make sure you have it Utec -> Tuner -> laptop...

Put the key to start/on and wait for a few second before you start the car or the tuner. I have a switched for my Tuner and sometimes if I start the car really quick then the Tuner initialized before the Utec, my solution is turn off the tuner (Via Switch) and turn it on again while the car is already running.

 

+1, sent him a PM about this. That was the only thing I could also think of.

 

Well, I have the tuner wired up to a switched IGN source, so it turns on and starts warming up the same time the UTEC turns on. I actually haven't even started the car yet, but I don't think it would only work when the car is running - right?

 

If both are wired to the ignition then both will initialize at the same time... You dont have to start the car but make sure Utec boot up first before the Tuner.... Put a switched on the Tuner coz it is very helpful in restarting the Tuner... Or you can wire the Tuner to the accessory so when you start the car the Tuner get rebooted while the Utec is already on line...

 

While I can see a switch being helpful for rebooting it, it shouldn't need to be turned on after the UTEC in order for it to work. The manual states that the UTEC just needs to be booted before the Tuner is done with the warm-up cycle, which is like 20 seconds.

However, I'll have to run to Radio Shack and pick up a switch tomorrow.

 

Well you guys were right. After turning the ignition to ON, I unplugged the Tuner then plugged it back in, and it was connected to the UTEC. Quite lame. Would be nice if there was a built-in delay on the boot up of the unit.

So, here are my options - let me know what you think is best...

1.) Keep it wired to IGN but use a switch to turn it on right after I start the car.
2.) Wire it to ACC. Will turn on and start warmup, but then will shutoff for a second when cranking the car. Not sure this is the best. Plus, I would use to switch still to turn it off if I'm just listening to the stereo with the car off or something.
3.) Run a wire in from the fuel pump wire on the fuse block. Will then turn it on for a split second when IGN turns to ON, then will stay off until the car is started. Not sure if the quick on/off will be good for it.

I don't want to have to flip a switch every time I start the car, so maybe the fuel pump option is the best.

 

Damn it - just realized these settings only allow whole numbers, so I'll have to do 7 - 22 for the AFR. This means that my gauge will read about .35 too lean. I'll hopefully have a carputer by Spring though so I may be able to ditch the gauge all together.