Does anyone know of a shop that can e tune for FI? I've seen this done on a lot of other platforms (my ecoboost f150 for example). I know uprev says they won't do it. But I feel like a good tuner that is well versed in uprev software should be able to help me out. I'm literally 9 hours from the closest pro tuner...

 

Cars that all ready have FI motor can get a e-tune since you dont change that much in the tune typically. But once you put a Fi on a na motor you change almost every thing in the stock tune. Also it takes a few hours on a dyno to get a good tune. I dont think you can get the consistent data required to properly e-tune it. Your best bet is to start reading so you can self tune or find a friend with a truck and trailer and go for a road trip.

 

Well it's plenty drivable. I have a good tuner here. But he's no uprev expert. It's not the smooth drive I would like. And it's also a utec/uprev hybrid. I'm thinking of going full on uprev. I guess it could be a fun 500-600 mile road trip in basically any direction.

 

Where are you located?
The tune of a FI car is everything... Sometimes well with a 9hr trip of the Shop Tuning is extremely reputable.

 

I'm in Eastern montana. I don't remember exactly where off the top of my head but there's pro tuners in Rogers, Minnesota; a couple in Washington; aurora, Colorado; and Alberta and Saskatoon Canada. I haven't spoken with any of them yet, but the one in Rogers looks very nice on their site and I know that area. I had planned on posting a question about shops in the regional forums

 

Utec is easy. Get a Turboxs wideband controller that hooks directly to utec(I'm done using mine if you're interested) and then http://www.jeffsoftware.com/software.php?product=UTI-ME
You log a run on the street then send it in to UTI-ME after setting target af/r for each cell and it will tell you what to change to get to the target af/r

 

Do you already have an UpRev Tuner cable?

 

Thanks. I will pm you about that


Drako- yes I have the cable and tuner software.

I think maybe it would be helpful at this point if I added some info about my build.

Here's the high points on what I'm working with currently:

IPP stg 1 short block
Bc stg 2 cams and hd springs
Greddy 18g TT kit
Rc 440cc injectors
Dw 300 fuel pump
Cjm stage 0 frs
Act streetlite flywheel

Last dyno 446whp/443wtq on dynojet.

I had it tuned on a utec using the turboxs map sensor and boost control solenoid. But "had it tuned" I'm the middle of nowhere montana is more like I rented dyno time and tuned it myself with the advice of an old school tuner not at all versed in my software. Then I got a uprev to help with my idle and hot start issues and also drivability. The big uprev 101 thread has helped me a lot. But I have plenty left to learn.

I have the necessary parts to upgrade fr the 0 to stg 2 frs. I'm going to install that stuff and dw 1000cc injectors probably this winter. I would like to see 550 whp and if possible break I to the 600s.

Thanks for your input and help. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

 

Have you spoken with some of the shops around here that are known for great tuning:

Jon@Z1 Motorsports
2877 Carrollton Villa Rica Hwy
Carrollton, GA 30116
Ph: (770) 838-7777
-------------------------------------
Vince@R/T Tuning
R/T Tuning Speed Shop
635 W 3rd St
Lansdale, PA 19446
Ph: (215) 855-5565
-------------------------------------
Hal@Dynosty
13100 Middletown Ind Blvd
Louisville, KY 40223
Ph: (502) 384-8882

Anyone of the above shops should be able to help you with the E-tunes for UpRev. They'll walk you through the process of getting your car E-Tuned. They should definitely get you close to your goals but eventually to really fine tune the car... you'll need to get a Dyno Tune. Especially when messing with timing, you'll need a Dyno to gauge whether the changes made in timing increase power or not. No point in advancing timing if no power is gained.

 

Spend the time to learn the software. It's really not that hard to use. I hated it at first, but after a couple weeks it was second nature. On the one hand, I find it kind of silly that people pay others to tune their cars given how easy it is, but on the other hand I have friends who make a living doing it.

 

I wish it was that easy for me. I've read and read and messed around and everything I do makes it worse. Sometimes I think "if I just take ALL the fuel away it has to die right?" And zero out my fuel table. Nope. Just keeps surging at idle and being terrible. I pretty much HAVE to keep trying. But no matter what I do it makes it worse. So the car usually just sits in the garage. I wish I even had a good place to start... Even my go to tune that I go back to after I screw everything up is a joke most of the time. Other times it runs almost flawlessly and that's another thing I don't understand...

I have a lc-2 coming. So I should be able to start from scratch as indicated in the "osiris 101" thread. and I bought deadeye's utec tuner so that should help me tune out the small hiccups in the utec tune.

Does anyone know why when I flash the ECU when the engine is at operating temp my coolant overflow can overflows all over the ground? It NEVER does it even if I run the heck out of it and then park it immediately. But if I flash it, bam, overflow.

 

I haven't. But I will. If I can get close and maybe figure out this software I can work on timing locally. I have done that before with the utec, and my old split second when I had the procharger. Honestly other than a couple easily fixable hiccups I'm happy with the utec tune. This car runs GREAT on boost and at wot when the utec takes over. But not well at all for drivabiliry and idle. I'm all actuality I can keep the utec for the boost stuff as long as the tuner that I work with for the osiris doesn't have a problem with that.

Update:

I called dynosty and rt and uprev directly. None of them will etune even just the out of boost part. The guy I talked to at uprev didn't seem to understand what I was talking about. "Too much liability". I don't agree with that in my particular situation. Z1 had me on hold longer than I had time for. I'll try later.

 

What MAF sensor are you using?

You should download a base map for your vehicle cpu from uprev and start from scratch. I would also clear the learned fuel table and get rid of the piggyback.

 

Stock maf because the utec uses speed density.

I did download their base map. But from my understanding of Djamps instructions I'm basically going to have to change it all anyway due to the injectors

 

Before anything... You have to make up your mind on whether you're going UpRev alone or your so called hybrid.

 

Ha ha. Fair enough. I can agree with that. For right now it's staying "hybrid". It doesn't seem like it should be this difficult to dial in fuel for -1 in/hg and below. Hopefully the new equipment will help me. If a 2003 LS touring shows up in the classifieds you'll know why....