I recently tuned my 2003 n/a 350z on a dyno and i got 243whp in 5th and 264whp in 4th i advanced timing a little got all wot air/fuel ratios to 12.8 and all i could get was the previous numbers. my mods are true duel cat back, gutted cats, kenetix racing manifold,intake,and thats about it. i noticed the cam phasing tuning option on the uprev tuner but i wasnt sure if i should mess with it any suggestions on this would be appreciated. i also read that people are tuning there maf sensore but im curious why would you do that to a stock maf? anyways any help would be nice i plan on using my dyno again next week.

 

Sounds about right...did you do the tuning yourself?

 

yes but i had help from another guy on this forum and an instructer i have free dyno use at my school

 

Those are realistic numbers for the bolt-ons you have.
Thats aboout as good as it gets.Actually,better than most with
the similar mods.What type/make of dyno was used?

 

How much timing you added?

 

Yea...just went over a couple other numbers and it is actually above average!

If you had free dyno time I can see tuning being a huge part of the power made. We have a couple guys who do self tuning using UpRev!

https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/5188...ing-101-a.html

I will soon be able to join discussion as in looking into a cheap carputer!

 

Yep, pretty dang good. I put down 265 corrected (uncorrected was *higher*) with intake, plenum spacer, Kinetix HFC, exhaust, UpRev.

 

My numbers are in my sig - pretty much same mods, but i'm auto. This was on a Dyno Dynamics

 

depending on dyno type, with free dyno time, i'd sweep thru MBT in every load cell and sweep cam phasing up to 35* past 2000 rpms.

I bet you can gain alot more area under the curve

 

im not sure what type of dyno to be completly honest. i bumped my timing up two then i ran it bumped it up three and ran it and found that two had better results. i didnt tune with my maf like others did i simply used the fuel maps. i only tuned the wot part of the map that way i didnt lose gas miliage at normal driving conditions. honestly the only thing i changed was timing and fuel im gonna adjust cam phasing next dynop run but hopefully i have a lighter flywheel and clutch to go along with it and maybe some 410 rear end gears. i have free dyno use but i only have about three hours to play with at any givin time. as far as cam phasing goes when you say 35 that cant be degrees so what is it measured in? im used to tuning with hondata and normally i adjust cams by 3 degrees intake and 1 exhaust so its a little bit different in that aspect.

 

by the way way y exhaust and intake are cheap ebay ones so i would say not everything from ebay is garbage i have had both for 2 years they are built pretty stought

 

Lol oh really

 

Thanks!

Do you know what's max. DC of your injectors now? Mine are at 90% with basic bolt on upgrades (POP Charger, MTD 5/6" spacer, test pipes) with dialed AFR 12,8 at WOT.

Cam phasing could be tuned on the road with enough effort I believe. Couple of 0-60 mph runs with logging AFR. If AFR leans with cam phasing that means engine sucks more air=more power and vice versa. Of course, for the best result, you need as much as possible same conditions (ambient temp, intake temp, humidity etc.).

 

Jealous of the free dyno time !

In for more

 

After research I can tell you anything over 80 percent duty cycle is actually hurting you. You need to up your fuel pressure or injector size 90 percent is way too high and your losing hp and gas mileage

 

Lol Jay surprised you didn't mention your 289whp DE

 

Well I never brag about it. I'm a firm believer as a dyno should be used for tuning not numbers. However I seem several and I mean several DEs not put down as much as me but then again like CIN said I had a weds car. But also I was giving it to rev ups HR with bolt ons no comp lol. Driver mod

 

Why should I lose hp and gas mileage if AFR is correct, even with 90% DC? Sure, I'm perfectly aware that current fuel system won't be able to cope with any new performance mod since there's no (much) more room for fueling.

 

For your comparison, OP. I got a DE non-revup.

I got custom ported lower plenum, res. test pipes, headers, HR Y-pipe, Trust Sp2 axleback, JWT C2 cams, Takeda CAI. Tuned with Unichip. I'm pushing around 260-265 whp on the Dastek Dyno.

 

your injectors are simply working to hard and with them being on that long your certainly spraying more fuel than you need and your gonna brake your injectors prematurely. it also wears out you fuel pump (granted your pump can handle 15% more fuel pressure than stock settings) faster than you want. your a/f ratio my be spot on but its not safe do to the extremly high duty cycle i would simply raise my fuel pressure 5 pounds and re work my fuel map to make it safer. you may not be losing power but is it worth having to buy replacement parts because of premature failure or is fixing it cheaper and easier thats your decision.