Uprev tune
#21
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Several locals are pushing 270whp+ dynojet with basic bolt ons and a good uprev tune. An exhaust alone isn't going to cut it.
There are definitely gains to be had, but it takes the right mods and the right tune.
I don't think you'll be happy with the haltech on an n/a engine, as it probably won't drive like stock;there are too many tuning parameters to get 'exact' whereas with uprev you are basically working off the stock map.
There are definitely gains to be had, but it takes the right mods and the right tune.
I don't think you'll be happy with the haltech on an n/a engine, as it probably won't drive like stock;there are too many tuning parameters to get 'exact' whereas with uprev you are basically working off the stock map.
#25
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Rev-up motor
apexi intake
MREV2 & 5/16 spacer
labree resonated test pipes
XYZ pipe with resonator (now running straight pipe)
exoticspeed R1-T (3 inch single with dual mufflers)
and of course a dyno uprev tune
apexi intake
MREV2 & 5/16 spacer
labree resonated test pipes
XYZ pipe with resonator (now running straight pipe)
exoticspeed R1-T (3 inch single with dual mufflers)
and of course a dyno uprev tune
#34
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Thread Starter
Several locals are pushing 270whp+ dynojet with basic bolt ons and a good uprev tune. An exhaust alone isn't going to cut it.
There are definitely gains to be had, but it takes the right mods and the right tune.
I don't think you'll be happy with the haltech on an n/a engine, as it probably won't drive like stock;there are too many tuning parameters to get 'exact' whereas with uprev you are basically working off the stock map.
There are definitely gains to be had, but it takes the right mods and the right tune.
I don't think you'll be happy with the haltech on an n/a engine, as it probably won't drive like stock;there are too many tuning parameters to get 'exact' whereas with uprev you are basically working off the stock map.
Last edited by f-350z; 11-10-2010 at 02:19 PM.
#35
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i really appreciate your comment..
but depends on my poor knowledge, n/a setup is all about proper breathing setup + cams + con rods + pistons. so as i mentioned earlier that i have a plan to get the GTM SC, i still can make use of my N/A setup (except the intakes off course)
i know that n/a builds cant go further than certain numbers, but who knows, maybe i will be satisfied with the gain
but depends on my poor knowledge, n/a setup is all about proper breathing setup + cams + con rods + pistons. so as i mentioned earlier that i have a plan to get the GTM SC, i still can make use of my N/A setup (except the intakes off course)
i know that n/a builds cant go further than certain numbers, but who knows, maybe i will be satisfied with the gain
also, any decent cams plus the install will be at least half of the cost of a turbo kit so why waste money on something when you can just save a little longer and just go FI?
Cams truthfully are a huge waste of money for our applications. It's the least gain for cost out of any mod we could do. also, it would be a HORRIBLE idea to tear a block down and build an N/a build then go FI. You'll need higher compression to make good use of an n/a build and you will want lower compression to make a strong FI motor.
#36
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Thread Starter
The problem is N/a builds and engines are setup completely different than FI so you would be wasting tons of money if you are going FI in the future.
also, any decent cams plus the install will be at least half of the cost of a turbo kit so why waste money on something when you can just save a little longer and just go FI?
Cams truthfully are a huge waste of money for our applications. It's the least gain for cost out of any mod we could do. also, it would be a HORRIBLE idea to tear a block down and build an N/a build then go FI. You'll need higher compression to make good use of an n/a build and you will want lower compression to make a strong FI motor.
also, any decent cams plus the install will be at least half of the cost of a turbo kit so why waste money on something when you can just save a little longer and just go FI?
Cams truthfully are a huge waste of money for our applications. It's the least gain for cost out of any mod we could do. also, it would be a HORRIBLE idea to tear a block down and build an N/a build then go FI. You'll need higher compression to make good use of an n/a build and you will want lower compression to make a strong FI motor.
but on the other hand, FI is a headach for me. considering the weather in summer (54 C), plus rules here are very restrictive when renewing my car (living in UAE/Dubai)
in addition to that, i love hitting the track a lot, which is the reason why im building an N/A engine.
with regards to installation charges, how about paying 275$ as charges to install coilovers+EDFC controller+brake rotors+pads+under braces+fender braces ?
how about paying 435$ as charges to install heat wrapped headers+test pipes+catback + engine oil cooler+tranny oil cooler+replacing the whole pumpkin?
installing a turbo kit wont cost me more 950$
arent they fair prices?
Last edited by f-350z; 11-10-2010 at 02:45 PM.
#38
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with regards to installation charges, how about paying 275$ as charges to install coilovers+EDFC controller+brake rotors+pads+under braces+fender braces ?
how about paying 435$ as charges to install heat wrapped headers+test pipes+catback + engine oil cooler+tranny oil cooler+replacing the whole pumpkin?
installing a turbo kit wont cost me more 950$
arent they fair prices?
how about paying 435$ as charges to install heat wrapped headers+test pipes+catback + engine oil cooler+tranny oil cooler+replacing the whole pumpkin?
installing a turbo kit wont cost me more 950$
arent they fair prices?
you said CAMS. Cam installation is a 12hr rate job in the nissan book because the whle front of the engine and timing cover has to come off. That plus the 2000$ for the cost of cams that are worth buying is going to be near 3000$. Like i said, putting cams in is a waste for an n/a build or even an FI build under 600hp.
#39
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Thread Starter
you said CAMS. Cam installation is a 12hr rate job in the nissan book because the whle front of the engine and timing cover has to come off. That plus the 2000$ for the cost of cams that are worth buying is going to be near 3000$. Like i said, putting cams in is a waste for an n/a build or even an FI build under 600hp.
regarding the cost, Tomei Cams (1180$) + Valve Springs (382$) + shipping to my place (around 200$) will cost approx. 1762$ and if i consider adding installation charges, 300 -350 $ only
i got your point that N/A build is way more expensive than FI, and will never hit more than 350 whp. but i dont want any source of headache by going into TT setup. im in the researching stage of getting the SC kit, so i might go for it as its less headache.
FI vs N/A arguing will never end my friend but i can assure you that its a personal preference.