2007 VQ35HR Engine Oil Analysis
#121
Banned
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 2,637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by j.arnaldo
KmanZ, YOU ARE A LIFE-SAVER--for engines, that is! That Doctor's lessons are i-n-c-r-e-d-i-b-l-e!!! I learned A LOT, & found out in the process that I've
been on the right track all along. Back in the eighties, I went from straight 40 dino' oil, to straight 30 dino'; in the nineties, I went from straight dino 30, to synth' 10W-30. Next--and thanks to YOU, dude--I'll be getting 5W-30 synth' oil--per the manual!!! You & that M.D. make my day! THANK YOU!!!
____________________________________________________________ _____
been on the right track all along. Back in the eighties, I went from straight 40 dino' oil, to straight 30 dino'; in the nineties, I went from straight dino 30, to synth' 10W-30. Next--and thanks to YOU, dude--I'll be getting 5W-30 synth' oil--per the manual!!! You & that M.D. make my day! THANK YOU!!!
____________________________________________________________ _____
#122
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: IE - LA- Cali
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by KManZ
I am happy that I could help out! That article is great, as it has finally given me a definitive answer to the oil search
#123
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Castrol German 0W30 Report (1)
This is the first of 3 oil reports for the castrol 0w30.
I stretched the miles out a bit with this one, was just bad timing. 8,174 miles on the oil, and I had 39,774 on the car when I drained it.
I was surprised to see how much the lead jumped, but I'm also anxious to see my next oil analysis. Aluminum is what it is most likely because of the extended oil run. I'm pretty happy with the rest of the wear numbers.
Not quite sure what to think about the viscosity though...
Overall I'm pretty happy and I'm going to do a change at 6,500 next time.
I stretched the miles out a bit with this one, was just bad timing. 8,174 miles on the oil, and I had 39,774 on the car when I drained it.
I was surprised to see how much the lead jumped, but I'm also anxious to see my next oil analysis. Aluminum is what it is most likely because of the extended oil run. I'm pretty happy with the rest of the wear numbers.
Not quite sure what to think about the viscosity though...
Overall I'm pretty happy and I'm going to do a change at 6,500 next time.
#124
New Member
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by itsjiggajames
That article makes me want to change from my ow-40 mobile 1 to castrol ow-30.. sort of makes 40weight look bad.
Generally, run the lightest weight oil that gives good wear results. There is no need for a 40 weight oil in most applications. I recommend the 0W-40 as the best oil Mobil makes in terms of wear and shear stability for long oil changes. I don't recommend it simply because of it's viscosity.
There is something to be said about the higher film strength that a higher viscosity oil possesses, but most driver's needs don't dictate it's use. Racing would be a prime example, though.
If you want to try a good lightweight 30 grade oil, both Amsoil's SSO and Sheaffer's 5W-30 have excellent UOA results to back them up. GTX 5W-30 is a good conventional. PP 10W-30 is another good syn alternative with excellent UOA results. Any 30 weight oil that meets ILSAC GF-4 and ACEA A5 specs (Castrol 0W-30 and Amsoil's TSO don't) will be a good energy conserving oil with a relatively thin 30 weight viscosity, but only the ones I mentioned have gone through multiple UOA's from the VQ and had consistently good wear and stability results.
Myself, I am going to get a UOA of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 next. I have a slight bias for Shell products, and am surprised no one else has had a UOA with this oil.
Originally Posted by sibble
This is the first of 3 oil reports for the castrol 0w30.
I stretched the miles out a bit with this one, was just bad timing. 8,174 miles on the oil, and I had 39,774 on the car when I drained it.
I was surprised to see how much the lead jumped, but I'm also anxious to see my next oil analysis. Aluminum is what it is most likely because of the extended oil run. I'm pretty happy with the rest of the wear numbers.
Not quite sure what to think about the viscosity though...
Overall I'm pretty happy and I'm going to do a change at 6,500 next time.
I stretched the miles out a bit with this one, was just bad timing. 8,174 miles on the oil, and I had 39,774 on the car when I drained it.
I was surprised to see how much the lead jumped, but I'm also anxious to see my next oil analysis. Aluminum is what it is most likely because of the extended oil run. I'm pretty happy with the rest of the wear numbers.
Not quite sure what to think about the viscosity though...
Overall I'm pretty happy and I'm going to do a change at 6,500 next time.
What oil filter were you using?
If I were you, I would keep the oil changes to around 7500 miles, max, with this oil. The VQ is hard on oils, and while the oil's physical properties are still decent (thanks to a lack of fuel dilution in your engine, the rev-ups could only hope to be this nice) the GC will break down and I would not be surprised by a lack of protection offered the bearings under load after a long oil change interval. When the oil starts to shear, the wear will increase exponentially. Dial the oil change interval back a bit, and try another UOA and see how it goes.
Will
#125
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: IE - LA- Cali
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Resolute
I'm guessing the article in question is AE Hass' writings? I agree with most of what he says, or at least will say that most of what he's written is cited in other sources.
Generally, run the lightest weight oil that gives good wear results. There is no need for a 40 weight oil in most applications. I recommend the 0W-40 as the best oil Mobil makes in terms of wear and shear stability for long oil changes. I don't recommend it simply because of it's viscosity.
There is something to be said about the higher film strength that a higher viscosity oil possesses, but most driver's needs don't dictate it's use. Racing would be a prime example, though.
If you want to try a good lightweight 30 grade oil, both Amsoil's SSO and Sheaffer's 5W-30 have excellent UOA results to back them up. GTX 5W-30 is a good conventional. PP 10W-30 is another good syn alternative with excellent UOA results. Any 30 weight oil that meets ILSAC GF-4 and ACEA A5 specs (Castrol 0W-30 and Amsoil's TSO don't) will be a good energy conserving oil with a relatively thin 30 weight viscosity, but only the ones I mentioned have gone through multiple UOA's from the VQ and had consistently good wear and stability results.
Myself, I am going to get a UOA of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 next. I have a slight bias for Shell products, and am surprised no one else has had a UOA with this oil.
For what it's worth, I don't buy Blackstone's cookie-cutter response. The Pb is from your bearing wear, and maybe wrist pin wear as well. If you run the GC 0W-30 to another 8k plus miles, your Pb will be similar. All in all, your engine wear looks good and this oil held up well. It's in grade and TBN is still high. However, your silicon is low and I doubt a particle streak.
What oil filter were you using?
If I were you, I would keep the oil changes to around 7500 miles, max, with this oil. The VQ is hard on oils, and while the oil's physical properties are still decent (thanks to a lack of fuel dilution in your engine, the rev-ups could only hope to be this nice) the GC will break down and I would not be surprised by a lack of protection offered the bearings under load after a long oil change interval. When the oil starts to shear, the wear will increase exponentially. Dial the oil change interval back a bit, and try another UOA and see how it goes.
Will
Generally, run the lightest weight oil that gives good wear results. There is no need for a 40 weight oil in most applications. I recommend the 0W-40 as the best oil Mobil makes in terms of wear and shear stability for long oil changes. I don't recommend it simply because of it's viscosity.
There is something to be said about the higher film strength that a higher viscosity oil possesses, but most driver's needs don't dictate it's use. Racing would be a prime example, though.
If you want to try a good lightweight 30 grade oil, both Amsoil's SSO and Sheaffer's 5W-30 have excellent UOA results to back them up. GTX 5W-30 is a good conventional. PP 10W-30 is another good syn alternative with excellent UOA results. Any 30 weight oil that meets ILSAC GF-4 and ACEA A5 specs (Castrol 0W-30 and Amsoil's TSO don't) will be a good energy conserving oil with a relatively thin 30 weight viscosity, but only the ones I mentioned have gone through multiple UOA's from the VQ and had consistently good wear and stability results.
Myself, I am going to get a UOA of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 next. I have a slight bias for Shell products, and am surprised no one else has had a UOA with this oil.
For what it's worth, I don't buy Blackstone's cookie-cutter response. The Pb is from your bearing wear, and maybe wrist pin wear as well. If you run the GC 0W-30 to another 8k plus miles, your Pb will be similar. All in all, your engine wear looks good and this oil held up well. It's in grade and TBN is still high. However, your silicon is low and I doubt a particle streak.
What oil filter were you using?
If I were you, I would keep the oil changes to around 7500 miles, max, with this oil. The VQ is hard on oils, and while the oil's physical properties are still decent (thanks to a lack of fuel dilution in your engine, the rev-ups could only hope to be this nice) the GC will break down and I would not be surprised by a lack of protection offered the bearings under load after a long oil change interval. When the oil starts to shear, the wear will increase exponentially. Dial the oil change interval back a bit, and try another UOA and see how it goes.
Will
#126
New Member
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by itsjiggajames
Well i'd run GTX, but I do extended drain intervals and would rather stick with synthetics. I run between 5-6k, and do a few wot runs per week. I was under the assumption that 0w-40 was a good oil, but in terms of weight, I want to try 30 weights next. I can't really find the Syntec 0W-30, so i've been using M1's 0w-40.. Would you recommend my HR use a lighter oil like Pennzoil Plat 5w-30 because the redline is higher and the compression than DEs?
Mobil1 0W-40 is a good oil, I'm not sure why you might think otherwise. The wear results are good, and the oil is shear stable for extended drains. Of all the M1 products, it's one of the best.
If a 40 weight bothers you now, and you want a 30 weight instead, then I recommended some 30 weight oils that all have good UOA results. Any of them would be a good choice.
If you want to really split hairs over the recommended oils, and go beyond their average UOA results, then get UOA's done from your own engine under your own driving style and see how they fair. Unless you're really an odd driver who only does two mile commutes, then the trends will be similar to the average results collected so far, but you'll have the peace of mind of knowing exactly how your oil choice compares under your own driving habits.
Will
edit: btw, the difference in viscosity between the Syntec 0W-30 and M1 0W-40 is very small. The GC is a very thick 30 weight, and the M1 is a very thin 40 weight. You wouldn't really be making a huge difference switching between the two. If you want to use a thin 30 weight oil, the ones I recommended are a good place to start.
Last edited by Resolute; 04-30-2008 at 09:07 PM.
#127
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: IE - LA- Cali
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Resolute
I would suggest you use what you like and get a UOA if you are truly concerned about finding what oil is working the best for you.
Mobil1 0W-40 is a good oil, I'm not sure why you might think otherwise. The wear results are good, and the oil is shear stable for extended drains. Of all the M1 products, it's one of the best.
If a 40 weight bothers you now, and you want a 30 weight instead, then I recommended some 30 weight oils that all have good UOA results. Any of them would be a good choice.
If you want to really split hairs over the recommended oils, and go beyond their average UOA results, then get UOA's done from your own engine under your own driving style and see how they fair. Unless you're really an odd driver who only does two mile commutes, then the trends will be similar to the average results collected so far, but you'll have the peace of mind of knowing exactly how your oil choice compares under your own driving habits.
Will
edit: btw, the difference in viscosity between the Syntec 0W-30 and M1 0W-40 is very small. The GC is a very thick 30 weight, and the M1 is a very thin 40 weight. You wouldn't really be making a huge difference switching between the two. If you want to use a thin 30 weight oil, the ones I recommended are a good place to start.
Mobil1 0W-40 is a good oil, I'm not sure why you might think otherwise. The wear results are good, and the oil is shear stable for extended drains. Of all the M1 products, it's one of the best.
If a 40 weight bothers you now, and you want a 30 weight instead, then I recommended some 30 weight oils that all have good UOA results. Any of them would be a good choice.
If you want to really split hairs over the recommended oils, and go beyond their average UOA results, then get UOA's done from your own engine under your own driving style and see how they fair. Unless you're really an odd driver who only does two mile commutes, then the trends will be similar to the average results collected so far, but you'll have the peace of mind of knowing exactly how your oil choice compares under your own driving habits.
Will
edit: btw, the difference in viscosity between the Syntec 0W-30 and M1 0W-40 is very small. The GC is a very thick 30 weight, and the M1 is a very thin 40 weight. You wouldn't really be making a huge difference switching between the two. If you want to use a thin 30 weight oil, the ones I recommended are a good place to start.
#128
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Resolute
For what it's worth, I don't buy Blackstone's cookie-cutter response. The Pb is from your bearing wear, and maybe wrist pin wear as well. If you run the GC 0W-30 to another 8k plus miles, your Pb will be similar. All in all, your engine wear looks good and this oil held up well. It's in grade and TBN is still high. However, your silicon is low and I doubt a particle streak.
What oil filter were you using?
If I were you, I would keep the oil changes to around 7500 miles, max, with this oil. The VQ is hard on oils, and while the oil's physical properties are still decent (thanks to a lack of fuel dilution in your engine, the rev-ups could only hope to be this nice) the GC will break down and I would not be surprised by a lack of protection offered the bearings under load after a long oil change interval. When the oil starts to shear, the wear will increase exponentially. Dial the oil change interval back a bit, and try another UOA and see how it goes.
Will
What oil filter were you using?
If I were you, I would keep the oil changes to around 7500 miles, max, with this oil. The VQ is hard on oils, and while the oil's physical properties are still decent (thanks to a lack of fuel dilution in your engine, the rev-ups could only hope to be this nice) the GC will break down and I would not be surprised by a lack of protection offered the bearings under load after a long oil change interval. When the oil starts to shear, the wear will increase exponentially. Dial the oil change interval back a bit, and try another UOA and see how it goes.
Will
#129
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: IE - LA- Cali
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sibble
Thanks for the insight and suggestion, I'll try doing a change at around 7k this time. I'm using OEM Nissan oil filter, but I'm open to suggestions on other options there (I'm tired of driving to the dealership.)
#136
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First Oil Change
Finally changed my oil for the first time and I must say that it was a lot of fun getting the factory filter off by hand. Boy, that thing was on tight.
Anyway, I'm posting my first oil analysis and would like any feedback that you guys might have. Specifically, I'm wondering if my results are inline with others who have followed Nissan's recommendations during the 1,200 mile break-in period. I bought my car with 150 miles on it and want to be sure that no one caned my Nismo before I got it. I was told by the dealer that the sales manager was the one who put most of the miles on this car when he took it to a company-sponsored golf outing. Yes, likely story and that's why I did the analysis.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Anyway, I'm posting my first oil analysis and would like any feedback that you guys might have. Specifically, I'm wondering if my results are inline with others who have followed Nissan's recommendations during the 1,200 mile break-in period. I bought my car with 150 miles on it and want to be sure that no one caned my Nismo before I got it. I was told by the dealer that the sales manager was the one who put most of the miles on this car when he took it to a company-sponsored golf outing. Yes, likely story and that's why I did the analysis.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Last edited by brad568; 05-15-2008 at 02:18 PM.
#137
New Member
iTrader: (2)
Blackstone's techs crack me up. "You should look as good next time." LOL. If your next sample is anywhere near this bad looking, your engine is in a world o hurt.
This is why I changed my oil after 500 miles. Break-in sucks. It looks higher than I would expect, and higher than some other first change oil analysis, but nothing to worry about right now. The copper is from anti-seize and some gasket leachate, and along with the silicon it means you have RTV and other sealant & assembly lube materials in your oil. It's normal.
Run your next oil for 3k miles, and see how it does. The next UOA will say a lot more than this one, and give an idea about how well the engine is breaking in for you.
Will
another reason I change the factory oil out after 500 miles, your oil sample shows the factory Esso 30 grade oil, is now a thin 20 weight oil. That stuff really doesn't hold up well to the contamination from break-in, and shears fast.
This is why I changed my oil after 500 miles. Break-in sucks. It looks higher than I would expect, and higher than some other first change oil analysis, but nothing to worry about right now. The copper is from anti-seize and some gasket leachate, and along with the silicon it means you have RTV and other sealant & assembly lube materials in your oil. It's normal.
Run your next oil for 3k miles, and see how it does. The next UOA will say a lot more than this one, and give an idea about how well the engine is breaking in for you.
Will
another reason I change the factory oil out after 500 miles, your oil sample shows the factory Esso 30 grade oil, is now a thin 20 weight oil. That stuff really doesn't hold up well to the contamination from break-in, and shears fast.
Last edited by Resolute; 05-15-2008 at 02:57 PM.
#138
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Resolute
Blackstone's techs crack me up. "You should look as good next time." LOL. If your next sample is anywhere near this bad looking, your engine is in a world o hurt.
This is why I changed my oil after 500 miles. Break-in sucks. It looks higher than I would expect, and higher than some other first change oil analysis, but nothing to worry about right now. The copper is from anti-seize and some gasket leachate, and along with the silicon it means you have RTV and other sealant & assembly lube materials in your oil. It's normal.
Run your next oil for 3k miles, and see how it does. The next UOA will say a lot more than this one, and give an idea about how well the engine is breaking in for you.
Will
another reason I change the factory oil out after 500 miles, your oil sample shows the factory Esso 30 grade oil, is now a thin 20 weight oil. That stuff really doesn't hold up well to the contamination from break-in, and shears fast.
This is why I changed my oil after 500 miles. Break-in sucks. It looks higher than I would expect, and higher than some other first change oil analysis, but nothing to worry about right now. The copper is from anti-seize and some gasket leachate, and along with the silicon it means you have RTV and other sealant & assembly lube materials in your oil. It's normal.
Run your next oil for 3k miles, and see how it does. The next UOA will say a lot more than this one, and give an idea about how well the engine is breaking in for you.
Will
another reason I change the factory oil out after 500 miles, your oil sample shows the factory Esso 30 grade oil, is now a thin 20 weight oil. That stuff really doesn't hold up well to the contamination from break-in, and shears fast.
I'm now running Castrol GTX and will be changing to a synth at about 7,000 miles. Hopefully my next samples are much cleaner.
Brad
#140
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jmark
Brad,
I am going with Mobil 1 oil filters and Castrol GTX 5-30 in both my Nismo Z & my son's Xterra.
I am going with Mobil 1 oil filters and Castrol GTX 5-30 in both my Nismo Z & my son's Xterra.
How long are you going to run the mineral oil before switching to synth, if at all? I'm pretty sure that I'm going to run Castrol Syntec 0-30 European formula when I finally make the leap.
Brad