on the HR engine w/o tapping the oil pan or putting 3 sandwich plates (I need one for the oil cooler and the mocal with thermostat looks like doesn't have a 1/8 ntp hole for the sensor)

and about the water... on the hoses going to the radiator... upper or lower? which one comes from the engine?.

thanks

 

I just installed an oil temp sensor & gauge. I also have an oil cooler + sandwich plate, and I did not want to install an oil pan spacer or a larger oil pan.

I installed the sensor into the line coming OUT of the sandwich plate adapter going TO the oil cooler (so it reads the hotter oil temperature). I don't know the exact names for the parts I used, I'll try to describe it. (I have the Stillen oil cooler kit).

Before, there was a blue 90-degree elbow coming out of the sandwich plate, and the oil cooler hose attached to it. This elbow is "male" on both ends (and the hose end was female). (There are two of these, one going IN the sandwich plate, and one going OUT). On the OUT side, I removed this blue elbow. I replaced it with a different elbow that had a female on the end where it used to have a male (I got this from home depot). Then I bought a blue (anodized) "T" fitting. One end goes into the new elbow I just described, the other end goes to the original oil cooler hose. And into the "T" part is where I installed the actual sensor. My sensor has 1/8 PT threads, so I also had to buy a little blue "cap" piece, which I drilled & tapped for 1/8 PT, using a 1/8 PT tap.

This probably doesn't give a very clear picture of *exactly* what I did. All this was way over my head, and I basically got advice from people & friends at local performance shops. Jared at Uprev did the drilling & tapping for me, and I did the rest of the install. I was sure to use thread sealant in the places where I should, and I let it dry for 24 hours before putting oil back in the engine & starting it up. (I think a few hours is sufficient though).

Send me an email or call me if you need more exact information on these parts. All the various parts only cost me like $35 or $40, maybe less.

 

Oh and for the radiator / coolant lines, to determine which is in/out, you can either (1) check the service manual, or (2) run the engine, and feel which one gets hotter first. This is probably the one going IN to the radiator.

 

yep. those are the same solution proposed by my tech. (T deviations)...
but all of them are after the thermostats (both water and oil) so...
you really don't see anything when is less than 180F. and you can't check if the thermostat is broken (even if after 5/6 laps and doesn't go over 180 should be a pretty nice indicator)