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I've got a 2006 Nissan 350Z. Right now I've got a JWT Popcharger Air Filter (part #: P3503P3503-1XCN7), and a cat-back Tomei Expreme TI exhaust. I'm looking to dyno tune it and I have no idea where to start. I have somewhat of a general understanding of what tuning does, but I know there is equipment i need and no idea what it is. So my question is, what should I buy prior to taking it in to the shop, and what products are out there. I've looked around on here and found there is UpRev, Haltech, and Link as the most reputable ?ECU's?. Since I only have the two modifications on the car, what would you guys recommend?
Youre gonna be limited to Haltech, Link, AEM Infinity, Uprev. … If you think you're only going to do basic bolt-ons (intake/plenum/exhaust) stick with Uprev, it'll be the most cost effective and it's everything you need and nothing you don't.
If you are going to look into a supercharger or turbo setup than consider Haltech, Link, AEM. But Uprev will be fine for entry to mid-level turbo/supercharger builds.
you have the 'rev-up' engine? So just be 10,000% sure that whatever ECU you get, that it's compatible with your engine (most are, just double check).
Right now I've just got the bolt-ons, and won't be adding much for a while. Eventually I want to do a jwt twin turbo build, but that won't be for several years. Although, I may settle for a single turbo build.
what do you mean by this? Right now I've just got the bolt-ons, and won't be adding much for a while. Eventually I want to do a jwt twin turbo build, but that won't be for several years. Although, I may settle for a single turbo build.
You have a 2006 350z … what engine do you have under the hood? 2006 shoooooouuuullllldddd have the 'rev-up' engine
2003-2005 have DE Engine
2006 (and some 2005 models) have the Rev-Up Engine
2007-2008 have the HR engine
if you got a picture of your engine / engine bay upload it and we'll let you know.
You probably want Uprev for now...if a turbo or supercharger build is in your distant future, you can upgrade at that point if the Uprev isn't the right tuning solution.
ehhhhh...I think it's a Rev-Up ... it looks like you have phasers on the exhaust cams on the front of the engine (which a DE doesnt have).
Yes definitely a revup. For the OP how long you had this car...? check the oil every 500mi or less until you find out if you won the lotto or not!
You can purchase Uprev standard direct from Uprev for $550, it comes with 3 free e-tunes. They'll ship you a cable, you install the software, connect to your car and send Uprev your ecu configuration and modifications. They'll get back to you with a file to flash to the ecu. From there you datalog and send them the log, they'll revise it and repeat 3 times. Keep in mind every engine change you make affects your tune... so it's best to have everything on the car in the state you want the tune adjusted for. If you have a local dyno tuner that does uprev, they can do the same thing and just flash your ecu for you. I like having the cable though, you can clear codes and see data you don't have access to with a normal obd2 scanner.
i know i have used dry filters on my old takeda setup, with the cadi, and both vettes. just curious, because i would hate for him if that was a dry "oiled" filter
Yes definitely a revup. For the OP how long you had this car...? check the oil every 500mi or less until you find out if you won the lotto or not!
You can purchase Uprev standard direct from Uprev for $550, it comes with 3 free e-tunes. They'll ship you a cable, you install the software, connect to your car and send Uprev your ecu configuration and modifications. They'll get back to you with a file to flash to the ecu. From there you datalog and send them the log, they'll revise it and repeat 3 times. Keep in mind every engine change you make affects your tune... so it's best to have everything on the car in the state you want the tune adjusted for. If you have a local dyno tuner that does uprev, they can do the same thing and just flash your ecu for you. I like having the cable though, you can clear codes and see data you don't have access to with a normal obd2 scanner.
It's coming up on 3 years since i bought the car, was an 06 with 49k miles. Came with conventional oil, changed that at 3k miles, looked good and switched to synthetic. Since I've gotten the synthetic I've had it changed every 5k. Every time I've changed the oil it has looked good. Not sure what the significance is if i check it every 500 miles as you said.
i would see, my understanding is the oiled "flow" better because the oil traps the dirt, then the filter material. on the dry the filtering is better (tighter) because the filter itself is doing the work
i am just lazy, didnt like cleaning the filter, waiting for it to dry, then oil it, wait for it to set. with dry reusable you rinse with water from the inside out, let dry