After jimwolf cam install will not start :(
12-06-2018, 08:41 PM
#1
After jimwolf cam install will not start :(
Specs
-VQ35de Non rev up
-Wiseco 8.8.1
-VQ35de Non rev up
-Wiseco 8.8.1
-jimwolf c2 cams/ spring/shims
-Haltech pnp platnum red box
-Compress is 150psi across the board
-id 1000 injector
-fuel presure is set to 40
My Car will not start. When i turn the key I get spark and fuel but no start. When i crank it cranks and when i let go of key i get 2 puffs sound like it want to start but doen't. the car was running before the cam install. I changed new crank/ both cam sensors OEM. Changed both pig tails to cam sensors.
I see rpm on the computer. I even tried to chim the cam sensors. no good? I don't know where else to start. I sent injectors to get cleaned too.
I also removed the transmission to see if the fly wheels was a TDC. I have check the cam timing all marking align up. and it looks great. I don't know what to do know i am out of ideas.
I want think of putting stock injectors in and try to start car but i don't have MAF. I use the temp sensor from the haltech. Will it fire up with no tranny no maf?
-Haltech pnp platnum red box
-Compress is 150psi across the board
-id 1000 injector
-fuel presure is set to 40
My Car will not start. When i turn the key I get spark and fuel but no start. When i crank it cranks and when i let go of key i get 2 puffs sound like it want to start but doen't. the car was running before the cam install. I changed new crank/ both cam sensors OEM. Changed both pig tails to cam sensors.
I see rpm on the computer. I even tried to chim the cam sensors. no good? I don't know where else to start. I sent injectors to get cleaned too.
I also removed the transmission to see if the fly wheels was a TDC. I have check the cam timing all marking align up. and it looks great. I don't know what to do know i am out of ideas.
I want think of putting stock injectors in and try to start car but i don't have MAF. I use the temp sensor from the haltech. Will it fire up with no tranny no maf?
Last edited by specialist; 12-06-2018 at 09:03 PM.
12-07-2018, 02:18 AM
#2
I hope you get it sorted ASAP.
As long as you're confident they're genuine Nissan sensors, I guess maybe one could be faulty ?
I bought a cheapo Chinese ebay one a couple of years ago, they never work but I got a refund so no problem.
As long as you're confident they're genuine Nissan sensors, I guess maybe one could be faulty ?
I bought a cheapo Chinese ebay one a couple of years ago, they never work but I got a refund so no problem.
12-07-2018, 06:14 AM
#3
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Specs
-VQ35de Non rev up
-Wiseco 8.8.1
-VQ35de Non rev up
-Wiseco 8.8.1
-jimwolf c2 cams/ spring/shims
-Haltech pnp platnum red box
-Compress is 150psi across the board
-id 1000 injector
-fuel presure is set to 40
My Car will not start. When i turn the key I get spark and fuel but no start. When i crank it cranks and when i let go of key i get 2 puffs sound like it want to start but doen't. the car was running before the cam install. I changed new crank/ both cam sensors OEM. Changed both pig tails to cam sensors.
I see rpm on the computer. I even tried to chim the cam sensors. no good? I don't know where else to start. I sent injectors to get cleaned too.
I also removed the transmission to see if the fly wheels was a TDC. I have check the cam timing all marking align up. and it looks great. I don't know what to do know i am out of ideas.
I want think of putting stock injectors in and try to start car but i don't have MAF. I use the temp sensor from the haltech. Will it fire up with no tranny no maf?
-Haltech pnp platnum red box
-Compress is 150psi across the board
-id 1000 injector
-fuel presure is set to 40
My Car will not start. When i turn the key I get spark and fuel but no start. When i crank it cranks and when i let go of key i get 2 puffs sound like it want to start but doen't. the car was running before the cam install. I changed new crank/ both cam sensors OEM. Changed both pig tails to cam sensors.
I see rpm on the computer. I even tried to chim the cam sensors. no good? I don't know where else to start. I sent injectors to get cleaned too.
I also removed the transmission to see if the fly wheels was a TDC. I have check the cam timing all marking align up. and it looks great. I don't know what to do know i am out of ideas.
I want think of putting stock injectors in and try to start car but i don't have MAF. I use the temp sensor from the haltech. Will it fire up with no tranny no maf?
Did you set the Haltech to tune off VE (so it's not looking for a signal from the MAF)?
Are you 100% sure your coil packs were re-installed correctly? Cylinders 4 & 6 get mis-matched often
You need to set your fuel pressure to 52psi and are your injectors correctly calibrated in the haltech - as far as dwell and flow rate (my ID1000s run 1030cc at 52psi (I think...theres a spreadsheet from ID to help you with this).
I wouldn't start the car without the transmission
What are your plans for the car / build?
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RobPhoboS (12-07-2018)
12-07-2018, 07:11 AM
#5
Once you've figured it out, please do post up what the fix was !
Nice number
Nice number
12-07-2018, 10:31 AM
#6
trying to start the motor with out tranny just easier to do a diagnose bolted starter
Tried for fun to put the fly wheel 180 out it back fires hard
But when it is right you don't hear anything
changed the injector harness. because i had spare no difference.
i know i am getting fuel because i pull plugs and see the fuel on it.
I bought three aftermarket one still no good.
Check voltages of car and they look good.
Check with timing light to verify firing order verify 1 & 4 near tdc
3&5 are at 120 / 240 out
Pull cam off cam and spun motor back to the chain guides markings algin up
Checked air gap to cam sensor and wheel
some threads said that you are suppose to get 2-3 misses when reading on the halech miscounter. 90% of the the time i get 0 misses
Check the ring hear to see if the fly wheel was installed correctly.
I will post more when i get more information
Tried for fun to put the fly wheel 180 out it back fires hard
But when it is right you don't hear anything
changed the injector harness. because i had spare no difference.
i know i am getting fuel because i pull plugs and see the fuel on it.
I bought three aftermarket one still no good.
Check voltages of car and they look good.
Check with timing light to verify firing order verify 1 & 4 near tdc
3&5 are at 120 / 240 out
Pull cam off cam and spun motor back to the chain guides markings algin up
Checked air gap to cam sensor and wheel
some threads said that you are suppose to get 2-3 misses when reading on the halech miscounter. 90% of the the time i get 0 misses
Check the ring hear to see if the fly wheel was installed correctly.
I will post more when i get more information
05-26-2019, 04:58 PM
#7
Solution: I had a bad ground on the wire harness. Tracing that thing was bad. pulled it out and put it back
The car idles at 900rpm which is great. When i rev it up a little but it is fine. When i rev it hard it dips down under 500rpm then the idel goes up and down and will not go back to the 900rpm. the idel is like it is searching or for something. I wonder if anyone else has this problem with cams. when idles on it ownes it is 14.7afrs
maybe i need to start playing with the haltechs cam phasing on the intake cam
Also jimwolf c2 cams i don't really get the lobe feeling. but that is ok may be not that aggressive like a ls cam.
The car idles at 900rpm which is great. When i rev it up a little but it is fine. When i rev it hard it dips down under 500rpm then the idel goes up and down and will not go back to the 900rpm. the idel is like it is searching or for something. I wonder if anyone else has this problem with cams. when idles on it ownes it is 14.7afrs
maybe i need to start playing with the haltechs cam phasing on the intake cam
Also jimwolf c2 cams i don't really get the lobe feeling. but that is ok may be not that aggressive like a ls cam.
Last edited by specialist; 05-26-2019 at 05:03 PM.
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07-22-2019, 02:56 PM
#8
So i was just about to put it on dyno i notice i don't get cam readings they are intermittent which is bad. I am not sure where to start. I am going to start look at the wire from the cam sensors i wonder if i should run new wires from cam sensors straight to haltech.
I notice when you display the cam readings sometimes at idel when it working it flickers to -neg at idle. the map is at 0.0
But i don't know how the car even starts if you don't have a cam reading.
I also have a engine soon light
related to the o2 sensors all 4 I don't have them due to haltech dual wideband
If you have wire diagram of haltech that would be great. and stock wire diagram. I will keep looking.
I am getting close to finsih this damn car i am losing faith lol
I notice when you display the cam readings sometimes at idel when it working it flickers to -neg at idle. the map is at 0.0
But i don't know how the car even starts if you don't have a cam reading.
I also have a engine soon light
related to the o2 sensors all 4 I don't have them due to haltech dual wideband
If you have wire diagram of haltech that would be great. and stock wire diagram. I will keep looking.
I am getting close to finsih this damn car i am losing faith lol
Last edited by specialist; 07-22-2019 at 03:22 PM.
07-22-2019, 04:16 PM
#9
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
The haltech has intermittent issues recognizing aftermarket cams. I had this issue too. The solution (there should be a thread around here on it) is to sweep the rpms from idle to redline - which supposedly resets the haltech's ability to recognize cam timing (This is what Hal told me over at Dynosty).
08-04-2019, 04:28 PM
#11
The haltech has intermittent issues recognizing aftermarket cams. I had this issue too. The solution (there should be a thread around here on it) is to sweep the rpms from idle to redline - which supposedly resets the haltech's ability to recognize cam timing (This is what Hal told me over at Dynosty).
I never done that before.
Do you think a new haltech pnp full stand alone will work? or the 2500 elite?
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