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OEM wideband accuracy

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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 09:30 PM
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Default OEM wideband accuracy

Has anyone compared the stock wideband sensors to a known good sensor to determine how accurate it is? Or if it isn't whether it tends to read richer or leaner?

I'm trying to clamp down on the MAF table so that I can narrow the difference between actual and target, but I'm realizing that relies on the OEM sensor being clinical enough to use.

I'm mostly concerned with high rpm, high load accuracy, it seems work perfectly for targeting during low load conditions.
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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Compared OEM on my car with VEMS round and it was quite on the spot. OEM supposed to be less accurate on a rich side, below AFR 11.5.
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 07:34 AM
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at high rpm there is less change since the exhaust gas velocity and temperature is more constant. There would be less difference in accuracy between sensors.

If you think its fine for low loads, its more than fine for WOT
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by T_K
Has anyone compared the stock wideband sensors to a known good sensor to determine how accurate it is? Or if it isn't whether it tends to read richer or leaner?

I'm trying to clamp down on the MAF table so that I can narrow the difference between actual and target, but I'm realizing that relies on the OEM sensor being clinical enough to use.

I'm mostly concerned with high rpm, high load accuracy, it seems work perfectly for targeting during low load conditions.

My LC-1 has been reading about 0.5 AFR richer than OEM wideband.
I have a spare sensor for the LC1 and it also read .5 AFR richer.

this was on both VHR and HR OEM sensor.
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 09:32 AM
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Alright, so at best it's spot on, and at worst it's half a point off towards the safe end; all the confirmation I need.
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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Mine are pretty spot on above 11.5. If they were 0.5 off, you'd eventually be throwing CEL's since they wouldn't line up with the narrowbands in steady state closed loop. It's far more likely the LC1 was either faulty or not properly free-air calibrated.

Last edited by djamps; Sep 27, 2013 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by djamps
Mine are pretty spot on above 11.5. If they were 0.5 off, you'd eventually be throwing CEL's since they wouldn't line up with the narrowbands in steady state closed loop. It's far more likely the LC1 was either faulty or not properly free-air calibrated.
I never had a CEL in two year when I had TP & HFC
I calibrated quite a few time with the sensor to free air, removed from the pipe. it was the exact same with my spare sensor

and it was within .2AFR from a sniffer sensor from where I used to go for dyno tuning/testing.

now the code are disactivated because I don't have the rear sensor at all.

edit; even if its off by a few point, its stable. Im use to this LC1 now and even if the normal max power is around 12.7afr on the OEM sensor ,, its mostly 12.3 on the LC1 which was found on dyno. So my target it this number instead of 12.7 from the OEM sensor.
at idle I cant get it to read 14.7 but about 14.2-14.3 (14.6-14.8 oem sensor)
the only way to get the LC1 to read a normal idle Afr is to run open loop but im not doing it since I learned from experience with it.

Last edited by XChacalX; Sep 27, 2013 at 08:19 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 05:39 AM
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If you have cats and the LC1 is downstream it's going to read a bit leaner especially at idle/cruize than the pre-cat sensors. But yours seems to be opposite. U sure that cats are good?

Last edited by djamps; Oct 1, 2013 at 05:40 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by djamps
If you have cats and the LC1 is downstream it's going to read a bit leaner especially at idle/cruize than the pre-cat sensors. But yours seems to be opposite. U sure that cats are good?
cats or no cats and sensor between the engine and the cats location

don't forget I also had/have the PPE header and an extra bung was welded for the LC1 wideband.

not stupid enough to put that sensor after a cats when I had a shorty headers.
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