I let my car warm up to the C line. Between this and the normal (just over 1/4 temp) the car goes like a scalded cat.
Then once it reaches normal, its a dog.
Any ideas?
There is no engine light.
The car has 80,000KMS on it
Running 94 Chevron and/or Shell 91

thanks

 

1st thing I'd check/replace is the coolant temp sensor for resistance. If resistance is 0 or infinity it's fried.

 

The one for the ECU?
I was thinking this and maybe the fuel temp sensor?


I see it says the ECT sensor will give a light?

Quote:

Symptoms of a failed 350Z ECT sensor

My fan works, no overheat, cold map is when it has power, no light

check anyway?
I'm gonna do a coolant flush, maybe I'll just replace the sensor while I'm at it.
Any other ideas?

thanks!

 

Here's a pic. You can either test for Ohms or replace- they're like $15.

 

Maybe you have some dirty injectors or fuel? Engines run richer when cold, any modifications?

 

no mods. I couldn't see it running like a champ then not if it was fuel.
It pulls hard and then its like valet mode or something 10 minutes later.
Maybe its the fuel map for Japan?
2003 was a bad year for capacitors. Hopefully thats not it.

It has the cell cord in the console, maybe its a disguise tuner jack?
I'm gonna verify the brake switches aren't sticking but it does rev past 3000

Also I only got 1 key. I wonder if theres a race key or something?
No cruise buttons so I dont think it has maps.

 

How bad is it running? As heat rises so does electric resistance so it could just be something getting faulty at higher temps.

 

I runs good but its like the power lags and it wants to think about it way too long.
When its cooler, warming up, its an animal.
Theres no miss or studder, just a lack of power, like 1/4 throttle then it gives you a small taste but thats it.
I'm gonna try the ECT sensor to rule that out.

I was hoping someone that had a similar issue might chime in.

Also its pretty hard on gas, 7.2KM for each liter

 

I changed the ect sensor and no difference.
I did a ECU reset and it bought the power back, it was running like a champ.
Now the next day the power is dropping off, from a start it pulls then lets off then pulls again but after the ecu reset it really pulled hard.
Still no codes.
I also did a coolants flush with distilled water and put a jug of this in:

 

I took it to fountain tire here where I seen a guy with similar cars.
He did a scan for me and it showed a knock sensor code.
I'll be fishing the harness out and replacing it to see if its just a bad connection.

 

Did some poking around.
I'm going to try and fish the sub harness out, inspect and rebuild it with RG316 coax.
I may temporarly relocate the knock sensor. Then man-up and pull the intake.
I wonder if thats the oem sensor? Maybe it was replaced and it was the haress?

We'll see




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MIk...ature=youtu.be

 

I'm seriously considering coming in from the back to get it out.

 

I managed to get the knock sensor out and replace it from the back of the engine.
I checked pin one on the harness, 4.7x volts.
Car is still a dog when its warm.
I'm going to remove and inspect the harnass next I guess.
wonder what else would throw a knock sensor code?

I just did the pedal dance, it seems to be ok but time will tell.
I'll update

 

It seems to be running alot better with the new knock sensor.
I think the ecu reset must be done

 

I got the harness out. I may buy more connectors and rebuild it.
Heres some data sheets for anyone needing help to find parts and save a few bucks.

https://desconnect.net/docs/products...817_HRK_50.pdf

E02FL-RS
6189-0777

https://desconnect.net/docs/J-48817_HRK/mp4/E-183.mp4

http://prd.sws.co.jp/components/series/pdf/cn/rs.pdf

 

So the verdict is: KNOCK SENSOR
I'm going to replace the sub harness as well because its brittle.

So no power, lagging throttle respone and P0327 or P0328 code that doesn't trip a cel light.
Also unless you like giving money away, go to the Mazda dealer and buy the same knock sensor the Nissan dealer sells
part # PE0118921

Hope this helps someone

 

I know you're chasing gremlins atm but a bit of friendly advice-
You were talking about working on the knock sensor and intake at the same time? It may be slower but if you work on 1 variable at a time and it is worse then you know exactly where to focus. If you're troubleshooting and change multiple items and it's worse how are you going to know which to undo?
.02 GL !

 

No I left the intake on. Got to the knock sensor from the back with a flex socket.
Knock sensor replaced, power it back

 

Bought a harness from Nissan
Cost me $160CAD but at least its a good OEM one.
Maybe I put the fuel injector part on ebay and get some money back
part # 24079-CD000

 

I ended up getting the knock sensor in from the front and got a socket on it from the back.
Car runs great.

NSFW words














This attatchment style was the one that was able to crack the bolt and retighten it.
the one above was better to get it started which was not too hard.