ZBoater

Yes, I waited till about 2,500 miles before I started messing with my Z...

350Zenophile

iTrader: (20)

ah, right you are deviant1...I keyed in on one of his first posts where he said: "My first dyno run after the install provided roughly 215 HP and 214 ft/lbs. That is about an 11 HP and 9 ft/lbs loss!!"

His AFR is appreciably leaner than ZBoater's which lends credence to the newer ECU being more adept at correcting it.

TECHNOSQUARE

It's actually quite the opposite. With most 2004.5 and newer, we've found them to run dangerously lean after adding mods. From the factory, the cars are lean to begin with.
If his build date's 07/03, then it is still the 2003 ECU and not the 2004.5 version. Those started from 10/03 and on.
We are very close to releasing the 2004.5 ECUs for the 350Z and the G35's.

Mr Twisted

Mity Maps are in from Japan and Mod maps are being developed as we speak for the R4 & R5 Ecu's.

T/S installed the first production prototype Ecu in my 04 Base which has a R5 Ecu. a couple of weeks ago. After 3000 mi breakin ( had to get a new oil change) we install the new modified maps. The car came to life.A/F when from 14.5 to 12.8-13

Tadashi worked for 4.5 hours Fine tuning the Twisted II (Popcharger & Stillen catback exhaust) only.

Next week we will be dyno & fine tuning it even tighter, before they offer it to the public, so stay tuned for the numbers.

ZBoater

Ok, so if I look at my A/F chart, what should I do? (a link is in my sig). Looks fine to me. I have an 04/04 build date. I did two dynos with A/F sensors, one connected directly to where an O2 sensor connects and another to the tailpipe. Both readings were similar. Is there something else I should be looking for?

Thanks for your help.

350Zenophile

iTrader: (20)

Can anyone explain the anomaly that is ZBoater? I want his ECU.

Hey ZBoater, where'd you get your dyno's and installs done? I'm looking for someone in the TB area to install my headers and cats. Thanks!

ZBoater

I think the anomaly can only be explained by a distortion of time-space and the alignment of the planets...

For a dyno in Tampa, the folks at Coastal Chassis Dyno can hook you up. They are located in Brandon. If you are a member of the 350Z Club of Florida they even give you a discount. Their number is 813-849-2423.

For installs, I had all my NISMO stuff done by my dealer, Autoway Nissan of Clearwater. They are very mod friendly and Craig (my service advisor) is awesome. If you call them tell them the guy with the black NISMO roadster sent ya. He'll take care of you.

Also, Autoway Nissan of Brandon is a sponsor of our 350Z club, so they are very mod friendly. Depending on where you live you can choose either one and won't go wrong.

TECHNOSQUARE

Hi Zboater. If you took out the factory O2 sensor and plugged in a wideband O2 for the run, I would have to throw out your A/F readings. When you take out the O2 and leave it hanging, the computer is going to richen up the car by a lot. If you disconnect the O2, it will go to default and run richer than normal and cause the CEL to come on too.

ZBoater

Well, I have to assume the guy knew what he was doing, and that was on one of the dynos. The other dyno used the tailpipe sensor, and the readings where similar.

Here is the link for the dyno that used the O2 sensor:

http://www.quiros.net/350z/dynos/100804AF.jpg

And here is the link for the other dyno, the one that used the tailpipe sensor:

http://www.quiros.net/350z/dynos/100904AF.jpg

With the two of them being so close to each other, I have no reason to doubt where my A/F is at this point. Also, the CEL light never came on in either case.

I am just trying to understand so I can make an informed decision. Any feedback or suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks!!!

TECHNOSQUARE

I'm trying to understand the first A/F reading. It looks like the guy held the throttle at around 4K rpm for 11 seconds to read the A/F?

ZBoater

Yeah, that graph is weird. No, the rpm is the yellow line (very faint) and is a straight diagonal line going up. The AF is the red line which fluctuates between 13.5 and 12.5. The aux line doesnt mean anything, it was some other measurement that wasnt used. What makes it weird is that both AF and RPM are on the left column (y axis), but the yellow line is meant to indicate a steady progression up the RPM range and the red line is the AF throughout that range.

TECHNOSQUARE

Ah, gotcha. Talk about faint. I didn't even see the yellow line till you mentioned it!
Well, we just did Mr Twisted's car today and if we have a chance, we'll post the dyno results from before and after. His AFR was similar to yours yet he still gained a decent amount of power from just having an exhaust and intake. His car is a 2004.5 btw.

scz

iTrader: (1)

BTW, can you check if my 2004.5 g35 coupe ecu is back from japan yet? If so, let me know how it went.

neffster

iTrader: (2)

Brian,
Is there a 2004.5 G35 Crawford Package Reflash (headers, cats, plenum)? If so, would you still need an A/F chart with the ECU?

TECHNOSQUARE

For now, we would like to have an A/F chart with all 2004.5's that want to reflash. Also, we're still waiting on a few things to release the G35's.

ZinMiami

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for the ignorance, but is there a way to get the A/F readings without a dyno?

scz

iTrader: (1)

Wideband A/F guage for $500 or dyno for $80.

ZinMiami

iTrader: (2)

Good Answer!

jreiter

iTrader: (6)

Regarding A/F measurements on a dyno and what some folks posted up above, how exactly do you get an accurate A/F reading on a dyno? Those tail pipe sniffers are after the cats, so wouldn't that greatly affect the a/f reading? I would guess you'd want the dyno's sensor to be before the cats. However, that either means a dedicated bung for the dyno sensor, or removing one of the factory sensors. Wouldn't removing a factory sensor cause all sorts of problems with the computer?

neffster

iTrader: (2)

GREAT QUESTION! I was going to ask the same thing but since the 2004.5 G35 reflash isn't working yet, I thought I'd wait for a more appropriate time.

Does TS recommend that we unscrew the passenger side Oxygen sensor and do several runs? I've read that unscrewing the passengers side sensor will allow you 5 to 10 runs before the ECU freaks out. I've also read that the tail pipe, sniffer method, is very inaccurate. What is the suggested method?