NA UTEC Timing adjustment
#1
NA UTEC Timing adjustment
Hey guys,
So looking at the TXS NA base map vs the stock ECU, any idea why its so retarded? The green line is more or less the eyeballed shape of the stock ECU timing curve (you can see the trend with all the replicate data) while the red is the TXS OTS map for NA. Granted its just a base map, but its 5-9 degrees more retarded than stock.
When people take their cars to the dealer and have the timing advanced 2*, is that 2* at every load point, so say the stock ign is 27* at 6000 rpms, it is now 29*, etc??
Seems like people say you gain most power with only a few degrees advance, but it seems like if you start with a TXS base map, you'll be losing power and definitely need a dyno to even get back to base values.
Any other self NA tuners out there with timing values? Only helpful thread still seems to be one from 2006.
So looking at the TXS NA base map vs the stock ECU, any idea why its so retarded? The green line is more or less the eyeballed shape of the stock ECU timing curve (you can see the trend with all the replicate data) while the red is the TXS OTS map for NA. Granted its just a base map, but its 5-9 degrees more retarded than stock.
When people take their cars to the dealer and have the timing advanced 2*, is that 2* at every load point, so say the stock ign is 27* at 6000 rpms, it is now 29*, etc??
Seems like people say you gain most power with only a few degrees advance, but it seems like if you start with a TXS base map, you'll be losing power and definitely need a dyno to even get back to base values.
Any other self NA tuners out there with timing values? Only helpful thread still seems to be one from 2006.
Last edited by str8dum1; 01-26-2009 at 05:25 PM.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Base map are intended to be ultra conservative, base map is a starting point and very conservative so that you have a very small percentage of blowing or damaging your motor, it is never intended to be a plug and play tune. Look at the TN base map and you'll see how conservative it is. Base map is also conservative that it will know knock even if you put an 89octane gas. You cant also rely on the stock timing coz our ECU changes it's ignition depend on IAT so colder weather mean more timing advance.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your best thing to do is get your air fuel right and data log a 3rd gear pull 3 times and average out what stock ecu wants to run. And then adv from there untill you get knock. Then adj fuel. If you still get knock back off timing. Your set.
#4
ya, i guess I already knew the answers. It was more of a FWIW post I guess.
That blue data is about 8 pulls combined of the stock timing. I was just surprised how conservative the OTS basemap was, esp since most suby guys use those exclusively, with no extra tuning.
still does anyone know about how the Consult 2* advance works? broad 2* at every rpm?
That blue data is about 8 pulls combined of the stock timing. I was just surprised how conservative the OTS basemap was, esp since most suby guys use those exclusively, with no extra tuning.
still does anyone know about how the Consult 2* advance works? broad 2* at every rpm?
#5
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
the Consult is a fixed 2 degree advance, it's a constant through the rev range
Most Subaru guys definitely do not use OTS maps. They are designed to get the car started and running reasonably smoothly, but tha is it
Most Subaru guys definitely do not use OTS maps. They are designed to get the car started and running reasonably smoothly, but tha is it
#7
fixed 2 degrees. seems like alot of timing over stock as i'd be over 30-35 degrees at the mid to top end. but without seeing a timing chart on a UTEC tuned car, dont have enough experience to say if thats generally hi or not.
too bad theres not a DD dyno around here to actually tune on.
but considering I'm going to use this map like 4 times a year, I guess it doesnt matter much and fuel economy is the priority.
thanks
too bad theres not a DD dyno around here to actually tune on.
but considering I'm going to use this map like 4 times a year, I guess it doesnt matter much and fuel economy is the priority.
thanks
Last edited by str8dum1; 01-27-2009 at 07:40 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, dont worry about the timing to much since your main goal is to save some fuel on a very long driving. If you want max performance or will race with that tune then you are just contradicting your main goal.. You can still add a few degeree on the Utec base map and still be very safe..
#9
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I would not touch the timing through the Consult, I'd just leave it alone and let the utec run it. Truth be told even on my car, timing changes into the 30's made no difference, so we set it back towards a more stock oriented curve. On full race gas it might be different, I never tried
#11
Sponsor
Forged Performance
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
Max stock timing I see at 6600rpm is about 25-28 degrees. I havent seen anything in the 30's before stock. And as Adam mentioned advancing past mid 20's wont yield anymore power. The rev-ups probably show a little higher timing advance, given their higher redlines.
But agreed, the NA basemap has a pretty conservative timing map.
But agreed, the NA basemap has a pretty conservative timing map.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post