2007 VQ35HR Engine Oil Analysis
#101
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Originally Posted by Boba
So changing to synthetic oil on first oil change is fine? Mobil 5w-30
#102
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I changed at the first oil change to 0w30 Amsoil TSO 2000. No problems, engine is doing great. Read up and the articles posted in this thread and then decide for yourself.
-Joe
-Joe
#103
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Originally Posted by itsjiggajames
I'm about to put mobile1 0W-40 in my car... I have 3k miles on motul 8100 5w-30 that im dying to get out, i'll order a blackstone test for the 0w-40.. didn't seem to the need to order one for the 8100 because that oil seems like crap..
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Oh and have you guys seen this oil comparison test? http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
It's probably been posted before, but I didn't really pay attention to oil before. Some interesting info. The Motul that I just put in the car, performed like crap.
This test might not be compatible for our cars however as the royal purple performed great, but doesn't seem to do as well for the VQ.
It's probably been posted before, but I didn't really pay attention to oil before. Some interesting info. The Motul that I just put in the car, performed like crap.
This test might not be compatible for our cars however as the royal purple performed great, but doesn't seem to do as well for the VQ.
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Originally Posted by Sensi09
What did you not like about the motul 8100. I'm aware that it underperformed with the DE, but I didn't notice any difference when driving the car. I switched to Motul 8100 for my first oil change.
1) Westco nissans 49.95 oil change or 39.99.. forget.
2) Motul brand.
Throw those two out the window. Use westcos mobil 1 5w-30 if you have to. People have used that oil on 07s and showed decent results, but for best results, there are different oils out there. M1-0w-40 is a good choice for mobile oils..
I am now using 0w-40. One thing I did notice in car is the oil pressure. The motul always lost a lot of oil pressure as miles got higher. My 0w-40 does not budge.. (i'm talking about warmed up pressure.) Although this isn't always the case, lower oil pressure I think correlates to the oil degrading and not protecting the motor as much over time.
#107
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Originally Posted by itsjiggajames
I never noticed a difference switching from dino oil to synthetic to different synthetics. That's why there are UOAs..
Originally Posted by itsjiggajames
and since they underperformed, why use it? I used motul 8100 for two reasons, and i'm willing to bet you had the same reasons.
1) Westco nissans 49.95 oil change or 39.99.. forget.
2) Motul brand.
Throw those two out the window. Use westcos mobil 1 5w-30 if you have to. People have used that oil on 07s and showed decent results, but for best results, there are different oils out there. M1-0w-40 is a good choice for mobile oils..
I am now using 0w-40. One thing I did notice in car is the oil pressure. The motul always lost a lot of oil pressure as miles got higher. My 0w-40 does not budge.. (i'm talking about warmed up pressure.) Although this isn't always the case, lower oil pressure I think correlates to the oil degrading and not protecting the motor as much over time.
1) Westco nissans 49.95 oil change or 39.99.. forget.
2) Motul brand.
Throw those two out the window. Use westcos mobil 1 5w-30 if you have to. People have used that oil on 07s and showed decent results, but for best results, there are different oils out there. M1-0w-40 is a good choice for mobile oils..
I am now using 0w-40. One thing I did notice in car is the oil pressure. The motul always lost a lot of oil pressure as miles got higher. My 0w-40 does not budge.. (i'm talking about warmed up pressure.) Although this isn't always the case, lower oil pressure I think correlates to the oil degrading and not protecting the motor as much over time.
Will
#108
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Originally Posted by Sensi09
Oh and have you guys seen this oil comparison test? http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
It's probably been posted before, but I didn't really pay attention to oil before. Some interesting info. The Motul that I just put in the car, performed like crap.
This test might not be compatible for our cars however as the royal purple performed great, but doesn't seem to do as well for the VQ.
It's probably been posted before, but I didn't really pay attention to oil before. Some interesting info. The Motul that I just put in the car, performed like crap.
This test might not be compatible for our cars however as the royal purple performed great, but doesn't seem to do as well for the VQ.
Will
#109
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Originally Posted by itsjiggajames
I never noticed a difference switching from dino oil to synthetic to different synthetics. That's why there are UOAs.. and since they underperformed, why use it? I used motul 8100 for two reasons, and i'm willing to bet you had the same reasons.
1) Westco nissans 49.95 oil change or 39.99.. forget.
2) Motul brand.
Throw those two out the window. Use westcos mobil 1 5w-30 if you have to. People have used that oil on 07s and showed decent results, but for best results, there are different oils out there. M1-0w-40 is a good choice for mobile oils..
I am now using 0w-40. One thing I did notice in car is the oil pressure. The motul always lost a lot of oil pressure as miles got higher. My 0w-40 does not budge.. (i'm talking about warmed up pressure.) Although this isn't always the case, lower oil pressure I think correlates to the oil degrading and not protecting the motor as much over time.
1) Westco nissans 49.95 oil change or 39.99.. forget.
2) Motul brand.
Throw those two out the window. Use westcos mobil 1 5w-30 if you have to. People have used that oil on 07s and showed decent results, but for best results, there are different oils out there. M1-0w-40 is a good choice for mobile oils..
I am now using 0w-40. One thing I did notice in car is the oil pressure. The motul always lost a lot of oil pressure as miles got higher. My 0w-40 does not budge.. (i'm talking about warmed up pressure.) Although this isn't always the case, lower oil pressure I think correlates to the oil degrading and not protecting the motor as much over time.
I'm aware that proper testing is needed and differences between oils would not likely be noticed, but from your posts it seemed that you were having problems with the Motul, so I thought I'd ask.
Last edited by Sensi09; 03-12-2008 at 04:15 PM.
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Originally Posted by Sensi09
Yup, westco. They advertise 49.95 for either Motul or Mobil synthetic, but for some reason, I pay $43 with tax. I used the 8100 for about 20K miles on my last Z so I thought I try it out for my first oil change in this car. However, I'll probably get the Mobil next time. Where do you get the 0W-40 from, do you change it out yourself?
I'm aware that proper testing is needed and differences between oils would not likely be noticed, but from your posts it seemed that you were having problems with the Motul, so I thought I'd ask.
I'm aware that proper testing is needed and differences between oils would not likely be noticed, but from your posts it seemed that you were having problems with the Motul, so I thought I'd ask.
The mobile 1 5w-30 deal at westco isn't bad though. The UOA show pretty good results, although I'm not really satisfied with the Piece of **** oem cardboard filter.. m1 synthetic filters are nice, but very expensive.
I run 5000mile intervals right now since my car is new and technically should still have break in wear materials, but after I pass 15k i'll probally extend my oil change intervals to 6k-6.5k.
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Originally Posted by Resolute
Exactly. Well put. There is not much to notice between oils without testing them, when you consider a good oil might only have 2-3ppm wear of lead and another oil might run 6-7ppm of lead. This wear is parts per million and for particles less than 5 micrometers in size, so it's not earth-shattering. However, one oil still has twice the wear, so why use it if there is a better option? That's one of the benefits to having a UOA done, to see if you're really getting your money's worth. Motul doesn't look to be worth the money. It won't kill your engine or anything, but why pay the premium if there is something better for less money?
There is something to say about your oil pressure reading. Oil pressure is a function of viscosity, and the M1 0W-40 is a fairly stable oil up to 7500 miles, in terms of shear. I don't doubt that it would maintain its grade better than 5W-30, since I also have a SAE technical paper that shows this to be true. The paper determined shear stability for several oils, and the M1 0W-30 and 0W-40 performed the best, which isn't a surprise if you understand that the 0W-xx oils have more expensive chemistry behind them than the 5W and 10W-30 oils.
Will
There is something to say about your oil pressure reading. Oil pressure is a function of viscosity, and the M1 0W-40 is a fairly stable oil up to 7500 miles, in terms of shear. I don't doubt that it would maintain its grade better than 5W-30, since I also have a SAE technical paper that shows this to be true. The paper determined shear stability for several oils, and the M1 0W-30 and 0W-40 performed the best, which isn't a surprise if you understand that the 0W-xx oils have more expensive chemistry behind them than the 5W and 10W-30 oils.
Will
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After 318,000 miles [90Q45] and 100+ oil changes I gave up on oil analysis 13 years ago. Current oil Mobil 1 0w40 but it has had assorted 10/5w30/40 and 15/10w50/40 [summer] along the way. Valvoline and Mobil 1 exclusively.
95% of filters were Nissan oem.
Just changing every 90 days [or < 4k] does the trick after all what's 150 gallons of oil in 18 years compared to 17,300 gallons of gasoline.
95% of filters were Nissan oem.
Just changing every 90 days [or < 4k] does the trick after all what's 150 gallons of oil in 18 years compared to 17,300 gallons of gasoline.
Last edited by Q45tech; 03-17-2008 at 08:27 AM.
#115
If it has the SAE symbol on it, it's O.K.--regardless of the brand. Keeping a
punctual change schedule, with a high quality filter is essential to keep all
that friction/carbon formation/contaminants under check, guys. MOBIL1 oil &
filters have never let me down. Second choice: Pennzoil Platinum. But I really
don't worry; they're all approved by the SAE. Been using M1 since the early
'90s, no problemo.
punctual change schedule, with a high quality filter is essential to keep all
that friction/carbon formation/contaminants under check, guys. MOBIL1 oil &
filters have never let me down. Second choice: Pennzoil Platinum. But I really
don't worry; they're all approved by the SAE. Been using M1 since the early
'90s, no problemo.
#117
@tsabrale:
They´ve written in their last report, that your engine "matures past-break-in"... so in that case 7,000 miles are necessary to completely break-in the HR?
What about the oil consumption of your car? I expect the consumption decreases during break-in until it finally stops. Could you tell me s.th. about your engine´s values of oil consumption. thx
Mike
They´ve written in their last report, that your engine "matures past-break-in"... so in that case 7,000 miles are necessary to completely break-in the HR?
What about the oil consumption of your car? I expect the consumption decreases during break-in until it finally stops. Could you tell me s.th. about your engine´s values of oil consumption. thx
Mike
#118
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Originally Posted by Recreator
@tsabrale:
They´ve written in their last report, that your engine "matures past-break-in"... so in that case 7,000 miles are necessary to completely break-in the HR?
What about the oil consumption of your car? I expect the consumption decreases during break-in until it finally stops. Could you tell me s.th. about your engine´s values of oil consumption. thx
Mike
They´ve written in their last report, that your engine "matures past-break-in"... so in that case 7,000 miles are necessary to completely break-in the HR?
What about the oil consumption of your car? I expect the consumption decreases during break-in until it finally stops. Could you tell me s.th. about your engine´s values of oil consumption. thx
Mike
Actually, it will probably take more than 7k for a full break in. More like 10+ k I imagine. I put this oil in right at 1250, the point Nissan states is the minimum time for break in. If you read both reports, you will notice a drastic drop in break in materials. This means 1-3 more oil changes, the car will finally truly be broken in. (Note: I am using 100% Synthetic Oil an my engine is breakin in with no problems.)
As far as oil consumption, I don't have any issues. The AMSOIL has been a great oil for this car. I may change it up toe Castol 0-30 German oil since it's a little thicker and thus handle duties of Track Days and AutoX better.
#119
KmanZ, YOU ARE A LIFE-SAVER--for engines, that is! That Doctor's lessons are i-n-c-r-e-d-i-b-l-e!!! I learned A LOT, & found out in the process that I've
been on the right track all along. Back in the eighties, I went from straight 40 dino' oil, to straight 30 dino'; in the nineties, I went from straight dino 30, to synth' 10W-30. Next--and thanks to YOU, dude--I'll be getting 5W-30 synth' oil--per the manual!!! You & that M.D. make my day! THANK YOU!!!
____________________________________________________________ _____
'04 Touring Coupe/13k!/$22k!!!--NO feathering issues at 14k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
been on the right track all along. Back in the eighties, I went from straight 40 dino' oil, to straight 30 dino'; in the nineties, I went from straight dino 30, to synth' 10W-30. Next--and thanks to YOU, dude--I'll be getting 5W-30 synth' oil--per the manual!!! You & that M.D. make my day! THANK YOU!!!
____________________________________________________________ _____
'04 Touring Coupe/13k!/$22k!!!--NO feathering issues at 14k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by j.arnaldo; 04-29-2008 at 10:29 AM.
#120
Sibble: forget about "Lucas" stabilizer! Go to Kmanz's post on last page, & check out that Doctor's lifelong study on engine oils!!! You'll be SURPRISED, to
say the least! Good luck!
say the least! Good luck!