This is one topic where no one has the definitive "yes" or "no" answer. Research the information here and on the internet, and make your own informed decisions.

 

I changed at the first oil change to 0w30 Amsoil TSO 2000. No problems, engine is doing great. Read up and the articles posted in this thread and then decide for yourself.

-Joe

 

What did you not like about the motul 8100. I'm aware that it underperformed with the DE, but I didn't notice any difference when driving the car. I switched to Motul 8100 for my first oil change.

 

Just to make sure, if Motul 8100 and Mobil1 were the same price, you guys would choose the Mobil 1?

 

Oh and have you guys seen this oil comparison test? http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

It's probably been posted before, but I didn't really pay attention to oil before. Some interesting info. The Motul that I just put in the car, performed like crap.

This test might not be compatible for our cars however as the royal purple performed great, but doesn't seem to do as well for the VQ.

 

I never noticed a difference switching from dino oil to synthetic to different synthetics. That's why there are UOAs.. and since they underperformed, why use it? I used motul 8100 for two reasons, and i'm willing to bet you had the same reasons.
1) Westco nissans 49.95 oil change or 39.99.. forget.
2) Motul brand.

Throw those two out the window. Use westcos mobil 1 5w-30 if you have to. People have used that oil on 07s and showed decent results, but for best results, there are different oils out there. M1-0w-40 is a good choice for mobile oils..
I am now using 0w-40. One thing I did notice in car is the oil pressure. The motul always lost a lot of oil pressure as miles got higher. My 0w-40 does not budge.. (i'm talking about warmed up pressure.) Although this isn't always the case, lower oil pressure I think correlates to the oil degrading and not protecting the motor as much over time.

 

Exactly. Well put. There is not much to notice between oils without testing them, when you consider a good oil might only have 2-3ppm wear of lead and another oil might run 6-7ppm of lead. This wear is parts per million and for particles less than 5 micrometers in size, so it's not earth-shattering. However, one oil still has twice the wear, so why use it if there is a better option? That's one of the benefits to having a UOA done, to see if you're really getting your money's worth. Motul doesn't look to be worth the money. It won't kill your engine or anything, but why pay the premium if there is something better for less money?

There is something to say about your oil pressure reading. Oil pressure is a function of viscosity, and the M1 0W-40 is a fairly stable oil up to 7500 miles, in terms of shear. I don't doubt that it would maintain its grade better than 5W-30, since I also have a SAE technical paper that shows this to be true. The paper determined shear stability for several oils, and the M1 0W-30 and 0W-40 performed the best, which isn't a surprise if you understand that the 0W-xx oils have more expensive chemistry behind them than the 5W and 10W-30 oils.

Will

 

I didn't download the whole thing to look at it, but is that the ages old Timken test done by Street Commodores in Australia? If so, then it's crap, and has been dissected in the DE oil analysis thread.

Will

 

Yup, westco. They advertise 49.95 for either Motul or Mobil synthetic, but for some reason, I pay $43 with tax. I used the 8100 for about 20K miles on my last Z so I thought I try it out for my first oil change in this car. However, I'll probably get the Mobil next time. Where do you get the 0W-40 from, do you change it out yourself?

I'm aware that proper testing is needed and differences between oils would not likely be noticed, but from your posts it seemed that you were having problems with the Motul, so I thought I'd ask.

 

I buy the oil from pepboys or autozone, but it sincerely rapes my pockets.. I get the M1 ow-40 for 6dollars a quart, and the filter for 11bucks I think. Comes out to roughly 45dollars.. just for parts. Another 20 for an oil change if i don't do it myself.

The mobile 1 5w-30 deal at westco isn't bad though. The UOA show pretty good results, although I'm not really satisfied with the Piece of **** oem cardboard filter.. m1 synthetic filters are nice, but very expensive.
I run 5000mile intervals right now since my car is new and technically should still have break in wear materials, but after I pass 15k i'll probally extend my oil change intervals to 6k-6.5k.

 

Once again I thank you for your UOA thread, extremely well put and thorough. So much information even though my car is a HR. Without that i'd still be using motul because the common perception is that motul is God's gift to motor lubricants. M1-0W-40's oil pressure at warm up is a stable 15psi +- 1psi throughout the entire 5k miles.. impressive. Motuls was around 20psi, and dropped to nearly 10psi at the end of a 4k run. I swapped it out after reading your UOA thread.

 

After 318,000 miles [90Q45] and 100+ oil changes I gave up on oil analysis 13 years ago. Current oil Mobil 1 0w40 but it has had assorted 10/5w30/40 and 15/10w50/40 [summer] along the way. Valvoline and Mobil 1 exclusively.
95% of filters were Nissan oem.

Just changing every 90 days [or < 4k] does the trick after all what's 150 gallons of oil in 18 years compared to 17,300 gallons of gasoline.

 

Sorry for the lack of updates, I'm stopped driving the Z so much...

Doing oil change today, got 7000 miles on the german castrol 0w30.

 

I havent' been driving my Z as much. There is an Auto X event this weekend, so that will be on the oil. Still got another 1-2 k to drive before changing it out again.

 

If it has the SAE symbol on it, it's O.K.--regardless of the brand. Keeping a
punctual change schedule, with a high quality filter is essential to keep all
that friction/carbon formation/contaminants under check, guys. MOBIL1 oil &
filters have never let me down. Second choice: Pennzoil Platinum. But I really
don't worry; they're all approved by the SAE. Been using M1 since the early
'90s, no problemo.

 

Mods can we get a sticky for this thread.....

 

@tsabrale:

They´ve written in their last report, that your engine "matures past-break-in"... so in that case 7,000 miles are necessary to completely break-in the HR?

What about the oil consumption of your car? I expect the consumption decreases during break-in until it finally stops. Could you tell me s.th. about your engine´s values of oil consumption. thx


Mike

 

Hi Mike,

Actually, it will probably take more than 7k for a full break in. More like 10+ k I imagine. I put this oil in right at 1250, the point Nissan states is the minimum time for break in. If you read both reports, you will notice a drastic drop in break in materials. This means 1-3 more oil changes, the car will finally truly be broken in. (Note: I am using 100% Synthetic Oil an my engine is breakin in with no problems.)

As far as oil consumption, I don't have any issues. The AMSOIL has been a great oil for this car. I may change it up toe Castol 0-30 German oil since it's a little thicker and thus handle duties of Track Days and AutoX better.

 

KmanZ, YOU ARE A LIFE-SAVER--for engines, that is! That Doctor's lessons are i-n-c-r-e-d-i-b-l-e!!! I learned A LOT, & found out in the process that I've
been on the right track all along. Back in the eighties, I went from straight 40 dino' oil, to straight 30 dino'; in the nineties, I went from straight dino 30, to synth' 10W-30. Next--and thanks to YOU, dude--I'll be getting 5W-30 synth' oil--per the manual!!! You & that M.D. make my day! THANK YOU!!!
____________________________________________________________ _____
'04 Touring Coupe/13k!/$22k!!!--NO feathering issues at 14k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Sibble: forget about "Lucas" stabilizer! Go to Kmanz's post on last page, & check out that Doctor's lifelong study on engine oils!!! You'll be SURPRISED, to
say the least! Good luck!