I've just got my haltech installed and tune. I am still experiencing some idling and stalling problem. Will pay the tune shop a visit to fix the problem coming monday.

That aside, what i need to know is if it is normal for the engine check light to keep appearing? I've tried resetting it to remove the check light but it keeps coming back after a couple of days.

BTW, I am still on narrowband, previously, before haltech installation, I never had this sort of problem.

 

With the haltech you should be able to have it tuned without the check engine light appearing and most haltech owners will be able to confirm this.

Most will be running the Haltech with a external wideband. If you have a narrowbands then I assume you have a 2003 Z. Get a WB fitted now to save you the cost in the long run.

We need to know what the codes are before anyone can really comment on what the issue is.

 

most codes appear from the cams

P011
p021

but there are soft cels and do not trigger a CEL on your dash.

 

list your setup.

what else was changed along with the haltech that could cause a code? Just installing a haltech shouldn't cause a code unless someone messed something up when installing. Mine went right in with no codes.

 

I have a CEL on, my code reader (not that expensive) does not pick up a code though. I has worked on the car before when I had no MAF, and at least 6 other cars every time.

Don't know why it does not pick this one up.

The code came on after about 350 miles of driving, and on the dyno.

 

sasha, i had a code for a while there once i put my engine back in after the head gasket blew. It never came up on my LM-2 scanner. The only way i found it was with the cipher. It was a CAN code for a miscommunication with abs. I used cipher and pulled the "abs codes" and it gave it to me there but regular codes it didn't give me any. Weird. It ended up being the connector came loose to my left from wheel sensor.

 

Thanks guys!

For power mod I have
Apexi filter, Kinetics Plenum, UR Pulley, Straight thru exhaust from header to muffler.

Yes i have narrowband and I have Haltech wideband with me, waiting to be installed.

Previously, I've done the spacer mod to cheat the ECU when the test pipe was installed (CAT removed). Since then I never see anymore CEL till Haltech ECU was installed.

 

I got code P0444 after installing the Haltech. According to the FSM:

EVAP CANISTER PURGE VOLUME CONTROL SOLENOID
VALVE

An excessively low voltage signal is sent
to ECM through the valve

Not sure why this would come on with the Haltech. My tune isn't great yet but it doesn't seem like this would be tune related? I check the valve and it is connected and functioning properly.

 

so you know it's functioning properly how?

could be completely random that it's a bad sensor.

 

Apply 12 volts to the valve while blowing into the hose with your mouth to confirm that the valve opens when it sees power and closes when power is removed. So I know the valve functions properly, now I have to troubleshoot the harness and check for continuity, short to ground, etc. Never got this CEL before the Haltech though.

 

weird. i think it could be a conincidence. The haltech doesn't directly control that.

i'm not sure the voltage ranges but there is a chance that the valve opens and closes properly but the computer "sees" a bad valve based on it's diagnostics.

 

Yes but the signal goes through the Haltech doesn't it? So if the Haltech had an an open EVAP circuit it would throw that code wouldn't it?

 

if the sensor is on the limit of being bad (functioning but sending off bad diagnostics) it has nothing to do with the haltech. that code runs right to the CAN of nissan and pops up as a code. I'm not sure what the limits are for that sensor. Sensors can be out of the code limit and still be withing a functional limit. rare, but happens.

 

Update on my (haltech) progress..

I haven't got time to install my Wideband yet and still, it has been throwing CEL every couple of days and I would clear it with the ECU reset combo. I've noticed that when the CEL comes on the idling is degraded until I clear it. I should get a reading on what code it is throwing but I am really busy recently. I am not whinning about my problem because I know I should go find out what code it is throwing out instead of speculating. I just wanted to share some new development (problem).

My car fail to start the other night, it would crank when I turn the ignition but it just won't fire up.

I have been driving my car for 3 years with stock ecu and this is the first time it wouldn't start (after installing the haltech). So I tried connecting my laptop to the ECU and it says "ECU Cannot be found".

I remember clearly that I could connect to the Haltech by turning the key to "ON" position without starting the engine previously. So I suspected a loose harness or dead Haltech ECU was the problem. I disconnected the Haltech and put back the stock ECU, it started up immediately.

I brought my car and haltech back to the tune shop and they reconnect it fired up without any problem *Before I went to the tune shop, I cleared the CEL*.

I went home and failed to start up again the next morning. I had a bit of time to troubleshoot so I tried the following

1. With Haltech => Can crank but won't fire up.

2. Laptop couldn't connect to Haltech (ECU Cannot be found), key at ON position

3. Disconnect Haltech, restore stock ecu, can start without problem. *Notice CEL on dash*

4. Put Haltech back in, cannot fireup and laptop cannot connect.

5. Restore stock ECU, clear CEL, reconnect Haltech => able to start.

To conclude, I suspect the problem is when the ECU throws certain CEL, with Haltech connected, the car won't fire up.

I am waiting for the problem resurface one more time and I rwill eplicate the solution I have to determine if I am right.

 

In the Haltech Manager Tools > Options > Communications change the COM port from AUTO to the one that is PnP. You can find this out from device manager when connected to the Haltech.

If you the device is not in device manager, try a different USB cable, try a different laptop, Check if there is +13.8v on PIN1 on Haltech Connector B and PIN 1 Haltech Connector C, Ground on Haltech ECU Connector B PIN 6, Ground on Haltech ECU Connector C PIN 10. Try wiggling the harness to see if it is bad contact also.

Hal should be able to confirm the pinouts above to test or correct me if they are wrong.

The ECU should be detected when in the "on" position

I find it hard to believe that a CEL light will stop you from connecting to the Haltech. Sure it may not allow the car to start but you should still be able to connect to the unit.

 

was it raining when you couldnt start your car?

 

+1 I've seen countless times that the main harness boot is not re sealed or snapped in completely when people run wires or other stuff through it and it ends up pooling water right on top of the ECU.

 

yes it happened to be raining for the past few weeks and ever the haltech wouldn't start it was or is raining... I suspected rain was the problem as well...Wats the problem with rain and haltech?

 

^ you were just told by djamps. Clean the connectors, check for bent pins, and waterproof the grommet for the main ecu harness (cover it with plastic wrap of some sort).

 

Thanks. I will work on that and feedback.

BTW, it hasn't rain for the past 1 week and I haven't been seeing the problem and also no CEL. I think the CEL is closely related to the rain as well.