hr test pipe non fouler fix
Well.. 150 miles with the steel wool and the SES light came back on.. So this time I decided to clear the code and Use heat wrap which is wrapped around headers and such.. Rolled it up so it fit snug in my J pipe and we wil see what happens.. PS Steel wool is flammable.
Last edited by NY350zG; Jun 28, 2009 at 06:23 PM.
Yea so F^&* the HR's o2 Sensors.. I cannot get this light to dissapear. Ive tried Steel wool and Heat Wrap in my GTM test pipes and NOTHING has worked. I think I'm going to need to run a little rich and put up with this damn light untill I have the money to afford UPREV.
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From: MARION, myrtle beach area SC
Yea so F^&* the HR's o2 Sensors.. I cannot get this light to dissapear. Ive tried Steel wool and Heat Wrap in my GTM test pipes and NOTHING has worked. I think I'm going to need to run a little rich and put up with this damn light untill I have the money to afford UPREV.
Im running the stock exhaust.. :/ It sounds raspy and I get a "hissing" or a semi like rattling noise that I believe is comming from the stock Y pipe. I know I am going to purchase the HKS hi-power true dual set up but I had plans with my money before I went to do this.
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Just ordered the Greddy Se exhaust and turboxs tps. Should I try the wool first or the first page non-foulers the thread started with? Anybody else have the Turboxs TPs?
Just ordered the Greddy Se exhaust and turboxs tps. Should I try the wool first or the first page non-foulers the thread started with? Anybody else have the Turboxs TPs?
CHange out the metal gaskets like I told you already theres 3 sets, 1 behind each cat and 1 between the y-pipe and midpipe. Make sure you stuff the **** out of the O2 bungs. I cant believe your having this much trouble with the GTM TP's, guess those J-tubes are no good.
And Jiggy I will swap out the gaskets Soon but as far as the light.. I just gotta deal with it.
Hey guys! Finally installed the turbo xs test pipes on the HR!
Added foulers... check engine came on after 70 or 80 miles..
So I reset battery.. since the shop didn't and so far no check engine yet!
Currently Im letting the older bro drive car today due to (2) stupid tickets!
No Front License plate! (even thought it was in the dash)
Tints (even though there are light as hell 40% rear, 30% sides)!!
Added foulers... check engine came on after 70 or 80 miles..
So I reset battery.. since the shop didn't and so far no check engine yet!
Currently Im letting the older bro drive car today due to (2) stupid tickets!
No Front License plate! (even thought it was in the dash)
Tints (even though there are light as hell 40% rear, 30% sides)!!
Interesting thing that happened to my CEL:
Well I received the steel wool about a month ago and I stuffed my O2 bungs. Well about 200 miles later my CEL came back on. BUT....I did not reset it, I just left it on. So about 1 week of driving with it on, one day I started my car and the CEL was randomly gone. Ever since then I have driven about 1k miles and it never came back!
I bet it has something to do with the steel wool.
Well I received the steel wool about a month ago and I stuffed my O2 bungs. Well about 200 miles later my CEL came back on. BUT....I did not reset it, I just left it on. So about 1 week of driving with it on, one day I started my car and the CEL was randomly gone. Ever since then I have driven about 1k miles and it never came back!
I bet it has something to do with the steel wool.
My check engine just came back on after 75 miles of driving. I plan to reset the ecu this time vs. disconnecting + battery terminal. Also I have not done the steel wool part yet.. Any advise would be helpful...
Thanks
Mo
Thanks
Mo
75 miles is dead on for a complete drive cycle. Which means the 2nd O2 hasnt seen the proper conditions that a catalyst would provide.
Stuff it.



