Out of curiosity.....
#3
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Sorry, i mean ignition timing.
It's not an exact science, but advancing it usually gives more power but also brings you closer to detonation. Retarding your timing usually saps power, but takes you away from detonation and generally keeps the tune more conservative. You generally want to retard timing when you go FI.
I've got my flame suit on now if i'm wrong.
Anyone have any answers to the first question?
It's not an exact science, but advancing it usually gives more power but also brings you closer to detonation. Retarding your timing usually saps power, but takes you away from detonation and generally keeps the tune more conservative. You generally want to retard timing when you go FI.
I've got my flame suit on now if i'm wrong.
Anyone have any answers to the first question?
#4
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thnx for explaining it...
from what i've read while doing a search for an answer to your question, it seems that some ppl do feel the difference, but others don't.
it mainly depends on the amount of power that u squeezed outta the engine. if you maxed it, the timing won't give u a difference, and it was advice to set it back to zero.
hope ^that helps a bit.
and i'm putting my flame suit now
from what i've read while doing a search for an answer to your question, it seems that some ppl do feel the difference, but others don't.
it mainly depends on the amount of power that u squeezed outta the engine. if you maxed it, the timing won't give u a difference, and it was advice to set it back to zero.
hope ^that helps a bit.
and i'm putting my flame suit now
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#5
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From my experience, the oem tune on a Z is already very near max best timing. This means that gains from adding timing would be negligible to non-existant. This remains true for most mild bolt on modifications, and more extreme modifications could require advancing or retarding timing to make best power.
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#9
I haz da turbos
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Yeah i'm going to be getting the cypher data logger once i get all my parts on, and get a few e-tunes done. (with the reflash obviously)
Dyno's around here are seriously lacking!
Dyno's around here are seriously lacking!
Last edited by ReV2Red; 08-18-2009 at 01:32 PM.
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i went to a Dallas meet and a friend was walking around with his laptop with cipher and he said he could bump up my timing 2 degrees if i wanted ... so i went ahead and did it ... i noticed a nice lil difference on the bottom end up to about 5500rpms but not much after that ... so i decided to take it to a dyno to see where my AFR's were, and it was way too lean (mid 14's) at WOT passed 5000rpms, which causes the ECU to actually pull timing to stop detonating .. and now i'm stuck back in Oklahoma with no way to reset my timing :-( lol
i have i/h/e so I'm sure i was already running a lil lean so that just sent it over the top lol
does anyone know if resetting your ECU will return it back to stock timing ? even after cipher bumped it up 2 degrees ??
i have i/h/e so I'm sure i was already running a lil lean so that just sent it over the top lol
does anyone know if resetting your ECU will return it back to stock timing ? even after cipher bumped it up 2 degrees ??
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From my experience, the oem tune on a Z is already very near max best timing. This means that gains from adding timing would be negligible to non-existant. This remains true for most mild bolt on modifications, and more extreme modifications could require advancing or retarding timing to make best power.
And yet some people swear the difference is over the top when you advance it 2 degrees via the cipher - they even list it as a 'mod'. The difference down low can be felt, but it's not worth the price of admission, especially since that is where you spend all your part throttle time (which is where the bad stuff tends to happen).
OP - the car will tell you where it wants to be as far as timing via datalogs on a dyno. Timing and fuel changes go hand in hand
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 08-21-2009 at 03:00 PM.
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i went to a Dallas meet and a friend was walking around with his laptop with cipher and he said he could bump up my timing 2 degrees if i wanted ... so i went ahead and did it ... i noticed a nice lil difference on the bottom end up to about 5500rpms but not much after that ... so i decided to take it to a dyno to see where my AFR's were, and it was way too lean (mid 14's) at WOT passed 5000rpms, which causes the ECU to actually pull timing to stop detonating .. and now i'm stuck back in Oklahoma with no way to reset my timing :-( lol
i have i/h/e so I'm sure i was already running a lil lean so that just sent it over the top lol
does anyone know if resetting your ECU will return it back to stock timing ? even after cipher bumped it up 2 degrees ??
i have i/h/e so I'm sure i was already running a lil lean so that just sent it over the top lol
does anyone know if resetting your ECU will return it back to stock timing ? even after cipher bumped it up 2 degrees ??