jeremy tibbs where are you for us hr guys?
#41
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How much would a sc kit cost to be fabricated on the HR. I'm thinking it would cost more to do a custom sc kit than to just get the TT kits that are out now.
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so if there are a bunch of hr's with 500whp for about a year now, i think an sc setup to the tune of 380-400 whp should be plenty reliable on the stock block.
#43
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well so far, the hr has been holding up pretty good under boost. there are a bunch of stock block 500 whp setups running around. the only one i heard of that had problems is that one from forged with the retarded (more or less) customer.
so if there are a bunch of hr's with 500whp for about a year now, i think an sc setup to the tune of 380-400 whp should be plenty reliable on the stock block.
so if there are a bunch of hr's with 500whp for about a year now, i think an sc setup to the tune of 380-400 whp should be plenty reliable on the stock block.
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i completely agree with you. if i were doing this, i'd make sure i'd have enough to rebuild my engine if the worse should happen, but given the hr's track record so far, i'd start with a stock block and build it only if i blew it...
#45
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Let me clarify, I have no horse in the race - I want to build an E36 325 track *****, my 10 grand for FI would go to that well before I'll be boosting my Z.
That said, rotrex will make more power than most, HKS as well. ASA is going to make more mid range torque (in a centrifugal) and close to the same top end. Vortech can make a ton once its spinning, but rotrex is more efficient.
And superchargers can be almost the same as turbos, take a low spooling twin turbo car, run it against a supercharged car starting at 90 in 4th gear, see how close it is (equal power levels). The supercharger is reaching its peak efficiency as the turbo's run out of air. It puts things in nice perspective.
I have two friends, very similar cars, one has a turbo (T3/T4 hybrid 60 trim intake, forget the exhaust), one a C38-71. The turbo is running 11 psi, the supercharger 14.5, they are almost dead nuts even up top. The turbo is faster at low speeds, but on a track it would be close.
The Z isn't able to hold 500 lb.ft. of torque coming out of every corner. If you are driving a car right you can't go from 250-500 (turbo's spooling) and just magically keep a hold of it. It means later return to throttle, which means you are handicapped....superchargers can be faster in that environment.
That said, rotrex will make more power than most, HKS as well. ASA is going to make more mid range torque (in a centrifugal) and close to the same top end. Vortech can make a ton once its spinning, but rotrex is more efficient.
And superchargers can be almost the same as turbos, take a low spooling twin turbo car, run it against a supercharged car starting at 90 in 4th gear, see how close it is (equal power levels). The supercharger is reaching its peak efficiency as the turbo's run out of air. It puts things in nice perspective.
I have two friends, very similar cars, one has a turbo (T3/T4 hybrid 60 trim intake, forget the exhaust), one a C38-71. The turbo is running 11 psi, the supercharger 14.5, they are almost dead nuts even up top. The turbo is faster at low speeds, but on a track it would be close.
The Z isn't able to hold 500 lb.ft. of torque coming out of every corner. If you are driving a car right you can't go from 250-500 (turbo's spooling) and just magically keep a hold of it. It means later return to throttle, which means you are handicapped....superchargers can be faster in that environment.
#46
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And superchargers can be almost the same as turbos, take a low spooling twin turbo car, run it against a supercharged car starting at 90 in 4th gear, see how close it is (equal power levels). The supercharger is reaching its peak efficiency as the turbo's run out of air. It puts things in nice perspective.
I have two friends, very similar cars, one has a turbo (T3/T4 hybrid 60 trim intake, forget the exhaust), one a C38-71. The turbo is running 11 psi, the supercharger 14.5, they are almost dead nuts even up top. The turbo is faster at low speeds, but on a track it would be close.
The Z isn't able to hold 500 lb.ft. of torque coming out of every corner. If you are driving a car right you can't go from 250-500 (turbo's spooling) and just magically keep a hold of it. It means later return to throttle, which means you are handicapped....superchargers can be faster in that environment.
#47
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not everyone likes running r comp's or slicks, i prefer to run my car in one trim everywhere, and living in seattle, r comp's aren't an option cause of the rain. so i don't want monster power. something like 380-400 whp would be perfect for me. i can get there with a supercharger (must be a rotrex type, no vortech, if anybody ever makes a kit) and save a couple grand in the process. so that's what i would get. not everyone wants a tt'd car, different strokes for different folks...
if my goal was to build a highway monster, then i'd want a tt'd z, but thats not what i want, i prefer something more balanced...
if my goal was to build a highway monster, then i'd want a tt'd z, but thats not what i want, i prefer something more balanced...
#48
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not everyone likes running r comp's or slicks, i prefer to run my car in one trim everywhere, and living in seattle, r comp's aren't an option cause of the rain. so i don't want monster power. something like 380-400 whp would be perfect for me. i can get there with a supercharger (must be a rotrex type, no vortech, if anybody ever makes a kit) and save a couple grand in the process. so that's what i would get. not everyone wants a tt'd car, different strokes for different folks...
if my goal was to build a highway monster, then i'd want a tt'd z, but thats not what i want, i prefer something more balanced...
if my goal was to build a highway monster, then i'd want a tt'd z, but thats not what i want, i prefer something more balanced...
#49
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i'm not saying that it doesn't have any power down low, i'm more on the point that it has to much power down low for what i want from my car on street tires...
i just said the hwy thing cause a tt'd z would be better for that purpose then an sc'd one
i just said the hwy thing cause a tt'd z would be better for that purpose then an sc'd one
Last edited by warmmilk; 04-28-2009 at 05:04 PM.
#50
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why is everyone under this big myth that TT's are highway monsters.. my greddy was full boost at 3250 RPMS and pulled all the way to redline.. yes its a monster on the highway.. but it will kick *** down low too.. you guys make it sound like some Single Turbo Supra that has 300 whp at 4000 RPMS and then 600 whp at 5500 RPMS
The 18g Greddy kit, 500 series JWT (even 700bb), and some of the GTM kits are all at full boost way below where you would operate on a track.
#51
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when i had a Nismo Intake and Nismo Exhaust and first got my Z i was losing control going around corners.. now at 580 whp i can kick the rear end out and control it at will.. i can do whatever the hell i want.. all it takes is getting used to
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like i said, different strokes for different folks...
i know i can get used to the power, i just don't want that much. i don't find it all that fun when i hit the gas for 0.7 seconds and i'm going handcuffs speed...
i know i can get used to the power, i just don't want that much. i don't find it all that fun when i hit the gas for 0.7 seconds and i'm going handcuffs speed...
#53
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i've told people for the last 4 years about buying an SC over a TT.. i would say about 10 out of 15 of them have sold their SC's and went TT and never looked back..
the problem with power is.. once you get it.. its addictive.. its better to start with alot of headroom.. that way you can upgrade down the road.. my GreddyTT's are rated to 700whp and right now i'm pissed the GTM Kit wasn't available when i was shopping around.. because i would love to go higher than 700whp
#54
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Originally Posted by doug
i've told people for the last 4 years about buying an SC over a TT.. i would say about 10 out of 15 of them have sold their SC's and went TT and never looked back..
the problem with power is.. once you get it.. its addictive.. its better to start with alot of headroom.. that way you can upgrade down the road.. my GreddyTT's are rated to 700whp and right now i'm pissed the GTM Kit wasn't available when i was shopping around.. because i would love to go higher than 700whp
the problem with power is.. once you get it.. its addictive.. its better to start with alot of headroom.. that way you can upgrade down the road.. my GreddyTT's are rated to 700whp and right now i'm pissed the GTM Kit wasn't available when i was shopping around.. because i would love to go higher than 700whp
it like someone buying a 911 gt3 rather than a gt2, the gt2 is a monster, but the gt3 is a more balanced car. i know the gt2 is faster in a straight line and on a road coarse (most road coarses), but some people just prefer a gt3. its the same principle here. if i could get my car upto 380 or so whp (and keep it decently docile, i don't want retarded monster cams) without fi, i wouldn't even bother with fi. i may not even go fi even if i don't get over 310 whp na... its all personal preference
#55
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like i said before, different strokes for different folks. if i wanted a monster power car, i prolly would have bought a supra, but i don't, i want a balanced sports car, and a tt'd 500+ whp z on street tires isn't all that balanced, imo, its to much power.
it like someone buying a 911 gt3 rather than a gt2, the gt2 is a monster, but the gt3 is a more balanced car. i know the gt2 is faster in a straight line and on a road coarse (most road coarses), but some people just prefer a gt3. its the same principle here. if i could get my car upto 380 or so whp (and keep it decently docile, i don't want retarded monster cams) without fi, i wouldn't even bother with fi. i may not even go fi even if i don't get over 310 whp na... its all personal preference
it like someone buying a 911 gt3 rather than a gt2, the gt2 is a monster, but the gt3 is a more balanced car. i know the gt2 is faster in a straight line and on a road coarse (most road coarses), but some people just prefer a gt3. its the same principle here. if i could get my car upto 380 or so whp (and keep it decently docile, i don't want retarded monster cams) without fi, i wouldn't even bother with fi. i may not even go fi even if i don't get over 310 whp na... its all personal preference
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Why has someone not done a single turbo setup? You could produce a product that is just as high quality as any of these twin systems that would perform nearly as well and it would cost quite a bit less. Dual throttle bodies do not necessitate twin turbos. A single turbo setup could be just inexpensive enough to convince some guys that don't want to spend 10 grand on a turbo kit, to buy.