sickness! i'm going to get a used ecu and see if that doesn't solve some of my other issues i've had with timing not holding and the variance from left and right banks that hal couldn't get fixed.

 

Ordered (and paid for) a new ECU. Should arrive in a couple days. That means I'll have a toasted ECU available for testing if anybody wants it. At the very least it could help narrow down the cause of a particular error.

 

The new ECU solved my problem! The electronic gremlin is gone and I have smooth response without any noticeable glitches. It's great to drive but I have not done anything beyond the base tuning that comes on the OEM ECU.

After driving it for about two weeks, yesterday it refused to start on me. After a couple of hours I tried again and it worked. Drove to work, lunch and back to the office this morning and when I tried to leave for the day - no start. The starter turns over easily, but just keeps cranking. Both times the car was warm, but not hot.

Got fuel pressure, not sure about spark. Hard to check in a parking garage. Guess it's a tow truck back to my tuner for hot/cold start tweaks.

 

The non-start issue was a wet wire harness. Got everything dried out, then re-sealed the firewall wire harness boot. No problems since then.

New ECU is all good - build is running like butta.

 

Glad you got it sorted. I can't even count anymore how many issues I've seen with water getting thru the main harness boot above the ECU. I'd pretty much call it a design flaw at this point... no reason the ECU should be such an easy target for moisture.

 

I gotta agree with you.

Now that I have all the PLX modules and the Haltech as well, things have been moved around with a possible future leak in mind. It's all sealed up but I tried to give the electronics a better chance at surviving a failed boot.