Does anyone have a baseline tune i can use for my car so i can get it to my tuner who is 31 miles away.

I have a Haltech Redbox.
11:1 Compression
BC stg 2 cams w/springs,
OBX Longtubes into HKS replica exhaust
05 G35 intake,
5/16 Plenum Spacer,
Stg 1 FRS w/either Stock injectors (not sure if they are big enough) or i have DW 440's

I would like to set my red line to 7500 but that will depend on where power falls off.

Thanks everyone.

 

I think if you call dynasty or any reputable shop they can link in and help you with a baseline.

Have you thought of playing with the basics to get it to run safety? That's all I did to get my car to the tuner/shop.

I run pig rich with 750cc's on my set up NA but it's a safe tune to drive on. Doesn't like like you are on FI so it shouldn't be too hard to find a safe base tweak to get running.

 

The only problem is i don't want to mess anything up since it will be a brand new engine that will be getting broken in on the dyno.

 

Well if you drive it is that really true? Haha

Why not just invest in a tow?

 

I may just get a tow, its seeming like the least pain in the butt way to ensure nothing bad happens.

 

Id get a tow ... but if you drive it supposedly the starter maps Haltech puts out are pretty safe.

Are you running a closed loop feedback on your o2 sensors?

 

Im not 100% sure what that means but i do have a innovate DLG-1 wideband wired into the ECU so i can see what both banks are doing and the ECU can fix it.

 

^that's what I'm talking about...does the redbox have closed loop AFR control? Meaning can your haltech adjust the AFR automatically based on what the engine is doing? Do you have a fuel target table?

 

Oh, yes it has a option for the ECU to make corrections to try and get it to what ever I set as my target AFRs.

 

Doesn't the ECU only do so much tho?

If it's slightly off it should correct it, but if you're way off like I was with my big injectors it can only fix the AFR so much.

Just like my cranking priming cycle. I had to recuse that by crap tons before it would turn over with out a WOT start.

 

If I recall correctly when playing with it last year I could adjust how much it could correct.

 

For my Haltech folks, what is better for a NA tune MAF or VE? Also does anyone know the injector information for stock injectors? I know they are 290cc but I don't know the specs at specific voltages or line pressure.

 

for simplicity, seeing where you're at, just use the MAF. You can go VE and eliminate your MAF (add a GM temp sensor down the road).

Take one step at a time, get the car up and running ... I'm sure the OEM data is out there although I dont have it immediately off the top of my head.