sibble

tx for the info resolute

i just did a 800 mile trip so im pretty close to my next change, it's just the report takes a bit of time

ZLadie2000

iTrader: (12)

^^ so u have mobil 1 now? cant wait to see the results...

sibble

yup m1, gona take 3-5 weeks for results and I'll be doing a change in 1-2 weeks.

wlises

Ive been reading around but still cant really figure out what a good oil would be to put in my 07 base z with 3k miles.

white07z

do castrol full synthetic i use that 5w-30 i want to see results on it

tsabrale

iTrader: (3)

I am just waiting for my AMSOIL to come in. Then I need to change and send the sample in. So we will see the results of AMSOIL TSO 2000 0w30 in an HR with very low miles.

sibble

im happy to see that a few others will be testing their oil as well, we should get a good list of results...

I just passed 20,000 mile marker, took a pic with my phone

I'll be sending my m1 oil into blackstone next week. Look for an update in a month.

tsabrale

iTrader: (3)

Definitely can't wait to send in the results. I do need to change the oil, I just have to wait for my order to come in. I am going to stick with AMSOIL and do another test on the next oil change. Then maybe I will try something else, depending on the results.

tsabrale

iTrader: (3)

I just changed my oil. I am sending it in to Blackstone tomorrow. We will see how the results are in a couple of weeks.

sibble

changed oil sent mobil1 to blackstone
(i dunno why i just think the car felt really good during the miles i put on with mobil1)

put in 4.5qts of castrol syntec 5w-30 + .5-.9qts of Lucas oil stabilizer

I've never used any Castrol before, it looked very thin. It was almost like pouring water into the engine. Well... not quite water, but it didnt take more then 15s to pour a quart in. I added the Lucas after the 2nd qt. of Castrol. If you've never used the Lucas oil stabilizer before, it's very droopy. It's sticky doesn't even look like an oil.

Well, I think maybe the Z didn't like the Lucas...

It's hard to say what it feels like. I've never owned any Nissan before, and I've never quite driven a car like this before. I would say it feels like it's a miss, but I have my doubts about it being an electrical problem having done sparks&plugs on my old car myself and knowing what a miss feels like. It sputters, I feel it's fuel related.

Speaking of fuel, the same day I did the oil I also used some Chevron fuel cleaner. However there could be 2 other more factors...

There are almost 22,000 miles on the car and I might need to clean the air filters. I doubt this is the problem, when I said it's a sputter... it's violent. The car feels like it's cutting off and I have to hit the gas hard to wake it up, and she does

Now the last thing... What's up with the fuel filters in these cars, maintenance-free?

I had mods recently done to the car, but the problem started closer to the oil change. The exhaust was recently done to my car and I'm pretty sure it's unrelated. I had a borla catback on my fbody (adjusted open) and I drove it for 160,000miles, I know what it feels like to start it in the morning.


So yea, it could be a few things...

tsabrale

iTrader: (3)

I just sent in my report last Friday and got and e-mail with the report. Since my engine is very low miles, the only thing to note is the break in materials. Which is high lighted. Otherwise, the oil looks great. I will have to see what Resolute has to say.

According to their analysis, it represented oil with 3800 mi on it. A little more than the 3400 I had. Which was expected since I ran the car very hard during our October cruise. This also explains why the oil was so dark when I took the sample as it was pooring out of the tray. I am going to stick with the 0W30 AMSOIL for now since it's getting alot colder. I will continue to do analysis tests. Also, it looks like Blackstone is just using the the VQDE as the comparison.


And the properties looked appropriate due to the additional Silicon and Iron from the break in. In any case, seeing those results is more reason I am glad I changed my oil when I did.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Well, Castrol Syntec 5W-30 has performed well in the DE, so don't jusdge it by how "thin" or "thick" it looks or feels between your fingers. There is an old wives tale that still perpetuates to this day about feeling an oilo in your fingers to tell it's weight and composition. It isn't true. The Syntec does run a few cSt lighgter than the M1 5W-30, but there is no reason to think a thin 30 weight protects any less than a thick 30 weight, unless you're FI or racing the car.

But that Lucas Oil Stabilizer is a waste, and doing more harm than good. It's a very high-tack, low-sling formula that looks cool in a neat little demo they have which uses plastic gears to carry the oil to the top of the display case. But, it oxidizes the oil under high rpm conditions, meaning it introduces air into the oil causing it to foam up in the crankcase. And where there is air- there is no oil film to protect your metals. It also does not reverse effect very well, so the oil stays oxidized, which among poor protection, increases carbocylic acid build-up which forms sludge. That stuff is a bad call.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I responded in the Oil Analysis thread on your sample. Just to clarify, your oil sample doesn't represent an oil with 3800 miles on it. The far column to the right of your sample results is the average sample results from all the VQ's they've ever tested, and that average sample has an average mileage of 3800. What they mean is that your sample has less mileage on it than the average results they provided for you to compare it against.
Also, if you ever drain the oil from your engine and it's not dark, then don't use that oil again. There is this myth that an oil that goes dark has lost it's ability to perform it's job. The opposite is true. A good oil will collect the carbon and soot build-up in your engine, nuetralize it so that it doesn't form sludge, and then have it drain out with the oil. There are several discussions on this in the Q&A section on the first page of the oil analysis thread. If the oil comes out clean, then it left sludge and varnish to form inside your engine.

Will

sibble

Thanks, huge help. I'm going to change the oil again very soon I don't want that in my engine and I want to see if it fixes the problem.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

No worries. Here is an article that has a working example fo what I'm talking about:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
If you check the sticky I made on oil analysis, you'll see a section that covers additives already used in the oil. Anti-foamants being one of them, designed to combat this exact issue. The problem with additives that you buy in a bottle and add to the oil, like slick 50 or lucas, is that you are altering the chemical composition of the oil and essentially re-blending it without any idea as to the overall balance of the components in the oil. As a result, you might be adding to one aspect of the oil while destroying another, thereby ruining the balance of the oil to perform in all designed applications. This is why the UOA's are so helpfull, so we can see what oils have a solid blend from the factory without resorting to basement chemistry of using aftermarket additives.

Will

RacePedals

There is no way I would run 0W30 weight oil in any car, regardless of who makes it. Of course, if all you want was HP and shorter engine life then go for it. I've got personnel stories of scored cylinder walls running Mobil 1 10W30 on the track in a high reving Miata. I no longer spend large amounts of money on Synthetic oils. A waste of money. Just buy regular oil and change it every 3000 miles.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

LOL. Care to explain what you have against a 0W-30, or what makes you think it's good for hp?

Will

RacePedals

Thinner oil, less pressure to pump, less friction, more HP. However, increased wear. This stuff pours like water. If you are racing and rebuilds are a way of life, then you can get more HP with thinner oils. But that is not for me. On the track, I run nothing but 20W-50 Castrol and have yet to trash and engine. However, burnt 2 engines up running thinner weight Mobil 1. I also will never put synthetics in the transmission. Synthertics are slippery, no question. However, due to them being slippery, they remove less heat from the transmission, which is a bad thing. Remember, these are street engines, not true race engines so I want mine to last.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

That's funny because you're wrong. Both the M1 0W-30 and Amsoil TSO 0W-30 are thicker than their 5W-30 and 10W-30 counterparts. This was my question, why did you think it was thinner and therefore good for HP, when I already know both of these oils are thicker?

Besides, the TSO has shown excellent thermal and oxidative stability in the VQ, and some of the lowest wear numbers of any oils tested. If you think running a heavier weight by itself is the difference between good protection and not, then that's incorrect. Oil weight helps determine film strenght, but film strength is not solely dependant on weight. The chemistry of then oil is more complex than that, and there are several good 0W-20 and 5W-20 oils that I'd be curious to try in the VQ. There's a sticky on oil analysis and a collection of the results in the main engine/drivetrain forum. I think you might want to check it out.

Will

sibble

Well here is the Mobil 1 5W-30 analysis. Looks like everything pretty much improved over the last analysis (using Royal Purple).
Hows she lookin Resolute? Any other concerns other than the aluminum?

Mobil 1 5W-30