Not calling him out over anything as long as I can fix it. He's in this thread and has been more than helpful so far. I'll get it figured out eventually.

 

oh, well if he is helping then that's a good sign. Still not honest to leave that info out before the sale.

Again, since it does it with the fcon I don't think it's a haltech issue. Maybe the connector wasn't seated very good on the oem ecu and when you took it out the connection with the oem harness made a better connection.

 

the reason why i dont think the wire is the issue: twist splicing is used a lot for various circuits around houses (switches etc) and they work fine

 

The issue with the FCON was actually just the poor tune. It ran on all 6, but unless you were at WOT it ran really rich. I was going to keep the FCON but the fact that it was so locked down made me want to switch. It wasn't till I swapped them that I started having a cylinder drop out.

That orange-black-orange wire was actually the best fix there; They were fairly solidly twisted together. The little ones .5" from the connector are the ones I'm worried about. Something appears to have rubbed through the insulation and most of the copper, and instead of being patched they were just taped over. I wouldn't be surprised if its just 2-3 strands of copper left making good connections in some of them.

Heading out in a few minutes to fix this

 

Fixed the wires, no better. Its now 100% for sure the Haltech or some wires in there that are buried in the plug itself in the Haltech's harness.

As a quick test, I hooked up the Nissan ECU and started the car, saw it was running on all 6 and shut it off. Swapped the Haltech back in (maybe 45-60 seconds max) and fired it back up and it rumbled along on 5 cylinders and started dripping gas out the wastegate. Shut it off, swapped the Nissan ECU back in (again, probably only 45-60 seconds of the engine being off) fired it up and it ran on all 6, no gas dripping out the exhaust.

Not sure what to do at this point.

 

Also, I should add that you were right, it was only two wires that were actually suspect, the rest were just taped to reinforce themselves. It looks like they probably got caught in the clip for the ECU connector and were pinched at one point. So unfortunately that was not the issue, which is a shame because it would've been an easy fix

 

just for grins, try loading up v1.06 firmware and see if that changes anything.

I had alot of problems when I upgraded my firmware. When I back back to old and rebuilt map and then upgraded again, everything was fine.

 

Firmware change seems to have helped. Even just reflashing 1.10.5 seems to have made a difference. Will play around with it some and see if I can get anywhere with it.

 

I was thinking the same things, but I assumed someone already suggested it and was too lazy to go back through the fread.

You think I should set my car up on 1.06 or the newest I can download? It hasn't been started yet, so might as well do it right the first time around. Just unsure of what 'right' is. Seems the only problem with newer firmwares is when you update to them. Or am I mistaken?

 

I was the seller. I had recently bought that haltech and harness from another member. Had no idea that it was patches or non functioning.

Not avoiding you op...I am out of town working log days.

Have you homed out the connections?
Wire splices are not optimum but far from a deal braeaker.

I have an issue with my oem harness where when hooked up to the haltech two pins pull out sice the harness/brick puts so much stress on the oem harness.

Took me a while to troubleshoot my oem harness when my tb would not open. The dc comm pin pulled out from the oem connector. I have to carefully position the harness so that it doesn't happen. Real annoying!

Let me know if I can do anything.

 

Yeah no worries. I think I'm onto something with the firmware downgrade. Unfortunately I'm also working quite a bit so I don't get nearly the time to play with this as I'd like.

I have not tested the connections on a pin by pin basis, I'd like to see if I can get my hands on the pinouts for the Haltech's 3 little plugs first so I can test the harness in its entirety. I don't think those splices were the cause of any issue after all.

I'll keep working with it, the fact that I've got it on all 6 cylinders now after messing with the firmware versions is a good sign.

Thanks again for all of your help in this

 

Just drove around the block without issue. Seems firmware was the problem all along. I've got logs of the whole thing, but the AFRs are still a bit weird as a result of all the residual fuel in the exhaust. Made a pretty nice smoke show the entire time, but AFRs and seat of the pants indicate that the engine is running properly. Going to do an oil change before messing with it any more; I don't even want to think about the oil:gas ratio of what's in the oil pan right now.

 

ya, clean out that explosion waiting to happen

glad to hear it's working. You might have to talk to hal about getting some custom firmware to work for your vehicle in the newer versions.

 

Yeah, that was a mess. The only good thing about that fuel in the exhaust is it helped find a cracked weld in the exhaust that I otherwise wouldn't have noticed.

I know Haltech states you can't do this, but has anyone used the long term fuel trim to assist in fine tuning a map? It's a bit easier than reviewing logs and revising the tables manually, given that there isn't a log analyze feature like the MS has. In addition it'll help in that I won't need to recruit one of my friends to tune on the fly from the passenger seat.

Looking at the configuration directions for long term trim, it certainly looks like it could be adapted to function identically to Megasquirt's autotune feature, which at least works fine for light to medium engine loads. I figure that Haltech most likely states to not use this as a way to tune the engine to discourage people from blowing their motor by relying on this at high load. Anyone have any experience on the issue?

 

i don't use it. I would log fuel trims and do a bunch of driving then review the material while doing trace and you can see if one cell you are on shows -10% fuel in the trims then take out 10% in that area.

got me pretty close. I turned off corrections and finished tuning them on the dyno though.

If you are in a cell that needs tuning you can just hit the "w" key to do an autotune function for that cell while driving.

 

Went driving around a bit just a few minutes ago. I'm still having issues with a cylinder dropping out under light to mid loads, though it's fine at both idle and higher RPMs. The engine is also stalling if the RPMs drop too quickly (pushing in the clutch instead of engine braking to a stop) but this is just an issue with tuning. I hope I can get to the bottom of the cylinder drop out issue, as that's the only thing keeping me from progressing with tuning right now.

 

I'm looking over the logs and I'm seeing some strange things here. I'm not seeing much in the way of O2 sensor fluctuation at all. For that entire drive, O2 is reading between 12.6 and 14.8, despite the engine stalling at times and Accel Enrichment not set up really at all.

I also see in the logs O2 correction trying to pull fuel and nothing happening. Steady RPM, TPS, and MAP, O2 correction falling 6%, and Injector duty cycle not changing at all.

That being said, the O2 sensor seems to be working as I see it's signal curves matching injector duty cycle. I can't tell if it's accurate though, given how little it seems to be moving.

 

Guess I spoke too soon about the firmware helping. The engine is still randomly dropping out 1-2 cylinders. My OBD scanner is saying that its detecting misfires on cyl 1 and 5. I might just fork out the money for a brand new Haltech which hopefully wont have these problems, but I'd really prefer to not shell out another 2 grand.

 

Hal can test it. Just email him and then send it in to be tested before you buy a whole new unit.

about it dying when you push the clutch in. Make sure in the Vac portion of the timing map you have it on copy through (C in all the cells). Mine stalls and dies when i accidentally turn copy through off. That won't fix the other fuel issues though.

 

I'll send Hal a message now. Copy through is enabled for almost all of the map which isn't in boost for right now.