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2007 VQ35HR Engine Oil Analysis

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Old 02-14-2008, 03:26 PM
  #81  
tsabrale
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Default Amsoil 2000 TSO 0W30

Here is my oil analysis from Blackstone. Numbers are significantly improved. And very obvious my engine is breaking in. Looks like things are starting to level out.

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Old 02-14-2008, 04:56 PM
  #82  
itsjiggajames
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Im running 0w-40 mobile 1 full synthetic based upon Resolutes thread. Have you tried ow-40? Your car seems to wear pretty well on m1 5w-30 so probally better on 0w-40?
Old 02-14-2008, 08:00 PM
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sibble
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Originally Posted by itsjiggajames
Im running 0w-40 mobile 1 full synthetic based upon Resolutes thread. Have you tried ow-40? Your car seems to wear pretty well on m1 5w-30 so probally better on 0w-40?
yup im pretty sure 0w40 would be better then the 5w30 results...
unfortunately im not going to use anything but the castrol 0w30 i have for the next 3 oil changes to compare UOAs to get a good idea where my engine is at
i would be pretty confident putting m1 0w40 in my engine.


tsabrale: great thanks for the update, link posted to your UOA.
engine is def still breaking in, as the comments read, it will probably take a few more changes

Last edited by sibble; 02-14-2008 at 08:11 PM.
Old 02-14-2008, 09:11 PM
  #84  
tsabrale
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Definitely. We need more people with HR to post their results. So far, the Amsoil is doing great. My Oil Analysis should help people decide about changing to synthetic early. So far, everything looks great. Very promising seeing Silicon and Iron significantly drop.
Old 02-20-2008, 08:16 AM
  #85  
jmark
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Mods can we get a sticky for this please?
Old 02-28-2008, 05:31 PM
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New to forum. Lurked here and the other thread for the DE UOA's for the past week or so trying to figure out what to do on my first oil change at 3,800. Decided to return the 5w30 RP, and go with M1 0W40 European and a K&N Gold oil filter. Will post UOA when I get results from Blackstone on the factory oil. Car is a daily driver with some spirited driving in S FL. I'd be interested to see how the break in is going compared to others, especially in warmer states.

Brian
Old 02-29-2008, 02:46 PM
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sibble
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Originally Posted by bman350z
New to forum. Lurked here and the other thread for the DE UOA's for the past week or so trying to figure out what to do on my first oil change at 3,800. Decided to return the 5w30 RP, and go with M1 0W40 European and a K&N Gold oil filter. Will post UOA when I get results from Blackstone on the factory oil. Car is a daily driver with some spirited driving in S FL. I'd be interested to see how the break in is going compared to others, especially in warmer states.

Brian
Good decision returning the RP, glad to see you did your research

I will be anxiously awaiting your 0w40 UOA.

Thanks for contributing.
Old 02-29-2008, 02:50 PM
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I just found out the local autozone now sells the german castol syntec 0-30w. They call it European formula. I am going to pick some up to make sure it's the nice green stuff that does so well in our engine. Then maybe in an oil change or two try that out.
Old 02-29-2008, 03:06 PM
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sibble
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Originally Posted by tsabrale
I just found out the local autozone now sells the german castol syntec 0-30w. They call it European formula. I am going to pick some up to make sure it's the nice green stuff that does so well in our engine. Then maybe in an oil change or two try that out.
On rare occasions I'll see it stocked in AutoZone... I'm sure there are more than a few people who know that it's a good oil around me. I just can never seem to find it stocked. I ended up buying mine in cases from an online source. Plain and simple, hoard it while you can

I'm still running on the first german 0w30 change, got about 4-5k on it, almost time for a change.
Old 02-29-2008, 03:35 PM
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the european german castrol 0-30w that i get at my local autozone isnt green. problem??? i dont think so
Old 02-29-2008, 04:35 PM
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sibble
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Originally Posted by g35sedan5at
the european german castrol 0-30w that i get at my local autozone isnt green. problem??? i dont think so
it changed to green (smells like gummy bears) not too long ago i believe, i forget what it was before green...
Old 02-29-2008, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sibble
On rare occasions I'll see it stocked in AutoZone... I'm sure there are more than a few people who know that it's a good oil around me. I just can never seem to find it stocked. I ended up buying mine in cases from an online source. Plain and simple, hoard it while you can

I'm still running on the first german 0w30 change, got about 4-5k on it, almost time for a change.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I save $3 a quart with that instead of the amsoil. I love the amsoil, but I know the German Syntec is about as good. Good stuff. I am going to hoard some tomorrow.

Last edited by tsabrale; 03-03-2008 at 06:50 AM.
Old 03-02-2008, 10:01 AM
  #93  
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Sweet, I didn't know that Blackstone is located in Ft.Wayne...I guess I will be driving their to do my oil analysis for my 08'
Old 03-04-2008, 06:41 AM
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Here is a good article I dug up on another forum I frequent (not Ferrari Chat though haha): http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

With what I have seen here in the HR UOA thread, in the DE UOA thread, this article and many others, I am going to go with the German Castrol, ie. the 0w30, when I make my switch to synthetic at around 9k. That is, if I can find it in my area... otherwise, am awaiting results of the Mobil 0w40.
Old 03-04-2008, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by KManZ
Here is a good article I dug up on another forum I frequent (not Ferrari Chat though haha): http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

With what I have seen here in the HR UOA thread, in the DE UOA thread, this article and many others, I am going to go with the German Castrol, ie. the 0w30, when I make my switch to synthetic at around 9k. That is, if I can find it in my area... otherwise, am awaiting results of the Mobil 0w40.
For our engines, you can't go wrong with Mobile 0W-40, German Castrol Syntec 0W-30, and the Amsoil 0W-30. So far for the DEs, AMSOIL has the best wear numbers. But for HRs, this will probably be the case, but for me, the results are off because my engine is still breaking in. I still have another case or two of Amsoil to use, but like I said earlier, I went ahead and hoarded a bunch of of the German Castrol as well since they have it. I think I will however stick with AMSOIL until my UOA results have stabilized and show my engine is past the breaking in stage. Right now, I am at around 7600 mi point.

-Joe
Old 03-04-2008, 07:26 PM
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good article. it confirmed what i was thinking. time to change my oil to 0-30w
Old 03-07-2008, 03:45 PM
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Does anybody know how much of an effect an oil filter (cheap vs high quality) would effect the UOA's? I mean could a high quality oil filter hide how bad a low quality oil was performing? Also was considering a magnetic oil plug or are these just gimmicks?
Old 03-07-2008, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bman350z
Does anybody know how much of an effect an oil filter (cheap vs high quality) would effect the UOA's? I mean could a high quality oil filter hide how bad a low quality oil was performing? Also was considering a magnetic oil plug or are these just gimmicks?
No, an oil filter won't hide a poor oil from showing high wear in a UOA. Used Oil Analysis only measures particles less than 5 microns, and oil filters are measured by their ability to trap anything as small as 10 microns. Even then, if you see the performance measures on multiple pass filtering tests, 10 micron filtering is tough for most filters, much less 5 micron particles and smaller.

A good oil filter should keep larger particles out of the oil stream, and prevent excess wear from particle streaking. Particle streaking occurs when a fairly large particle gets caught in a bearing, for example, and prevents proper lubrication of that section of the bearing and scores the bearing surface. By preventing this, a good filter might have lower UOA wear metals than the same oil used with a cheap filter might show. This is not because the filter is altering the oil's performance measures, but because it is actually reducing the wear caused by larger particles.

Of course, which filter to use is a subject of debate with less info than the subject of oil, and just as heated. I personally don't like filters with extra fine filtering like the PureOne because the media is so dense that the oil would bypass it under pressure. If more oil is bypassing the filter through the bypass valve, then less oil is actually being filtered, and the super high filtering element is useless to me. Good flow vs good filtration is a balance, and I tend to prefer filters with synthetic cores like the M1 and K&N filters made by Champion labs, the Wix premium filters sold under the NAPA Gold label, and the Donaldson made Amsoil filters.

Will
Old 03-07-2008, 05:23 PM
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sibble
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Originally Posted by bman350z
Does anybody know how much of an effect an oil filter (cheap vs high quality) would effect the UOA's? I mean could a high quality oil filter hide how bad a low quality oil was performing? Also was considering a magnetic oil plug or are these just gimmicks?
I asked my buddy about the magnetic plug a while ago, he said he could see some kind of deposits on it after every change. I'm gona say no it's not a gimmick, but as to how effective they are, not quite sure.

I'd buy one.
Old 03-07-2008, 08:14 PM
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So changing to synthetic oil on first oil change is fine? Mobil 5w-30


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