Just be patient and you may can buy mine soon. This is the first car IV ran 06 box brand new k&n and lalast owner wrapped pipe Idk why. Bit I'm gonna put it against a takeda. Just for.chits and giggles.

 

You mean patient on the timing I take it?

Let me know how the intake comparison goes

 

Correct. Ill post numbers. Also going to test my MD dual vs a Single and see how that turns out

 

if you didnt touch timing, then you are very lucky to even get the small gains you go. The only place to pick up any power on a NA tune is thru timing, as you can see how little was gained thru just adjusting AFR.

A proper tune will have way more and way less than just 2* across the board. Hopefully you didnt pay the tuner much.

 

400$ for the tune I'll post up the timing chart its choppy im street tuning it now to smooth it out

 

Oh and he did play with timing but said that for 2* timing he added the 2-3hp wasnt enough and that the timing was spiking

 

This is what I mean by choppy and a few spikes but without knowledge and a dyno its hard for me to do...

 

who knows, you might have been knocking and it was pulling timing.

 

DE FTL bro.

 

This is what I thought so I started pulling out timing where it was spiking haven't had a chance to do a few pulls and datalog though.

Yes I realize de aren't great but you can't always have what you want in life. I'm just trying to make do with what I have...

 

Those are good numbers on a DE...

Only thing with a DE is feeding it more air...

Cough...cosworth...cough

 

I rather save my money and build/boost the car when the time is right.

 

The NA road is a retarded one

 

Yup I have no plans to build an N/A motor just trying to get the most out of my bolt-ons and tune.

I ran a 13.7 with a 2.350 60ft so if I can get to low 13's I'll be happy

 

You guys STHAP. You can get a lot of horsepower out of a DE and still stay NA. You can get cams (est. $1200 in cost), all the mods op had (est. about $1500 if you shop around), Don't forget to keep your car in top shape with a tune up and oil changes, replace any worn bushings/parts/engine mounts that maybe worn because when the engine is vibrating out of control instead of staying in place your just wasting energy instead of keeping it in a compact stable place to propel the car forward (engine dampers est. cost around $200), under drive pulleys, new fuel pump, different pistons and rods, hopes, dreams and the tears of baby owls for fuel and you got a nice quick NA. DISCLAIMER: 80% chance you'll be paying more in the end than if you were to get a turbo kit or super charger kit. Unless you know how to shop around, the price of the tears of baby owls is kind of high nowadays.

 

Yup all motor build is pointless for most people and I know that I just can't afford to go turbo my car yet because I know the real life cost is more than anyone thinks when starting.

 

This is actually a pretty fast time for that crappy 60ft.

 

I know that why I'm hoping with a better 60ft I can run low 13's

 

Timing is supposed to jump around based on load. That log you have showing it jumping around shows the load right under it is jumping around. When you ease up the pedal the load is released and timing will jump way up. Most of that little screen cap you show is cruising timing in which the car adjusts it constantly and it will go from 0 all the way to 36 in a blink of an eye. You shouldn't mess with the driving timing map. The only thing you need to mess with is the wide open throttle and on the log you show it appears very smooth to me.

It sounds like you are confused about closed loop verses open loop and how timing works on cars. Also, guys that are near 300hp on a DE engine are putting near 20k into these engines. 250hp at the wheels with bolt ons is on par with a DE engine. It depends greatly on humidity, elevation, etc not just outside temp. Also, what is the temp in the shop? it could be -15* outside but in the shop it will be much warmer due to the car running and the heating system. Basically you have to see what your intake temps are not what the temp is outside.

On dynos, even going to the same dyno you can get upwards of a 5% swing in power on the dyno alone the same day pull after pull. Now add a year of time and probably wildly different humidity and environment then you get different numbers even with no change in setup.

 

I am still learning so bare with me.

Intake temp on cipher was around 24c I believe. This intake shoots to 40c on a hot day when idling ...

I understand timing will jump around when cruising / as load changes. I'm talking about the spikes where I highlighted from left to right is where I'm WOT and let off throttle.

I know a de won't make a lot of power but should a tuner not adjust timing at all when tuning a car?

The tuning on my car is still stock like I said I made 250whp with my tuning which I never touched timing (I asked Hal for guideline for AFR) and the tuner made 255whp still not touching timing just running a bit leaner which I knew I was running conservative because I had no dyno / wideband.